Repair kit for fuel pressure regulator?

Rickf1985 · February 26, 2014, 07:03 PM

Someone posted a while ago about a repair kit for the regulator, do you know where to get one? I will go back and see if I can find out who posted that info.

Stripe · February 26, 2014, 07:04 PM

These links help? http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/fuel-pressure-regulator-rebuild-kits
http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php/topic,6278.msg35267.html#msg35267

Rickf1985 · February 26, 2014, 07:04 PM

Bingo! Thank you very much. Now if getting to it were so easy.

Stripe · February 26, 2014, 07:05 PM

Good Luck!

pvoth1111 · February 26, 2014, 07:43 PM

rockauto.com

Rickf1985 · April 06, 2014, 06:36 PM

Alright! I got it in today and no more gas leak! YEEEEE HAWW. And I got away with no having to drop the tank. Would not have helped anyway due to some freakin' genius that welded in the storage bin bracket right against the mounting bolt for the regulator. Tight against the end of the head of the bolt! I had to cut a hole in the storage bin to get two of the screws and I had to cut the corner off of the bin holder to get the bolt loose enough to give me enough play to almost line up the two screws from inside the bin. The other two screws I got from under the coach behind the wheels. I can't figure out how to get pictures from computer to here. I have uploaded them to Photobucket but that does not work here. I can't figure out how to make them smaller on the computer for a direct transfer either. Help?

TripleJ · April 06, 2014, 06:51 PM

Once they are on photobucket, click on the link on the right of the photobucket page where it says "links to share this page" Click the one that says Direct. It should auto save the link.

Then on the reply screen here on the forum, click on the little button that looks like the mona lisa. It will tell you to enter the image location. Just paste the link and hit OK

Stripe · April 06, 2014, 07:00 PM

What TripleJ said...

I still can't believe I beat Dave to the punch on this one..

Rickf1985 · April 06, 2014, 08:25 PM

OK, Pictures to follow. You can see where I had to cut the hole in the compartment, not that you can only get two screws from there. The pictures from under the coach were tough to get the right angle but the bolt holding the regulator is the one that had the edge of the compartment against it. I don't know if you can see where I had to cut it or not.

Rickf1985 · April 06, 2014, 08:34 PM

Couple more pics.

The last pic shows the extra spring that came with the kit that I did not use. The directions say the red spring is for the low pressure regulator and the white spring is for the high pressure regulator. Even though the coils are pretty close in size when I put this one in I would have had quite a time pushing it together to get the screws in so I went with the one they called for. Have not checked the pressure, I will do that when I replace the hose on the fuel pump. I sure hope I don't have to change it because those threads looked like they were rust welded for life! I am sure that the regulators are put in when there is nothing more than a chassis so the only people to blame for the impossible to get to scenario is Winnebago. I am sure the way they figure it is that buy the time any of these regulators go bad it will long out of warranty and they will not have to deal with it.

DaveVA78Chieftain · April 06, 2014, 08:55 PM

QuoteI still can't believe I beat Dave to the punch on this one..

Dave has been out in the driveway workin.

Stripe · April 07, 2014, 03:11 AM

Ahh yeah, that's why... Yeahhhh....

On another note, now I wonder if I have one of those whatchamacallits.. <-- Spell check says that's spelled correctly..

Rickf1985 · April 07, 2014, 07:07 PM

I can't get spell check to work for me at all. Maybe because I am using Firefox?

TripleJ · April 07, 2014, 07:11 PM

Quote from: Stripe on April 07, 2014, 03:11 AM
Ahh yeah, that's why... Yeahhhh....

On another note, now I wonder if I have one of those whatchamacallits.. <-- Spell check says that's spelled correctly..

If you have a holley fuel pump, you probably do have one. heres mine... MUCH easier to access

Of course it wont look like that once Im done with my re-do

Stripe · April 07, 2014, 10:12 PM

I do not recall seeing anything like that anywhere under the 'Goose'.. I'll have to take another look, trace the fuel lines, etc.. Dunno, maybe it's down to your RV being a 85 and mine a 84.. i??

