Faded Headlight lenses? Crest(c) Cavity Fighter(c)

[Stripe]

So, this afternoon, I set out to debunk using toothpaste as a way to clear up faded headlight lenses.  I failed.  While this method was not able to restore the lens to factory new, it did in fact, clear up the lenses, significantly.
Here are the steps I used.

1: Acquire a tube of toothpaste, (WITHOUT the significant other finding out) I used hers, it was tricky, but I lived...
2: Clean the lens of debris and dirt.
3: Apply a lengthy bead of paste.  I did an oval with overlapping ends. (I know what it looks like, but I swear that was pure coincidence.)
4: Using a dry cloth (I used one of my millions of army t-shirts given me during my Afghan tour), rub the toothpaste in using circular motions at
    first, then side to side as the paste dries.
5: Once the paste is dried, wipe it all off with a dry cloth. (for me it was just another dry spot on the same Tee)
6: Using a damp cloth, wipe the remaining toothpaste off the lens.
7: Repeat number 6 one more time.
8: Get a better, brighter photo of Bigfoot crossing the road at night whilst driving around Mt. Rainier at night!

[M & J]

I heard of using toothpaste before on plastic. Wonder how it works on restoring clear coat?

[Stripe]

Glad you asked, I did try it on a spot that was missing clearcoat, but didn't do so good.  The clearcoat that is STILL on the car still looks shiny with the exception of the bits that are flaking off, so I did not try it on those parts.

[LJ-TJ]

   
• stacey david's gearz headlight restoration

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5rbyPLzQSXY

[DonD]

I wash and dry then slather on some Mop and Glow!

[Stripe]

Hmm,  Hm? , mop n glo you say....
That will be another evaluation..

[DonD]

If you have leftover Zepps, that'll work even longer. MG lasts for months depending on how much you wash it. I scrup well with TSP, dry and apply   

[Mytdawg]

I've used the 3M kit with the little buffer pad etc.  They're about $20 or so but they do a pretty good job.  There's about enough to do 2 sets if you're prudent with the goop.  Cheaper than new headlight covers.

Anybody else miss the good old days of plain glass headlights for $8.00 apiece?  One of those things that didn't need fixin'.

Hey, at least you didn't use her toothbrush too!   

[Stripe]

Hey, at least you didn't use her toothbrush too!   

Ummm.. 

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

Are you supposed to use the regular tooth paste, flavored toothpaste, or extra whitening toothpaste?     

[M & J]

Extra brightening Dave.

[Stripe]

Yes, apparently Extra-Whitening does do a better job..

[maxximuss]

try a tube of Autosol metal polish, it will do a better job than toothpaste, something I have used before in the past. A little buffing wheel on a dremel might help too. Haven't tried this yet but I have tossed the idea around of clear coat spray paint, not sure if this would work. something I may do on the weekend seeing I happen to have a old headlamp from a Windstar kicking around and a can of clear. I'll let you know how it works out if I do it.

[Lefty]

I own & run a mobile headlight restoration business. If interested, my website is http://www.seeclearly.jigsy.com/

I don't usually give out my secrets.. but I will in this case.

I first clean the area around the headlamp, and the headlight, with warm soapy water, rinse, and dry. Then I mask off the headlight area so that I do not damage the surrounding paint.
I first wet sand the headlamp with 800 grit wet/dry, wiping dry occasionally to check progress. The headlight is ready for the next step when it has a uniform white appearance with no visible defects.
Then I wet sand it with 1,000 grit, and then with 1,500 grit. After the 1,500 grit, the headlight should be clearing up with just a little cloudiness.
Once the headlight has been wet sanded, I use my buffer and a 3M yellow sponge pad (medium), be sure the sponge pad is slightly wet. I use 3M Machine Polish, applying sparingly, and buff the headlamp at a medium speed (3 on my buffer). After buffing, wipe clean with a soft towel, I prefer microfiber.
After the headlamp is completely clear, I switch to a 3M white sponge pad (soft), and use 3M Finishing Glaze. Again the pad needs to be slightly wet. Apply just a small amount of the finishing glaze, and speed up the buffer slightly (4 on my buffer). Buff until headlight is crystal clear with no haze. Give headlight a final cleaning using a clean dry microfiber towel to remove any remaining residue.
Doing this, the headlights will stay in good condition about 6 months to 8 months before needing a touch up. To make it last longer between touch ups, apply Mothers Pure Carnauba Wax (no abrasives) about once every 3-6 months.


There is nothing you can do to prevent them from yellowing or turning cloudy.. it's a byproduct of acid rain and the abrasives in road spray when driving in bad weather. As well as UV damage from the sun. But, in most cases they can be returned to like new condition with a little time and effort.

[LJ-TJ]

  WOW! Thanks Lefty

[Oz]

Oh heck, there were only maybe one or two per every 50 cars I'd restore the headlights on at the car lot which acutally needed all that sanding!

A power buffer and Plast-X.  5 minutes at most each side for most cars.  Clear as a bell.

Heavy oxydation?  Used a cutting pad with medium compound and then the Plast-X.  Maybe 20 minutes total.

[moonlitcoyote]

HM, Lefty is in Birmingham AL where I just left, guess I cant hire him to do my headlights. Thats too bad.

[Stripe]

So, Crest extra whitening for you then, eh?


Fredric

[Oz]

Most headlights would only need the Crest and rag.  The "fogging" can be light or even appear pretty heavy and it'll work.  All that sanding is only necessary for really, really bad headlights when the lenses have actuallly become eroded.

[Lefty]

The way I do it makes them look like brand new, with no defects or cloudiness. Not like they have been wiped with a rag soaked in armor all. That's why I get paid $60/set if dealers have 5 or more cars done... or $85/set if they have less than 5 cars, or individuals. I have to be able to guarantee high quality results.
I actually carry a few sets of demonstration lights with me with half untouched and the other side restored.. the difference is striking. I also bring headlights that have had the lenses done using various other methods, to show that my way is superior. Including one with a powerball, and also one that's only been done with plastic polish.. and one that's been done with only rubbing compound. There is a difference in clarity, and I do not mean a little bit either.
Compare that to the cost of new ones, and you will see it is a bargain. It also improves the look of a vehicle for sale greatly and increases what they can sell it for.

[Oz]

Nobody is questioning the quality of your work and I can attest that your method is the best method for crystal clear lenses as I use a very similar method if the lenses are that bad with results exactly like yours... but, I believe the point to this is that there are common, inexpensive products and methods which take a whole lot less time and cost a whole lot less than paying to have it done and still provide an accpetable solution to the problem.

So, if Crest gets a thumbs up as a quick way to restore clarity to yellowed, oxydized headlights - Hooooray for the frugal RVer!

[Stripe]

Well, as stated at the beginning of my post, it was a debunking that quickly turned into a review.    And in a pinch, I will definitely use this method.
Just had no idea that this would actually get as many responses as it did and spark a debate. Hm?


Fredric