Starter needs shimmed

[The_Handier_Man1]

From: PhÃ¥rÃ¥oh  (Original Message)
Sent: 1/22/2006 12:49 AM

My starter doesn't engage on the first couple of attempts.  The PO said that it just needs shimmed.  (440-3)  Can I do this myself or how do I go about having it done?

I also have a spare starter that came with the rig but, I can't remember if it was a good one.  Can I bench test it and how?

- Sob



From: daved27c
Sent: 3/8/2004 10:32 PM

Sob;

If your 440 is anything like my old 350 Chevy, all you need to do is loosen the starter bolts and the shim will slide right in. Some of them may require the starter bolts be removed to put the shims in. As far as bench testing the starter. I know that my local NAPA does this for free. Lefty is this true for all NAPA's?

Dave



From: Im-still-Lefty
Sent: 3/9/2004 2:21 AM

Hi Sob, Yes you can either Bench test the starter yourself or have it done for you at almost any parts store for free. To test it yourself, first remove the starter and place it on a stable worksurface. Next, get a good battery and attach a set of jumper cables to it, red on positive and black on negative. Then attach the other end as follows, Black to the starter housing, and (Hold the starter tightly now!!) red to the post on the rear of the solinoid. If the starter is good, it will immedietly start turning and the starter drive will slide out firmly. If it sounds like it is not spinning really fast, it probably is dragging and needs repaired or replaced. If it spins fine but the drive is slow to extend out, or fails to extend at all, you need to replace the drive. Now for shimming, To do this properly you need the starter bolted to the engine, At the proper torque setting for the bolts, with the drive engaged (manually turn the drive backwards to get it to come out) there should be clearance equal to the thickness of a large paperclip straightened out between the top of the drive gears teeth, and the valley of the flywheels/flexplates teeth. If the gap is too close, add a shim between the starter and the mounting pad of the block to increase the gap. If there is too much clearance, add half of a shim to the bolthole furthest  to the block only, this will rotate the starter closer to the engine decreasing the gap. Hope this helps,  Lefty



From: denison
Sent: 3/9/2004 7:17 PM

My original starter had gotten so it never engaged the first time - always took a 2nd try, then it would spin the engine, instead of just spinning itself. I took it apart, lubed everything and put it back in. It was the same or slightly worse; now took 3 tries. So I spent $40 and got a rebuilt one from a place whose business is rebuilding starters for trucks. This one works perfectly.
They are easy to get bolted in slightly cocked. Make really sure you are holding it exactly parallel to the motor before you begin to tighten the bolts. I undid the starter relay so it would pivot out of the way. Made getting the starter out and back in easier. denison



From: Myk-dK
Sent: 3/23/2004 12:45 AM

Starter shimming does not apley to V8 Dodges, You just bolt it tight like Dave said. The starter actualy bolts to the transmision not the engine & the driven ring is on the torque convertor not the flexplate like on a chevy. Aslong as you hold the starter thight & square to the trany you just bolt it tight.

mike



From: Jhoffa_
Sent: 3/23/2004 11:25 AM

I don't know what you mean by "does not engage"

Typically, shimming was used to correct clearance problems (and the resultant "small" wear pattern) on GM products.

If what you're getting is a freewheel when you hit the key, (The starter buzzes and winds up, but the engine doesn't turn) then you've got a bad bendix.

The starter bendix is an overrunning clutch on the gear that contacts the flywheel. It's there for protection, doesn't cost much and is easy to install if you have a little mechanical skill.

If you don't? Then just replace the entire starter. 



From: Jhoffa_
Sent: 3/23/2004 11:27 AM

PS: If the starter worked fine, but suddenly won't engage... It's the bendix.

"Bench Test" the other one with a pair of jumper cables.

Ground the housing with one cable, and apply power with the other cable. OR, take it to Auto Zone and have them test it for you. 



From: Liv42dayOK
Sent: 3/24/2004 12:59 PM

The starter spins but doesn't engage the engine on the first couple of tries so, that fits the description you gave, jhoffa.  I decided to go with a new replacement heavy duty starter.  I'll bench test my spare and see how it works.  I'd like to start with new and keep a good spare, just in case. - Sob



From: Liv42dayOK
Sent: 4/25/2004 10:57 PM

I put a new HD starter in.  It was a tight squeeze getting out the old one and I had to drop the exhaust pipe just a bit for it to clear.  Putting it back in was a real bear trying to get bolts  through the starter, that thin plate that goes between it and the block, and the block!  Mostly because of the unique contortions I had to bend my arm to reach the top one while holding the starter with the other.  I actually had to have 3 new joints surgically implanted in my right arm just so I could reach it (not really,... I only had 2 implants, I couldn't afford the 3rd). 

I spent about an hour, cussing up a storm and effectively removing all the skin off the back of my hand and knuckles, to no avail.  I let the thing hang there on the exhaust pipe and took a crack at it in the morning and... Viola!  Got it on the first attempt.

I it turned over on the first try. 

Now, if I can save up for 2 implants on my other arm, maybe it will be easier to reach all the other things on this oversized 440 brutes that you can't even see, much less reach! - Sob