DaveVA78Chieftain · April 07, 2014, 10:50 PM

For the P30 chassis (from the Chevrolet Motorhome Service Guide Appendix A-7):

Pre 85 1/2 - an electric fuel pump and regulator was a end user add on.

85 1/2 to 89 - GM installed an electric pump in the tank and the regulator on the passenger side frame rail

For both configurations, the regulator should be adjusted to 5 .5 PSI. This setup just pressurizes the 1/2" fuel line all the way to the mechanical pump to prevent vaporlock.

When GM went to TBI in 1990, they only have a electric pump in the tank with no mechanical pump. Fuel pressure regulation is built into the TBI assembly which recirculates the excess fuel back to the tank.

Dave

gpw9552 · August 15, 2014, 05:18 PM

The complete regulator is available from NAPA, P/N 335-3417, $43 + tax. It's made by Holley.

engineer bill · January 07, 2015, 05:31 PM

I've had a little bitty wiff of raw gas smell for a few weeks, and yesterday crawled under again and there it was. Mine (1989) appears to be the same as Rick1985's.

Will it be any easier to replace if I drop the fuel tank? Is it feasible to reroute the line and locate the new regulator elsewhere?

Rickf1985 · January 07, 2015, 06:58 PM

Would it be easier if you drop the tank? Yes. I have an 80 gallon tank and it was almost full so that was not an option for me and yes, moving it to a more accessible location would make sense. You do not want it to far from the pump though and there are several lines involved. I still want to drop my tank at some point to replace the old lines. That or cut an access from the top.

pvoth1111 · January 07, 2015, 08:04 PM

No need to drop tank.....easy job....< 20mins......or drop the tank.....and realize it didn't have to be dropped...

its four screws.....remove.....replace old parts with new ones in kit reassemble.....do NOT do not adjust large nut and allen screw in the middle.....just the 4 screws....

too easy.....

engineer bill · January 07, 2015, 10:53 PM

OK. That's all great news. I have ordered the 12-807 kit from Summit Racing and will have at it when it comes.

Rickf1985 · January 08, 2015, 07:52 AM

Easy job IF you can get to it. If you see my thread you will see where I had to cut out an inner wall of a compartment and also fight the regulator loose to get the screws out. The regulator was mounted before the coach was built. There was no consideration to repair when they built the coach.

engineer bill · January 08, 2015, 11:47 AM

From what I saw from a quick look Monday, I think I can get to the 4 screws and replace the diaphragm. Let's hope so. I was lying on my back and looking straight up at the adjustment set screw/nut. I'll crawl back under again today when it warms up a little bit.

I'd also really like to replace all of the fuel hoses .... I'm getting really tired of all these little problems that keep coming back and I'd like to put this to bed. I'm not sure though, exactly how things are plumbed from the tank, to the ONAN generator, the fuel pressure regulator and then up the frame rail to the mechanical pump and to the carburator. Just which parts of that are 'hose' and which parts are 'steel tube' and what is accessible.

engineer bill · January 20, 2015, 07:18 PM

Done!

Like pvoth said above, a 20 minute job on my Wnnebago Warrior Class A. The parts were about $7.50. Thanks a lot-this thread saved me a bunch of time & money.

knugent · September 26, 2015, 04:54 PM

Ok, for you folks who used the repair kit from Holley, I have questions:
1. Does the spring go under the "bonnet" or does it go inside the valve itself?
2. Does the "tit" on the diaphragm go under the bonnet or inside the valve itself?
3. Does the large end of the spring rest against the diaphragm or does the small end? And, does the spring go on the side with the "tit" or does it go on the flat side?
I know these are dumb questions, but there was no diagram with the kit.
Thank you for your help