1992 Jeep Wrangler YJ tub swap question

ClydesdaleKevin · January 28, 2013, 11:14 AM

Now, a totally off topic question about our 1992 Jeep Wrangler YJ.

I know this is an RV forum, but there is such a diverse amount of mechanical knowledge here among the members, I figured I'd shoot out the question here.

Since its our tow vehicle, I figured the General board would be the best place to ask this question.

Anyone have any experience with Jeep Wrangler YJs?

The reason I'm asking is that the rear axle shock mounts are rusting away (one is broken), and it has significant frame rust that will have to be welded and repaired.

That said, I've been looking on Craigslist Phoenix, and I can get a similar year YJ with a perfect rust free Arizona frame (there are several listed), already with lift kits, big expensive tires and rims, etc., for less than 2000 bucks! Now, for that price, most of them listed have really banged up and dented bodies, or a blown motor or transmission, or both.

What I'm asking is...how hard is it to change out the tub (body) on a Jeep YJ? Mechanically and tub wise, ours is perfect, even the interior. We have less than 67K on the 4.0 inline 6 engine and drivetrain...on the whole Jeep actually.

My plan would be to buy one of these lifted project Jeeps, then remove the tub, put my engine and transfer case and transmission in the clean AZ frame, then remove the tub from my Jeep, interior and all, and install it on the donor frame.

I know what is involved in the engine and transmission swap, but how hard is it to remove the tub and swap them? Anyone ever do this before? Anything I should look out for?

This would save me a ton of money down the road. Just repairing my frame and rear shock mounts would cost me almost 2 grand...and then when I eventually want to lift it, call it at least another grand, then a grand in rims and more in tires.

Thanks!

Kev

HandyDan · January 28, 2013, 12:30 PM

My son had a YJ that he put a 3" lift kit on. Why, I don't know, because it just made it top heavy and leaned a lot on corners. Anyway, if I remember right there were only 6 bolts holding the tub onto the frame. You just remove those bolts, disconnect all the wires and lift the body. If you have a means of lifting the tub, I wouldn't think it would be too hard to do. It might help if you removed the hard top. Less weight to lift and easier access to things. The YJ is a very simple vehicle to work on. My son traded his for a new TJ which is a whole different animal.

HandyDan · January 28, 2013, 12:36 PM

Kevin, I found this on a JeepForum.com

By: 1998 XJ Cherokee

Tub Removal Instructions

I've seen a few posts and been asked about taking the yj tub off, so instead of replying to individual posts, i'll post it here! This is assuming that the jeep was running and driving. some steps can be skipped (removing the grill for example) but this is the way i have removed mine, twice last year......

also, i had a 5 speed, so i do not know the way to remove the gear shifter from an auto, if you even need to??
here goes.....

