1984 Chevy P30 Sway Bar Bushing Replacement.

Started by Stripe, June 28, 2013, 09:46 PM

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Stripe

Today was spent relaxing and then waiting till the last minute to replace my one missing and three remaining rubber Sway Bar Bushings.

Supplies:  4 x 1 5/16th" Thermal Performance (polyurethane) bushings.  Got them at O'Reilly's. US$40 total.

Tools: 2 x three ton jack stands, 1 x 9/16ths Regular socket and 1 x 9/16ths deep well socket wrench, 1 x 9/16ths" box end wrench, a couple of rags, safety glasses or goggles if you dun need glasses and a pair of work gloves.

First thing I did was lift the front up a bit and and set up jack stands under the chassis for safety. 
Then I set to work..

Here are a few pics of the old bushings..

Starboard side..

A bit oily on this side, fixed the leak though.

Port side.

First thing I did was remove the 9/16ths Bolts and nuts from the center two Bushing brackets.

The drivers side bushing was already missing.

Passenger side..

The bushing is still there.. :)
Then I installed the two center bushings but did not fully tighten them down to be able to move and do the outer bushings.

Passenger side.

Installed in the missing spot.

Drivers' side

Next I did the lower control arm Sway bar bushings.

Here is the drivers' side. you can see how the oil over time softened and swollen the rubber over time.

Now my RV is equipped with Air Bag spring assist, so I had two extra nuts to remove. (no comments from the Peanut Gallery)

This is the passenger side.  Drivers' side is the same.

Here is the passenger side installed..

Drivers' side went on just as easily..

Once all the bushings were in place I tightened all the lock nuts back down, replaced the air hose clamps for my Air Springs and tightened the two nuts, holding them down, in place.

I thought I heard a creak and that the RV was going to collapse...

Yes, that really is me. I wore an old yellow security T-shirt under a very greasy RV..
After that I enjoyed a nice cold blended coffee from Hot ShotZ Sexy Coffee..  Mmm, Cheesecake Latte.....

Anyway, I hope this proves useful to anyone who needs to do this!

Fredric




Fredric,
Captain of the Ground Ship "Aluminum Goose"
28' Holiday Rambler Imperial 28

DaveVA78Chieftain

[move][/move]


M & J

M & J

Stripe

Fredric,
Captain of the Ground Ship "Aluminum Goose"
28' Holiday Rambler Imperial 28

pvoth1111

We call our coach "Charlie Brown"

ClydesdaleKevin

Great job Frederic!  Now I'm going to have to inspect mine to see if they are okay...lol!

Kev
Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

Stripe

Pay close attention to the center and lower control arm bushings on the port side.  Seems to be where anything that leaks from these rigs tends to go..

Can't wait for next weekends' outing (this weekend HAD to be housecleaning and gardening).  Can't wait to see the difference in handling and ride..
Will keep y'all posted!

Fredric
Fredric,
Captain of the Ground Ship "Aluminum Goose"
28' Holiday Rambler Imperial 28

Lefty

The only thing I could add to this thread is that I would lubricate the new bushings prior to installation with SilGlyde (Avail at Napa), or another good waterproof rubber lubricant. This can prevent squeaks, as well as prevent unnecessary wear on the new bushings.
I use it anytime I install any rubber bushings or seals.

If the counterman gives you a blank look.. here's the part number Balkamp  BK-765-1351 (4oz) or BK-765-1346 (8oz)

I reserve the right to reject your reality and substitute my own...

Stripe

I will keep that in mind.  The bushings I used for this are Polyurethane, so I don't expect much squeeking from them..   :)
Fredric,
Captain of the Ground Ship "Aluminum Goose"
28' Holiday Rambler Imperial 28

maxximuss

Lefty is correct, Polyurethane bushings will last longer and are better however they do need a lubricant. SilGlyde would be the best choice for this. In time you may find that they are prone to squeaking. But myself driving a motorhome what is not squeaking and making noise as your driving down the road. Pulling out of the drive way I hear the usual thump from the right side floorboard, next going down the road I hear the stove rubbing on the side of the wall its mounted to........and so on......

pvoth1111

Make sure to address all that oil...find those leaks and killem or the new bushings will suffer..
We call our coach "Charlie Brown"

M & J

I warned him about urethane squeaking and like Maxximuss said, with all the other noises that was the least of his worries.
M & J

Stripe

Most of the oil leaks have already been buttoned down, The major culprit on the drivers side was the valve covers' "non-existent" gasket(PO used Gasket in a Tube).
Next is to replace the oil pan gasket as a preventive measure, just in case any of the PO's used the same "gasket" they used on the valve covers.

I will put lube on the new ones now..  Silglyde, kinda makes one think tho'...  Hm?
Fredric,
Captain of the Ground Ship "Aluminum Goose"
28' Holiday Rambler Imperial 28

GONMAD

Hi! If you are going to replace your pan & rocker cover gaskets, be sure to use the one piece oil pan gasket & steel reinforced rocker cover gaskets. They DON'T leak, & if you have or can get a pair of cast aluminum rocker covers from a swap meet or new from Summitracing. The stock steel covers flex & will seep eventually. Good job on the bushings I'm going to replace them all around just for GP's. Do use lube of some sort as dry they wear prematurely & squeak enough to annoy you continually. Just MY 2 cents C YA! GONMAD

Stripe

Already replaced the valve cover gaskets a while ago and did use the one piece gasket for that.  I will have to look into the cover thing.

As for the oil pan, I did not know they came in more than one piece, so this is good to know.
Thanks for the info..

Fredric
Fredric,
Captain of the Ground Ship "Aluminum Goose"
28' Holiday Rambler Imperial 28

MotorPro


Stripe

AZ has several options though, some of which look like they come in separate parts..  ???
Fredric,
Captain of the Ground Ship "Aluminum Goose"
28' Holiday Rambler Imperial 28

ClydesdaleKevin

Got a part number on those from O'Reilly's Frederic?  Looks like 2 of mine are pretty bad, and I might as well replace the other two while I'm at it.

Kev
Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

Stripe

Kevin, I used two different kits, one was MOOG Part# K6439 (1-5/16ths") front to frame.  The other kit was MOOG Part# K6476 (1-1/4") Front to lower control arm.  Hopefully your bar is close to the same size as mine, maybe bigger because your rig is a bit longer than mine. And by a bit longer I mean seven feet.. :)
I was lucky in that I remembered I had an electronic caliper to measure mine. (I did not have a big enough adjustable wrench)
If you don't have a caliper, but DO have an adjustable wrench that will open up enough, then that is what you can use to measure your bar.

Good luck!  And again, while driving through Ohio, WATCH OUT FOR THOSE SINKHOLES!  I guess if we ever get stuck in one, it will give a whole new meaning to driving a Land Yacht...  :)rotflmao
Fredric,
Captain of the Ground Ship "Aluminum Goose"
28' Holiday Rambler Imperial 28

cncsparky

Fredric, how are the Moog's holding up?  Underneath mine today and measured my sway bar at 1.25", but only measured one spot.  You needed two different sizes on the front bar?  I assumed the whole bar would be the same. 

How about the rear bar, have you done anything with it?  Mine measures 1.75".  I can only find Energy Suspension Poly bushings that size. 
-Tom

Stripe

Moogs are holding up pretty well.  I do believe the inner and outer were in fact different sizes.  As to  the rear, I have done nothing, in fact I don't think I have sways in rear due to mor-ryde.. i??
Fredric,
Captain of the Ground Ship "Aluminum Goose"
28' Holiday Rambler Imperial 28