Converter died, need advice.

Started by Rickf1985, March 01, 2014, 10:27 AM

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DaveVA78Chieftain

TJ,
I will put together a thread about a modern electrical system.  You are getting little lost due to all the different directions this thread has taken.  Ricks thread got completly hijacked

Dave
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Rickf1985

I gave up at number 38, it went somewhere I had never been.? i?? i?? i?? :D :D

DaveVA78Chieftain

Sorry Rick.  I should not have let that happen.  Did you get everything working OK?

Dave
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LJ-TJ

 :)rotflmao :)rotflmao :)rotflmao :)rotflmao I'm so screwed. Hey guys if I screwed up the thread I sorry. I don't know if my bum is punched,bored or sucking wind. Sorry. i?? What can I say Dave sometimes Thanks just doesn't seem enough.

Rickf1985

Yea Dave, After charging the batteries the switches worked the way they should. I do not understand why it will not charge the batteries automatically even if they are switched off but I will worry about that another time.
I also found a wire pulled out of a connector under the hood, I could see where it came from so I hooked it back up............................... Now I know why my fuel pressure regulator stopped leaking. D:oH! D:oH! Yup, The electric fuel pump now works.

LJ, I wouldn't worry about it too much. It comes with advanced age, as our minds wander so do our posts. :-[

Rick

legomybago

It would be neat to have a "reefer too"  :laugh: users guide for installing the correct inverter/converter and solar systems for the laymen, I'd be reading it Hm?

Our old rigs electronics are stoneage...
Never get crap happy with a slap happy pappy

DaveVA78Chieftain

I suspect people are looking for this sort of detail that I have done over the years




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Stripe

Now to research ways with witch to use this information for my evil schemes!!!  Muahahaaha!!! $@!#@!
Fredric,
Captain of the Ground Ship "Aluminum Goose"
28' Holiday Rambler Imperial 28

DaveVA78Chieftain

Those drawings are ATS based for the lazy man RV'er however moving the plug version is almost the same.

One thing of major importance is by electrical code, an RV AC power panel is a considered to be a sub-panel.  Thou shall not connect the ground (green) and neutral (white) leads together in a sub panel.  Only place that is done is back at the main house breaker panel at the utility transformer entry point.

Yes, 50 amp service is 240VAC from red to black just like in a stick and brick house.  Most RVs however do not have appliances that are 240VAC.  Some of the modern rigs have 240VAC washer/dryers and 240VAC basement ACs.  Of course those are typically diesel pusher rigs ranging 40 - 45ft with large diesel generators.   Just like a stick and brick house, AC loads are divided between the L1 and L2 circuits.  That is just a sampling of the article I have to put together.

Dave
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Oz

He'll get to that right after he re-designes the wiring for the international space station....
1969 D22, 2 x 1974 D24 Indians, 1977 27' Itasca

Rickf1985

Quote from: DaveVA78Chieftain on March 24, 2014, 02:45 PM
I suspect people are looking for this sort of detail that I have done over the years





Now you need to do that for the DC circuits! That ought to tax your brain and computer! AC is easy, DC is where the fun starts.

Stripe

I dunno, when it comes to AC, it seems to just flip flop..
Fredric,
Captain of the Ground Ship "Aluminum Goose"
28' Holiday Rambler Imperial 28

DaveVA78Chieftain

QuoteNow you need to do that for the DC circuits! That ought to tax your brain and computer! AC is easy, DC is where the fun starts.

Actually DC is easier because you don't have to show the ground path where AC has all these little nuances




There are hundreds of different implementations of DC circuits on RV's.  Best one can do is provide an example of the basics.  Most of the 70's era rigs had no where near the DC distribution network you 89 Chieftain has.
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DaveVA78Chieftain

As you can see from this web site How to Electrical Vids, there is a whole lot of variations for an electrical system.

Dave
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