Converter died, need advice.

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

Fredrick
90% of the Winnebago's of this era use a mode select relay controlled by a
Dual/NORM/MOM switch on the dash:

DUAL Position - Connects both battery banks together when the engine is running (Mode Relay energized)

NORM Position - Disconnects both banks and only the Chassis battery is charged

MOM Position - (momentary) Allows using the coach battery to assist with engine start.  Can also be used to allow the chassis battery to start the generator.

Your diode based isolator allways charges the coach battery when the engine is running.  Problem with the diode based design is full alternator output voltage is not applied to either battery set unless a seperate voltage sense circuit is used.  Your 4 wire version may have that ability.

You may also have a AUX Start switch with a mode relay.  The relay itself is the same between the 2 implementations.  The difference is how it's used, either as just an AUX start or as a DUAL/NORM/MOM.

The Battery Isolator Solenoid Rick and I have been talking about only disconnects the coach battery from the rig during storage.  He also has a mode select relay controlled by a DUAL/NORM/MOM switch.

Dave

[Stripe]

Yes on the AUX switch. I can use it to aid starting the engine w/house batteries or to aid starting the generator using the chassis battery. 

[Rickf1985]

So no isolator then?

Sorry Stripe, I jumped right over you. No, No isolator on this one. I have used them before on other vehicles but this has the mechanical relay we have been talking about.

[Rickf1985]

Ok, I got the relay to latch in so the coach is connected. This is a weird one. The coach batteries were low as normal for deep cycle batteries. I had charged them externally while I waited for my new converter to come in. The charge had dropped back down to about 10 volts which I thought was strange but figured maybe a battery was a little weak. It was weak alright, it would hold 10 volts but had a completely dead cell and would not carry any load. Consequently when I tried to switch the relay it would attempt to draw from both batteries but the dead one would load the good one to the point it would not send any amperage although there was enough voltage up to the point of hitting the switch. I disconnected the batteries from each other and put just a little charge in the good one and bang, the relay went right in. It is always the stupid things you should check first that get you. Then you start trying to over think the whole situation. I will put two new batteries in it and I don't think I will have any more trouble with at least that part of the system. Thanks for the help guys.

Rick

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

 

I bet you will not forget how this thing works!

And a few more people may have learned something for future reference

Dave

[Rickf1985]

I bet you will not forget how this thing works!

And a few more people may have learned something for future reference

Dave

Yea I will, I forgot before. I hate getting old. Got up this morning, barely, and my back is out. No reason, just out. Golden years my arse! N:(

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

You are not alone

[LJ-TJ]

So! What are these things worth or what would be a good price to pay for one and if anyone has the time. This is what I have in my 1975 21 footer. Any thoughts on what you would replace it with. Thank Mates.

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

My answer from a replacement perspective is:
Please look at this thread from the perspective of the end result.
12VDC Converter and Distribution Upgrade
Because  that is basically what you are asking.

The old, very old, converter you have, is only of value to someone wanting to keep everything in it's original configuration.  It was the predecessor to the mid-70's design I replaced in the thread I pointed you to.  It was also the style used in early small trailers and pop-ups like Apache Trailers

Dave

[LJ-TJ]

Thanks Dave. Good thread. I'm thinking I'll fallow your lead and see if I can't come up with the same rig you've got. Give me something to do on these freezing winter days...watching E-bay. Thanks again your a walking library of congress on Winnebago stuff. 

[M & J]

I'm still stunned Dave forget to pull the drain plug on his water heater.

[LJ-TJ]

   
• Yep I wasn't clear. I was wondering what would be a good price for the progressive dynamics PD-5000 AC/DC Distribution Panel and 60 AMP Converter with 3 Stage Charger. Sorry guys.
  D:oH!

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

You can use either a Progressive Dynamics 9260 like mine or a Powermax Boondocker 55 amp converter.  Kevin uses a Powermax and is very happy with it.  Both are 3 stage converters

Pd9260 will run around $150 (EBAY)
Powemax 55 amp is $115 (EBAY or best converters [kevins favorite place])

Distribution panel
I bought mine used so had a good price brake and it included the CB's.  Most AC/DC distribution panels can be wired for either 30 or 50 amp service (saves the mfg $ by making for both)

This $40 will work fine http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-WFCO-MODEL-WF-8930-50-30-50-AMP-RV-BARK-BOX-POWER-DISTRIBUTION-PANEL-BLACK-/251222630216?_trksid=p2054897.l4276

Manual: http://www.wfcoelectronics.com/Images/Products/OtherDocs/18-3.pdf‎
Can be wired for either 30 or 50 amp service.

Only thing is you have to buy is AC breakers and standard DC fuses.  Use the lighted fuses so you can easily see if it has blown.  You can even get resetable DC CBs that fit in the fuse holder if you desire.  The type of AC breakers you need are listed on that listing.

I suspect everyone is familure with standard house breakers that only have one circuit per slot.  I used the twin circuit breakers which places 2 CB's in one slot.  You can see these at Lowes / Home Depot.

Make yourself a AC and DC power distribution diagram so you know everything you will need.

Dave

[Stripe]

 :)rotflmao

[LJ-TJ]

Good stuff Dave thanks.......what'd you say...kidding :)rotflmao You know this isn't done cause once I get one it will be "Hey Dave where's this wire go?. Hey Dave what's this wire for?" D:oH! Thanks again mate.

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

Hmm  D:oH! ,  in my anticipating things, I think I said

Make yourself a AC and DC power distribution diagram so you know everything you will need.

Dave  W%

[M & J]

Or...... Hire Dave. Fly him up.

[Stripe]

Canada may be a bit too cold..

[Rickf1985]

OK, I got lost at post #38 and have not been able to figure out what is going on since. Water heater plug?

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

TJ got us off on a tangent at Post 35 however, because of many different implementations over the years, the root topic of "Battery interface" can be one of many tangents.

Dave

[M & J]

TJ and his pictures......... 

[LJ-TJ]

   
• I must have missed something? What's "Battery interface" do I got to hook it up to the converter. Hm? i?? D:oH! What'd I miss. Nuts

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

LOL - As I told Mark regarding this whole thread:

Well, the basic topic is battery interface variations which is comprised of:

Battery AUX Mode Solenoid (X-connect chassis & Coach Battery) which has possibilities of:
   DUAL/NORM/MOM switch
   AUX Start switch
   BIRD Interface
   Trick-L-Charge

Electronic Battery Isolator

Battery Disconnect Solenoid (90's era)

Hmm, Guess I get to write another article.

Dave
 

[LJ-TJ]

 D:oH! Ok so I now I don't get it and am driving you guys CRAZY  i?? but and I don't know what I'm doing but I want to run my furnace on the weekends off my batteries along with my coffee maker etc,etc,etc. So it's pretty solid that I'll be buying two Trojan 6 Volt T-125 Deep Cycle batteries Right. I just bought a Motomaster Eliminator 1750 W inverter. Right. Am I on the right track i?? Now what else do I need? Something about something that has a fuse panel in it with a build in battery charger? Any suggestions on a make style? Ha this is getting discouraging.

[Stripe]

1750?  That's all??