Welder recommendations

Started by ClydesdaleKevin, April 22, 2013, 10:54 PM

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ClydesdaleKevin

Plan on getting an arc welder for some frame work on the Jeep, and any future welding on the RV.

I was a very good hand with an arc welder in high school...and I retain things well.

Question though.  After a lot of research it seems that for any thick metal you need a 220 volt arc welder.  I can figure out a way to make a wire plug adapter for the genny if I have to to make its two outputs equal 220 volts...but is there another option?

Are there any 120 volt options that will weld thicker steel, or do I have to figure out a wiring plug adapter for the genny? 

Thanks!

Kev
Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

ibdilbert01

How about a mig?   


Some of the heavier duty 120v migs claim they can do 1/4" on a single pass.   Anything thicker just do more passes.   


Constipated People Don't Give a crap!

DonD

I would go (and did) with MIG. Can't do MIG on windy days outdoors but this choice allows the use of flux core for that, deeper penetration too (a bit messy). High rise bldgs are flux core welded.
Read up, study, learn.

I bought a Hobart 140 and am very pleased with the choice. You do know these things are heavy right? When I go wheeling out of the RV, I bring a little HF (under 10lbs) invertor arc welder (80a) for quck repairs. Both can handle 1/4" with proper technique..Practice !!! Cut the welds and check for penetration etc.  I would not weld YOUR roll cage with the 140, but I would mine.   ;)

Prep is the key to good welds..CLEAN, shiney metal, grind a nice V and reasonably tight fit.

In my MH I carry:
The 80 stick welder
Lots of sticks
Auto helmet
Hammer/brush
Angle grinder w/cut off and grinding wheels
A 'C' clamp
Vice grips
Gloves

Makin' sparks in AZ,
Don and Mary
2000 TC1000 Bluebird bus conv.

ClydesdaleKevin

Thanks guys.  So a MIG uses inert gas, right?  Does it use a canister of some kind?  I've used a gasless wire feed welder before and it was next to useless on thicker metal.

Kev
Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

DonD

If you go MIG, yes a cylinder with (usually) a mix of argon and co2. In your case I would get the bottle from a nationwide welding supply chain so you can refill away where you travel. The MIG machine can use solid core (with gas) or flux core (no gas).

Flux core wire welding uses no gas and I was serious when I said skyscrapers are welded with flux core now...VERY thick steel. Many passes, excellent depth.

If you use solid wire with no gas you will get crappy welds.
Don and Mary
2000 TC1000 Bluebird bus conv.

DaveVA78Chieftain

I do odd job welding around here (lawn mower repair, exhaust welding, etc.) but would only be classified as a beginner.  I have tried both stick and flux core MIG.  I by far prefer the MIG to stick even as a beginner.  Much easier to control.   Make sure you use quality wire though.  The Hobart 140 is 115AC but rated for 1/4" single pass.  As others said, clean (grinder) and many passes for thicker steel.  An auto-darkning helment is also well worth the investment.

Dave
[move][/move]


jkilbert

I have a 110v MIG that I bought from Tractor Supply several years ago that is good for light stuff. It will handle flux core or solid/gas wire. I ran it off my genny when we put Glenn and Tammy's new step on and it did well. Its rated up to 1/4 in thickness but you need multiple passes and to bevel grind the the area to be welded.
Greetings from the steel buckle of the rust belt