72 brave with 318 dies when pushing brake pedal

[REDMAN]

I recently purchased  my Winnie from a friend down the road for a mere 500.00.  Fuel was bad so I ran a new line from the fuel pump to a 5 gal. can primed it, jumped it and it started right up.took awhile to get it moving from sitting so long but made it the few blocks home. let it idle for awhile then just stopped running. Looked under the doghouse and seen the voltage regulator was toast and oozing a glue substance on tranny. replaced that and fired it right up. while replacing it I remembered there was two ground wires attached to the bracket but could only find one and another missing a connector on the end. wired them together thinking it broke off. now when I press down on brake it slowly dies. im not getting fuel to carb either but enough for it to start and idle. Pretty sure its a clogged fuel filter or debris in carb which was rebuilt by po  since another buddie tried to start it with the bad gas. IT barely had enough power to get home or back up in driveway but figure it was lack of fuel. gonna tackle that tomoorow but could bad brake switch cause the motor to quit running? I also have read on here today  that you shouldn't start your motor while pushing in the mom switch but that is only way it will crank. Any help will be greatly appreciated and know that I am asking a lot.lol. thanks Redman.

[cosmic]

mom switch means your using, both coach and chassis batteries.
as far as stepping on the break and the engine dying. I would suspect a vacuum hose from the brake booster to the intake manifold. ( just a thought and takes seconds to check)
sounds like you chassis battery is toast and relying on the coach battery to crank..

[REDMAN]

I put a new chassis battery in but didn't replace the coach. Tying to get it running before I worry about accessories. I will ck your idea but think its electrical because the brake lights dim now when you push the petal then all the light go out when it dies. right brake quit working all together now.

[REDMAN]

Mabe I have the batteries switched around as well. I will switch them tomorrow when its light out. Didn't think of that. thanks.

[LJ-TJ]

Well for me and the way I do things is through process of alimentation. The first thing I'd try is to disconnect the both batteries. I'd take my test meteor and check both batteries to see what the charge is. I'd clean all the connections and pay special attention to the ground wire where it attaches to the battery box take it off and make sure it's especially clean. You need a good ground. Now I'd only attach one battery. Go inside the coach, check make sure the DUEL/MOM switch is in he middle. NOT in the duel position. Now try and start the rig. If it starts then you have the chassis battery hooked up right. Go out and us some masking tape or other tape and mark those cables as Chassis cables. That means the other two cables will be your House battery. You can play with them later. Lets get here running right first.

[REDMAN]

thanks. I was thinking the same thing and good advise on checking the ground. Hadnt thought of that. This is our first rv so its gonna be a learning process. Any ideas on the brake pedal making the rig die when pushed and dimming brake lights?

[LJ-TJ]

 Did you run out of gas in your gas can when she quite running. If she's running and accelerating when you put the hose in the gas can then you know the fuel pump is working. The nest step is to check the fuel tank get it cleaned out as much a possible and fill it with fresh gas. Grab a few inline fuel filters and put a new one in every few gas tank fill ups. So once your got her running then you can start working on the electrics.

[REDMAN]

I thought at first it had run out of gas as well but it still had prob. 4 gal. left. It starts fine but you cant rev up rpms and I don't see any fuel spraying in carb so def. a lack of fuel. I read that today there is a drain on the fuel tank so gonna drain it tomoorow if I get time and install new filters as well. I would liketo get it running before the cold weather sets in. we have been fortunate last couple weeks.Thanks for suggestion on getting extra filters, hadn't thought of that. the filters look to be new but prob got clogged. I would like to drop tank and powerwash it but not sure if weather is gonna hold out much longer.

[LJ-TJ]

 Well if your just starting out the money comment is you can buy or down load from the site a Motor Home Chassis Parts Catalog (Models 1969-73_M-300,M-375
            1973-74_RM-300,RM-350,RM-400
            1975_M-300,M-400,M-500
            1976_ M-300,M-400,M-500,M-600

also you'll need the Dodge Motor Home Chassis Service Manual
(Models M-300,M-375,RM-300,RM-350,RM-400
Step up to the plate and by a

   
• http://www.ebay.com/itm/FLUKE-T5-600-Voltage-Continuity-Current-Tester-600-Volt-Multimeter-/221319908797?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3387b1cdbd
• It WILL save you a hole lot of grief.

[LJ-TJ]

 

   
• Here's check out this site it has your wiring diagram in it and the lay out of your dash. See how this works for yeah. Let us know how you make out. What you think.
• 
        
  • http://dave78chieftain.zxq.net/index.html

[REDMAN]

Thank you very much. I was looking at those manuals earlier but we are having trouble with computer so im gonna download on brothers computer and try to print them. I have been meaning to buy a voltmeter but have been reluctant. electrictrical items have never been my strong point though I do work on all my own cars. lol. I do appreciate all the helpful tips and glad I found this club. very resourceful and friendly. I will keep posted my success and failures so as to help others to.

[LJ-TJ]

As anyone here can attest to I like you new nothing about these old girls and I know it's open to debate but I new nothing about electrictrical and I know the Fluke can be expencive but the T-5-600 is worth every penny you'll pay for it. It is real easy to us. It's electric so it tells you how many volts things are. And it has a oms setting on it which will allow you to do continuity checks. It's real,real easy to us and you'll wonder how you ever got along with out it. Anyway have at it and if you have any questions keep asking.

[LJ-TJ]

   
• Look what I found if this works.

   
• http://books.google.ca/books/about/Popular_Mechanics.html?id=rtkDAAAAMBAJ&redir_esc=y

Check out this page. Now it say browse issues. Slide across until you find the cover of November 1980 and click on it. Look at contents and click on Servicing Chrysler's Electronic Ignition. It's a great issue.

