Where's the Chevy P30 fuel pump relay?

[My.winnebago.tribe]

This is the post where you put your solution though correct? I can just use this thread?
Can you maybe read where you spliced the pink wire and added it to the carb and 86 and tell me if this sounds right to you...
Splice the pink wire and add a splice connect and insert two wires to the other side to run to carb and 86.
I'm okay with bypassing the switch as well

[ClydesdaleKevin]

Ive been on this all day!
I'm coming close I believe.
I need a RL 44 relay (4 prong)
I then need the installation socket part number RS40(where the 4 prong relay will plug in to.)
THEN based off of where 86,30,85 and 87 line up with Is where I wire in the wires.
Adding in the inline fuses easy! (He did use 30amp fuses right)
The part that I am stuck at is where he splices the pink wire to go to 86 and the choke.
I'm not sure but I believe he clipped the pink wire And added a splice connect which had two separate wires connected to the other end which one went to the choke and one to 86.
I'm hanging out in a Walmart parking lot until I get this fixed. I'm smack dab in the middle of all the parts stores and Lowe's so I hope he or anyone can chime in!
Been here since yesterday!
I will get my 10 gauge wire from Lowe's.

Did you figure this out yet?  It has been a LONG time since I owned that rig (we now have a diesel pusher)...but I did get it working.  And working well for years.  If what you've seen doesn't work for you, keep looking through my old posts about fuel pumps, relays, Barth, etc in the search.  The information IS there.

Kev

I sent a message to Kevin, the OP, to help shed some light on this.  Hopefully, he will.

I know I read one of his replies as to what relay he got, and that he did get it fixed. So, something must've gone right!

Once this is resolved, someone needs to put up a "sticky thread" with all the info, since this is such a common problem with the old P-30 chassis, and the factory relay is no longer obtainable.

Kev

[ClydesdaleKevin]

This is the post where you put your solution though correct? I can just use this thread?
Can you maybe read where you spliced the pink wire and added it to the carb and 86 and tell me if this sounds right to you...
Splice the pink wire and add a splice connect and insert two wires to the other side to run to carb and 86.
I'm okay with bypassing the switch as well

These two posts highlight exactly where I fixed it, and how:  "So this is the exact relay I'll be using, a Novita RL44 40 amp unit:





I decided to skip the toggle switch, since it will light up no matter what if there is 12 volts going to it.

Instead I'm going to keep it simple. 

The pink wire on the existing relay is 12 volts positive when the key is turned on.  I'm going to splice into this wire with 2 leads.  One will go to the electric choke, and the other will go to pin 86 on the new relay...that will energize the relay whenever the key is turned on...it will self prime without a toggle.

Right from battery, I'll be running a 10 gauge wire to pin 30 with an inline 30 amp fuse.

Pin 85 is ground, so I'll run a 10 gauge wire from there right to a good ground in the engine compartment.

Pin 87 is power out...I'll run a 10 gauge wire from this pin, all the way back to the electric fuel pump.

As long as the pump is still good, this should work out nicely!

Kev"

And:  "Once again in the words of Stewie from Family Guy...VICTORY IS MINE!!!!!

There is a reason I don't play the lottery.  There are 3 wires going to the fuel pump, and one is obviously a ground.  So that leaves 2.  50/50 shot, right?  One is 12 volts to the pump, the other is to the fuel gauge.

They look the same and are the same color.  I snipped one, and turned the key...fuel gauge pinned.  Yep!  Not a lottery player!  50% chance of winning, and I still lost...lol!  I hooked that wire back up, and then clipped the other wire and taped it off.

I ran fresh 10 gauge wire to the pump.  I sacrificed my oldest 10 gauge extension cord to come up with the wire in the middle of the desert.

I tied it into the other wire of course, ran it up high along the frame rail with lots of zip ties, and right to the engine compartment.

To make sure the pump still worked, I had Patti stand near the tank and put the new wire to battery hot...BINGO!!!  Pump running!

Then it was time to install the new relay.  Found a good place to screw it down, added all the spade terminals, and wired everything in.

I didn't have a fuse holder, so used spade terminals right to a 30 amp fuse inline with the wire to the pump.

System test!  Chassis power on, no juice to the pump.  Key on...power to the pump!

Choke works great attached to the spliced lead.

It works!

Victory is mine!!!

Kev"

[ClydesdaleKevin]

Here is the missing image, since it didn't copy and paste. 

[ClydesdaleKevin]

So to be clear, the pink wire needs to be spliced into two leads, with one lead going to the electric choke, and the other lead going to pin 86 on the new Novita RL44 4 terminal relay. 



You need to run a wire direct from battery, with an inline 30 amp fuse, to pin 30.  You need to run a good ground wire from pin 85 right to a good chassis ground in the engine compartment...and finally, you have to run a wire all the way back (10 gauge preferably) from pin 87 to the positive wire on your in-tank fuel pump.  It is that simple.  If you connect to the wrong wire at the fuel tank, the only thing bad that will happen is your fuel gauge will peg.  So switch the wire to the correct one.  Problem solved!  (Disclaimer:  This bypasses the oil pressure safety switch which is designed to shut off the fuel if you are in a crash...so use this formula at your own risk).

Kev 

[Oz]

Topic is a 'sticky', as suggested.

[ClydesdaleKevin]

Topic is a 'sticky', as suggested.

Thanks Mark!  I think this will help a lot of folks.  Although it seems the person this is intended for went with the inferior "toggle switch" method on another post...lol!

Kev

[udidwht]

Mine is located in the doghouse just forward of the AC compressor on the bulkhead against where your foots sits on accel pedal...

https://www.dropbox.com/s/e78a5103ygrztya/20180513_032855%5B1%5D.jpg?dl=0

[Wolfen24]

hello,

I am new to this forum and have found alot of the information helpful and have gotten this far so here it goes

1991 Chevy P30 454 7.4 TBI Fleetwood Bounder
we have done alot of work to this RV since last year new brakes, new fuel pump, all new gaskets etc on the TBI, water heater, even fixed the hydro boost that was fun (i call it the octopus) etc. it was running fine last year and through the winter we start it up and the week before Easter we started the RV and moved it and the following wknd after loading it up we went to leave and would not stay running.

It starts and runs for aprox 20 sec and shuts off.  turn the key off and back on and it starts but will not start unless you cycle the key.
so the following have just been replaced
Oil sending unit (now the oil pressure gauge is moving LOL)
new O2 sensor
fuel pump relay (just an FYI we just found and add'l access panel on the carpet at the top of the engine hole within the cab we cut the carpet and was able to access the relay)
    ****now we found that when the relay was jumped the vehicle continued to run so we got a new relay put in and such a disappointment to find it still does the same thing.  starts and shuts off after 20secs

looking for suggestion, help anything would really love to get this back up and running again.
the good news once this thing is running she is a beast was running and sound good it really gets up and goes.

any help or diagrams for the fuel and wiring system would be AWESOME.

thank you look forward to hearing back

Mary
 

[Wolfen24]

ok so we finally found the fuel pump relay. that didn't fix the issue.   but again when we jump the relay it stays running. 
does anyone know where the fuel pressure regulator is on these beasts?
1991 chevy p30 bounder 7.4 tbi

[udidwht]

The fuel pressure regulator is part of the TBI unit itself. Can be seen between both injectors with several allen bolts. I would suspect the oil pressure switch is at fault. Also I'd replace the 'coolant temp sensor'. It is in the intake manifold just below the T-stat housing facing forward. Keep us up to date.