Cheap ways of Increasing gas mileage and power - Chevy 454 (smog controlled)

Started by Madathlon, June 24, 2013, 10:51 AM

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cncsparky

Quote from: Im_Still-Lefty on June 26, 2013, 12:29 AM

As for removing the smog pump, smog tubes, EGR valve, etc... You can remove the pump, get a shorter belt to bypass it (use string tied around everything routed like you want.. and subtract 1/2" to allow for the automatic tensioner) , then make a plate to go over the hole on the intake after removing the EGR. And install flare tube male plugs in the exhaust manifold where the original A.I.R. tubes were.
Whether it will help or not, or if it may result in drivability problems (usually knocking, pinging, and detonation problems) I can't tell. The problem is, Stock smog heads don't do very well when you remove/bypass all the emission stuff. They usually result in excessive combustion chamber temps, as well as very poor fuel burn characteristics. They actually need the additional fresh air from the smog pump and EGR to help keep the temperatures in check and prevent detonation. Most people who remove the smog stuff, also switch out the heads for an older non-smog , non-EGR style head. And also switch the camshaft for one with more lift/duration. Especially a dual profile cam that has more lift and duration on the exaust than the intake is especially effective on the 454 for maximum torque.


Good advice in your post.  I don't agree with needing different heads, however.  The reason exhaust temps go up is that after removing all the smog junk, the ignition needs changed to take advantage of the modifications.  Setting up the correct distributor curve is what ties all those other modifications together to work best. After reading countless enthusiast forums, seems one of the better curves is to setup a distributor to give about 22 deg advance, all in before 3000 RPM, a vacuum advance can set to 10 degrees and put the distributor in at 10 degrees initial.   If you do an internet search for a guy named 'jim83itasca' , you will find numerous posts on this and other modifications.  Apparently Jim isn't with us anymore and I'm not sure if he ever posted here(he used some different screen names), but he left us a trail of information regarding his research and trials and errors trying to get the most from his class A.  I am currently trying to put his relevant posts into a document for future reference.
-Tom

tiinytina

After all this... mileage is 6.4-8

Banks Torque
magna flow mufflers
edelbrock carb
AIR removed
K&N naked filter assembly installed and removed (cold air driving went to 3.2mpg)
K&N air filter inside OEM filter assembly
new plugs
silicone racing grade wires
all points greased yearly
Air pressure correct in tires
Air bags replaced in front springs
Bilsteins all around
Vacuum hoses checked and replaced as needed
new temp sensor
new radiator fan clutch

EGR is bad and needs replacing

Considered adding Air-tabs as Frank did but Pat thinks they'll look silly on Gone.

I drive 50-55 slow lane unless its really really flat and or down hill and don't push her up hills.
I log each and every tank of gas she has drank.

Tina
Hi from Gone to the Dawgs! 1987 Tiffin Allegro in Deale MD. CW Rocks!!!

Oz

Maybe the Air Tabs would look better if they were pointing in the right direction?

W%
1969 D22, 2 x 1974 D24 Indians, 1977 27' Itasca

Madathlon

tiinytina
After all this... mileage is 6.4-8


K&N naked filter assembly installed and removed (cold air driving went to 3.2mpg)

>>When you say naked, are you talking a snorkless air cleaner assy? If so you WERE NOT GETTING COLD AIR IN. You where sucking even hotter air in from above the hot engine.<<

K&N air filter inside OEM filter assembly

Considered adding Air-tabs as Frank did but Pat thinks they'll look silly on Gone.

>>Never heard of Air tabs<<

I drive 50-55 slow lane unless its really really flat and or down hill and don't push her up hills.
I log each and every tank of gas she has drank.

Tina

Madathlon
   CWO4 Motor Pool Chief (retired)
   Onan Master Installer/Service Tech
   Mercury Marine Golden Wrench
   OMC Master Marine Tech
   ASE Master Tech

ClydesdaleKevin

Do a search here on air tabs.  Supposedly they work by breaking up the turbulance at the rear of the coach, increasing your gas mileage fractionally over long distances.  We are also considering buying them.

And as Mark said, they probably look better installed in the right direction... :)rotflmao :)rotflmao :)rotflmao :)rotflmao :)rotflmao

Kev
Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

Froggy1936

Hey i resemble that remark !! I bought mine from a outlaw outfit in canada  They came without any directions supplied  i??  After installation i noticed the name embossed on them and contacted the manufacturer . Who told me i had them on backwards (He stated they still were about 75% efficent in wind tests) Since i glued and bolted them in place i cannot reverse them . Apperance is not effected either way in any different degree . N:( One thing is for shure you do not get any rain on the rear window wile traveling in the rain And there is not a rageing storm following you in the rain  They did improve MPG slightly (see post on Air Tabs) They are for long trips AKA 1000 mi avg Frank 

(Admin edit)  AirTabs along rear, verticle edge of body.  Note that they should be turned with the "scooped" end facing toward the front of the RV.

[smg id=1041]
"The Journey is the REWARD !"
Member of 15 years. We will always remember you, Frank.

pvoth1111

I checked on airtabs at their website.....then checked ebay.....an alternate search is for....vortex generators....several different types available....

skeptical at best
We call our coach "Charlie Brown"

Stripe

I see a lot of them for cars and honestly, the Vortex Generators are more better used on bigger vehicles such as ours and semi trucks.  They are also gaining popularity among aviation enthusiasts as it has been proven they create a greater safety margin for pilots.  The VGs actually improve stall speeds on small to large aircraft thus allowing for improved recovery time because an aircraft normally stalling at say around 60 knots w/o VGs and that same aircraft WITH VGs now has a stall speed of about 45 knots, thus taking longer for it to stall and giving the pilot a little more time to recover from a stall and also slower landing speeds.
Fredric,
Captain of the Ground Ship "Aluminum Goose"
28' Holiday Rambler Imperial 28

Madathlon

I looked up the Air Tabs, and even the tread where Froggy1936 put his on backwards and still seen improvement. But the Air tab website buy page seems to be gone or down :(


It does seem to be a good idea doe reducing drag.
Madathlon
   CWO4 Motor Pool Chief (retired)
   Onan Master Installer/Service Tech
   Mercury Marine Golden Wrench
   OMC Master Marine Tech
   ASE Master Tech

Elandan2

Rick and Tracy Ellerbeck

Elandan2

Rick and Tracy Ellerbeck

Oz

A note on the AirTabs - To be properly outfitted with the correct number of them, I don't think they fall into the category of "cheap" modifications or changes, which is the focus of this topic to identify.
1969 D22, 2 x 1974 D24 Indians, 1977 27' Itasca

engineer bill

As far as a "cheap and easy" mpg modification. I found that carefully adjusting my parking brake (lever operated/cable actuated/rear brake) yielded an additional 1.2 mpg. Yeah, I was surprised.
"on the road again, I just can't wait to get on the road again..."
thanks to Willie Nelson

legomybago

Never get crap happy with a slap happy pappy

Rickf1985

Along with the magnets on the fuel line to align the gas molecules. those two together should get you another 5 MPG. W% W%
Sorry, 45 years of installing that kind of stuff that people bought for them to try out. 99.9% failure rate.

MotorPro


Rickf1985

There were a couple of things that did gain a tiny bit of mileage. I don't even remember what they were now and I don't think they are still around. This was 30 years ago. The gains were in the quarter MPG range so it was not exactly worth the effort. And that was on a car. If you want more MPG you are going to have to pay for it, no way around it. It is a contradiction of terms but you need more power to get better mileage. The power has to be made more efficiently and your right foot has to be trained how to use that power efficiently. The first part of that equation is the expensive part, the second part is free.