wiring up remote start

[cosmic]

I bought a generator for my 75 brave as it did not have one when I bought it. the one I bought is a Onan 4.0 BF-3CR speck 1600b from 1977

everything is hooked up and working except the remote switch. It is hooked up at the switch in the dash.(except the green wire. it was hanging there in mid air)
On the genny side I need to hook up the coloured wires. there are numbers on the genny 1 2 3 5 6
I have the manual but it is Chinese to me and doesn't say anything about colour of wires.
Does anyone know what colour wire goes to which number.

here are some pics.

[cosmic]

pics of switch in dash

[cosmic]

is their a electrical guy or girl that can read this.
here is what im thinking 2 is white 1 is yellow 3 is orange and blue and red are the two fuses on each side? thinking blue would be 6 and 5 is red.

but that's just a complete guess. from looking at the dash switch

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

From: http://www.justanswer.com/small-engine/3q6y7-need-know-wire-id-wires-remote-start-onan.html

I can give you the info you need, but you will have to do the leg work.
Not all manufacturers used the same color wiring (the wiring is from the coach manufacturer, not Onan.

The remote switch should have 5 terminals on it - 3 on one side, and 2 on the other. The 3 terminals are the start/stop functions.

The 2 terminals are for the light in the switch.

One of these terminals is internally connected to the center pin of the 3 terminal side. This is the ground for the light, and you will need to use an ohmmeter to determine which. The other is the hot terminal, the green wire will go here.

On the right side of the control box is your 6-pin remote connector.
The pins are numbered 1-6, from top to bottom.
Pin #1 (top) is the common ground - it will go to the center terminal of the remote switch (I assume this is the brown wire).
Pin #2 is the stop wire, it will go to the stop terminal of the remote switch (top if the switch is mounted vertically, right if it is mounted horizontally). (Most likely the blue wire).
Pin #3 is the start switch. It will go to the start terminal of the remote switch (bottom if vertical, left if horizontal).
Pin #6 is for the hour meter or the light in the switch. It will go to the hour meter or the light terminal of the switch.

You will need to logically match your wire colors up to your set up as I just pulled this direcltly from that description.  THe pin numbers an their function are the important part.

Dave

[cosmic]

once again dave. Thank you

it was a little tough in the dark but I got it. I only hooked up the  white yellow and orange on the one side of the terminal. Bingo starts, runs and stops. that's all I need.
because the light doesn't come on doesn't concern me in the least. I most certainly can tell that the genny is running. It shakes the hole rig.
That's a matter of tuning it and adjusting points and what not to dial it in.
But YEHAAA. I got a fully functioning Generator with sliding tray (thanks TJ) and remote start.

[ClydesdaleKevin]

Awesome job, Cosmic!!!



Kev

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

Like Keven said!   

Dave

[tiinytina]

question.. found my switch on the dash "works fine" IF my coach batteries are at FULL power but not at anything less... starts from switch on genny regardless.....  new switch a bit over a year ago.  If battery is not full up, the guage for battery that is on the genny dash panel  reads full but pressing the switch makes it drop to nothing and the switch then does nothing...  won't even cut genny off..  Trickle charged my winter depleted new last fall batteries and switch worked fine.... Reading half charge on panel prior to charging started genny from switch on genny... started and ran.... light on dash switch not lighted, no battery reading from dash genny panel...

When I put in the new switch about 1.5 yrs ago.. I unwired the old one as I wired the new one so all wires placed on terminals in same order etc.

Tina

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

Tina,
The Start/Stop switch (generator or remote) only provides a path to ground so that either a relay is energized (K4 in yours) to start the unit or the voltage going to another relay is short circuited (K3 run relay is de-energized in yours) resulting in the unit shutting down.  While it is implemented a little differently in your BGE Spec F unit (Spec F was the last points and condenser based BGE model; spec G is electronic ignition), the concept is the same.  At the remote start switch, the center pin on the 3 pin side is the common pin that leads back to battery ground.  The center pin of the remote switch should be connected to P2-1 (pin 1) on J2 of your A1 control board.  Like Cosmi did above, it only takes 3 wires to make the stop / start function work.  The other 2 wires are used for the light and run time meter.  The BGE Spec F circuit diagram is on page 8-4 of 965-0528.  That drawing can be a bit confusing because the left side represents point to point cable connections.  The right side is the actual schematic.  The remote switch is shown at the bottom of schematic as A2,3 with the Start/stop switch indicated by SP (Stop) and ST (Start).
Either you have some wires crossed or you have a bad connection some place as the remote switch is simply connected in parallel to the generator Start/Stop switch.

Dave