[Oz]

Oh heck, we've got better than that right here, TJ!  Dave pulled-out all the stops on this one, remember?! 

Here's all you need:

http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php/topic,3424.msg19223.html#msg19223

We also have 3 additional tech articles on servicing Dodge EI systems in the Mechanics 101 section of the Member area.

No need to root around somewhere else for all this great info.

Here's a tip:  look here first.  A lot of time and effort has been spent by numerous members to make our resources the best you can find.

[REDMAN]

I agree Mark. I spent several hours browsing through the topic area before I posted a question and trying to become familiar with what the site had to offer. I was impressed to say the least after not finding much before finding you guys. I can tell your members really enjoy sharing the knowledge they have picked up along the way and encourages me to learn more and move on with the project. Thanks again for such a wonderful sight.

[REDMAN]

First off I want to thank everyone who took time to respond and help me. It was raining last few days and I have two cracked ribs so hadn't touched the Winnie till today. first I swapped the battery around like suggested and sure enough they had the marine battery which was toast hooked up to the chassis so I had hooked my good battery in its place and no more pushing mom switch to start and blower for heater turned on.lol least it worked. Anyway found two vacum lines not hooked up. one was vacuum advance other not sure butgoes down below the drivers seat on the frame, put clear fuel filters on and fired it up, ran good for couple minutes then wouldn't rev up without dieing or was  wanting to backfire. im still running on the gas can till weather breaks and I can clean tank and recoat with por-15. So I tapped on carb  fuel bowl and it died and wouldn't restart. took the top of carb off and found all kinds of rust and varnish. I didn't have a tag on it to identify it for a rebuild but again your forum came in handy and found out it is the bbd-6225s. gonna soak it tonight and purchase kit tomorrow. it will be my first carb rebuild but I have a buddy coming over to help. I will post how it turns out when im done. thanks again guys.

[REDMAN]

WELL carb kit wont be in till mon. afternoon so looks like I will be doing by myself. Like I said before it will be my first carb rebuild so anyone that might have some pointers for me I would apprieciate it. I have the two barrel carter bbd-6225S. I have ben soaking carb for 24 hrs now and seems to be cleaning up nicely though not torn apart yet or scrubbed on.I was thinking of just putting back on with new gasket n see if it works now since it was rebuilt last yr. Any thoughts on that?

[LJ-TJ]

Worth a try. Can't hurt anything. Hm?

[LJ-TJ]

   
• Try squirting some carb cleaner down the carb while it's running and see what happens.Understanding I don't know shoot from putty but for the extra cost I might be tempted to change out the Electronic Module   $74.05,Starter Relay  $23.06

[LJ-TJ]

  i?? D:oH! I don't think it's the cab.  Hm? I'd be tempted to change out the Electronic Module $74.05, the Voltage Regulator $8.50 and the Ballast Resister $10.20 Canadian. Can't hurt and you'll have to change then out sooner or later i?? .

[REDMAN]

I changed the voltage regulator because it was toast and gonna pick up a new ballast resistor  but I have a points system and wasn't sure if same ballast was used on both points and EI. I have been pricing the electronic kits but Im strapped for funds till ribs heal up and get back to work. I built a new shelf and floor for fridge yesterday and can hardly move today. Wife says to take a day off on the Winnie but love working on it.lol. I wont be working on it today. I know for sure the carb wasn't getting gas so Im gonna start there then hopefully in a couple weeks mabe put a EI kit in if carb goes good. Any suggestions on EI kit or should I buy whole distributor with EI? What kit s are recommened?

[legomybago]

Thats a great carb for learning how to rebuild on...take pictures as you take it apart if you need to. Depending on what carb soak you use...you may need to rinse them with water to remove the cleaners' residue, then blow the parts off using compressed air. I wouldn't worry about taking the throttle shaft and butterflys out. I can't remember, but the float needle seat might be pressed in versus screwed it? If it's pressed in, dont worry about trying to take it out, you will be fine just replacing the needle. Adjust your float height, then try to remember which position your accelerator arm was in! (I think they were adjustable). Dont over tighten the cover screws, those WILL warp the top if to tight....

[REDMAN]

Thanks for the tips laygomybago. I felt the same way that this is prob. an easier carb to rebuild otherwise I would hire it out.lol. Wife is picking up kit as I speak and I talked my youngest brother into helping me. He is a very good wrench and has a parts washer but I want to do myself with his supervision. That's the only way to learn in my book ,get your hands dirty.Hope this turns out good and solves my problem. If it does Im gonna purchase a petronix II electronic ignition conversion kit, thunder coil,new wires and plugs. Never have been a fan of points system. Had them in my 66 mustang GT for years and never seemed to stay adjusted right. Not going thru that again. If anyone has better suggestion on EI conversion kit Im all ears.

[DPR1945]

I had a VW repair shop for 35 years in Burlington N.J. called Volkstech and we had the same problem come into our shop with cars that had a carb and booster brake. Between the carb or manifold may be in the hose a check valve that's open or damaged, air or vacuum should travel only in one direction threw that valve, if damaged just go to an auto parts store and tell the guy you need one same size. You may also have a low brake pedal because the booster is leaking air threw the bladder, you may also notice your brake fluid is disappearing, its either dripping out of the bladder or the motor is sucking it up.

[cosmic]

(quote)''I would suspect a vacuum hose from the brake booster to the intake manifold. ( just a thought and takes seconds to check) W% ''

so did ya check this yet??

Did you figure out the battery thing. was it hooked up wrong. did this change anything from your mom switch problem?