Rremove the hood, and support rods. disconnecting the wire for the under hood light.
Remove the header tanks on the driver side inner fender for the rad overflow and washer fluid. take the hose off the rad and keep it with the header tank. unplug the 2 plugs that go down to the washer tank, and disconnect the hoses. you can normally tie the hoses together and keep from losing the fluid.mark the hoses! 1 is front and the other for a rear wash/wipe.
Remove the fender/grill lights and unplug all light connections.
the wiring will end at the passenger side fender light. pull the wiring from that point, thru the square hole in the grill, and feed it all back around in front of the rad, up thru the driver side hole, and back to the bulkhead plug.
Unplug the ecm and the big plug on the bulkhead that goes to the pdc and the lights. rest these plugs on the motor. unplug the connector that goes thru the firewall. the plug itself is under the dash. put it ontop of the motor
Reach under the speedo, unplug the speedo cable if equiped. be carefull not to break the plastic, you need to push in on the 2 sides and it will come out.
Remove the driver side fender. the bolts run down the edge of the fender to the tub, there are 4 i think, plus 2 support braces. The bolts to the grill are inside the outer fender at the front.6 i think and a brace, all 1/2" heads.once all bolts are out, raise and remove the fender
Remove the battery, battery tray, and unclip the pdc and slide it forwards toward the motor. same bolts for the passenger side fender. after the bolts are out, lift and remove.
Unclip all the wires that are secured to the bulkhead/firewall. unplug all sensors that are mounted there, labeling the plugs and wires. unscrew the ground wires.
Check that all cables/wires are free of the firewall and bulkhead
The grill has 1 big bolt at the bottom, in the center. unbolt that and lift off the grill/rad (after draining the rad/tranny cooler if used and removing the hoses from the motor...)
thats the front end taken care of!
Unbolt the steering joint at the top joint, freeing the steering wheel.
Under the dash, unclip the clutch and brake pedals.
Unbolt the brake booster assembly (4 bolts) and either remove or support so not to break or damage the lines. the master cyl and prop valve will stay with the booster.
Unbolt the clutch cylinder from the bulkhead and support.
Undo the throttle cable from the pedal and pull thru the hole in the firewall.
Undo the emergency brake cable from the pedal and pull thru the hole in the floor.
Under the driver side rear corner, disconnect the fuel fillerhose and vent from the tank.
Unplug the electrical connector for the tank.
Remove all exhaust hangers from the underside of the tub
If you have an aftermarket bumper that has a back up light, remove the wires to it.
Remove the roll bar inside the tub, and of course the doors. (that is a lot of weight to pick up!)
Remove the gearstick on a manual tranny. the haynes/clymer manual will detail this step.
Remove the rubber boot, and the 2 metal plates that are fastened to the floor by the gear shifters.
Get the biggest impact gun you can get, and remove the body mount bolts!!!!
there are 3 pairs running down the side of the frame rails.
1 pair is under the tub, above the front of the fuel tank.
the 2 rear ones are at the sides of the rear bumper. 3/4" head bolts if i remember right. the bolts are 2 or 3 different sizes, so remember where they go!!!
double check all lines and cables under the tub, if one or two are ziptied to the tub, cut the ties.
Crawl all over the tub, front, under, and back to make sure everything is undone.
Get 3 good friends and each pick a corner! the front is by far the heaviest!!
all 4 of you lift straight up, then walk back towards the rear of the jeep and put the tub down after it has cleared the rear end. this is a lot easier than trying to lift it over the motor and all the wires etc. the fuel filler lines should be on the tub, so be carefull not to damage them. you can remove the lines altogether, but there is no real need.
i think that about covers it! if i forgot something, chime in and correct me.
timewise, the 1st time will take @a day from start to finish.
i would highly recommend new body mounts and bolts.
if you hav a major issue with a body mount bolt. i would impact the snot out of it and fix it when the tub is off. you can stand the tub on its side on some old carpet and get to the bottom of it pretty easy.
good luck, may the force be with you!!

Oz · January 28, 2013, 12:52 PM

Wow... $20 for six months "premium" membership to that forum and they offer less than we have have here to our (free) Charter members! $200 for Lifetime member and it's only $20 - $25 here?!

Hm? I must be charging waaaaay too little for Full & Life Memberships - LOL!

HandyDan · January 28, 2013, 06:52 PM

Uh-Oh! I may have opened up a box I should have left alone. Oh well, we certainly enjoy the bargain.

Here's a picture from that site. I never even thought about picking up a tub like this:

ClydesdaleKevin · January 28, 2013, 09:10 PM

Thanks Dan! I'm actually a member of that site (freebee membership) and I'm so spoiled by this site that I rarely go there...lol!

And yep Mark...membership here is PRICELESS!

I think I can handle the project! And swapping the engine and transmission and transfer case out with the tub off will be a breeze!

I was actually hoping you could take the tub off without removing the dash and seat...looks like you can do it without removing the roll bar either! I'm getting pretty excited! Lifted Jeep with big tires and a solid rust free frame...with the same nice body, interior, and low mileage drivetrain...and the same VIN number

...looks like something I'm gonna do while we are here! Might not get done until the show ends, but it looks doable!

Thanks again Dan!

Kev

Oz · January 29, 2013, 09:54 AM

Is that a steel body or fiberglass? It's a little hard for me to tell but it looks like steel. Would a standard engine hoist work?

P.S. I edited the instructions a bit for easier reading.

DaveVA78Chieftain · January 29, 2013, 04:35 PM

Ahhh, the deafening sound of those big mud tires singing to you as run the interstate. Something to think about.

Dave

HandyDan · January 29, 2013, 05:37 PM

Good editing! Much easier to read, not that I have a Jeep anymore. Wish I had it back.

I think it is steel. The tub itself shouldn't be too heavy. The instructions said 4 guys could lift it.

I remember the sound of big tires on my son's TJ. In my opinion, he took a really nice Jeep and ruined it.

Oz · January 29, 2013, 07:37 PM

I had a CJ 5 with straight 6, 3 speed. It sure was one of my most fun rides.

ClydesdaleKevin · January 30, 2013, 09:41 AM

Unless replaced by aftermarket (yep, there were aftermarket fiberglass tubs you could buy back in the day), the tubs were and are steel. That's why the author of that post suggests removing the roll bar, doors, etc. to lighten up so 4 guys can lift the tub off the frame.

I like the old CJs...but I'm having enough trouble getting Patti to like the YJ...lol!

Kev