My P30 project

circleD · April 27, 2014, 11:13 PM

Looking good man! I'm installing a water pump and hoses in 2 weeks. Can you giveme a list of stuff that I should replace while I'm in there and any tips on the radiator removal? I want to change all coolant lines and belts and I've seen your part # for some of them but can you do a list?

cncsparky · April 28, 2014, 06:52 PM

Circle, happy to help! Be aware that my belt part numbers will not work on yours unless you've done the same mods as me.
PS Belt 15410
WP-PS belt 15460
Alt belt K060448

Hoses (Gates)
21519 upper
21442 lower
Most heater hose was 5/8", Piece from radiator was 3/4" and needed a reducer to connect to remaining 5/8" hose.

New Water pump from Autozone DWP-442HD (HD version)
New ACDelco fuel pump 42440
Timing chain set Cloyes C3024K

Took me most of a day to get the radiator out. I thought the toughest part was getting to the bolts holding the two radiator support halves together. Take pictures

. You will run into both metric and SAE sizes

so have a good selection of tools handy.

DonD · April 28, 2014, 07:29 PM

I used Gates on my stock 2 A.I.R. setup.

Alt/a.i.r./wp=K060560
PS=3L410
A.I.R. (the lone one)=7450
A/C/ps/wp=3L610<---Should be 7612, the 3L is too narrow.<------

circleD · April 28, 2014, 10:17 PM

cncsparky · May 03, 2014, 10:39 PM

Got the fan with a new clutch installed. With all the crap removed from the top of the engine, the fan/clutch slipped in easily

The clutch is a Hayden #2797 and comes with a lifetime warrany from O'Reilly auto. Also, in this picture you can see the egr blockoff installed. From summit racing its part number is RFW-EB4.

Picture of the new oil lines installed. Several fittings on these rebuilt lines made getting everything tightened up a bit cumbersome.

On the subject, I changed the oil. Put in high zinc synthetic Amsoil made for classic cars with flat tappet cams like our RV's have. Modern oils have all but removed the ZDDP zinc additive that is necessary to properly reduce friction between flat tappets and cams. Done because of federal emissions regulations.

cncsparky · May 05, 2014, 09:46 PM

Next on the agenda is changing the rear end fluid.

Mine has a 10 bolt rear cover, apparently some others are 14 bolt. I first pulled the plug out and checked current fluid level, it was just under the bottom of the plug hole.

The cover has 9/16" bolts. Removal is straightforward. There was no gasket there, just some sealant. Guessing that is how the factory does it i?? Used a lot of paper shop towels to get old fluid out of the bottom of the housing. Here is where you do not want to find "pieces" N:(

Cover cleaned up and new gasket. Felpro RDS6014

I used amsoil 75-90W .

This handy pour spout made quick work of installing the new fluid. Used right at 3 quarts when fluid started coming out of the hole. Will recheck after first road trip.

cncsparky · May 12, 2014, 10:18 PM

The past week I have worked on the main gas tank. I wanted to replace any rubber lines that needed and check out the in tank fuel pump.

While dropping the tank, the factory line that connects the tank to the regulator was only 12" or so long

. Had I known, I would've only dropped the tank enough to disconnect the line. The tank dropped quickly off the jack and pulled on the fuel supply hard line coming out of the top of the tank, bending it. The tube to sending unit body bond was broke, creating a possible fuel leak if not repaired.

Getting the sending unit out of the tank, I discovered what others here have, the rubber line connecting the fuel pump is broken. Makes all this work seem somewhat worthwile W%

I replaced the fuel pump. ACDelco pt# EP386 (I got the Delphi equivalent). It came with everything needed including sending unit to tank oring gasket. I ohmed the fuel sending unit and it read 10-100 ohms, factory says 0-90 ohms. I cleaned the contacts inside the sending unit, but didn't help. i??

Repaired the broken area with JB weld epoxy.

I replaced the 3/8" fuel line from the tank to the regulator, using plenty of spare in case the tank needs dropped again. I put a hose barb fitting on the regulator for the 3/8"line. Also replaced a section of 1/2" rubber fuel line from the regulator to the chassis steel line. I added extra here too, on my rig the extra fuel line will allow me to remove the regulator without dropping the tank next time

Replaced the fuel in and vent hose. 1.75" and 5/8" hose from O'Reilly.

Reinstalled gas tank

What a job that was!

circleD · May 12, 2014, 10:33 PM

When you lowered your tank to pull out the sending unit and pump, was there enough room while it was under the RV to pull it out of the tank or did you slide the tank out from underneath to do most of that?

cncsparky · May 12, 2014, 10:41 PM

While chasing down fuel lines, noticed that the genset fuel lines will need replaced too. Here I go again D:oH! The PO (my FIL) never was able to get the generator to run, so at this point it has been at least 7-8 years since it ran last. This will be fun

My rig has an auxilary 20 gal fuel tank for the generator only. Of course it was nearly full of who knows how old gas i??

Removed the old hose, repaired the tank vent, and tested the sending unit. The ground seems bad for the sender, so I installed a new ground wire to attach to the frame.

Installed about 16' of 1/4" fuel line. Added a fuel filter in line, not sure why there wasn't one to begin with i?? Wix # 33001

continued....

cncsparky · May 12, 2014, 10:43 PM

Quote from: circleD on May 12, 2014, 10:33 PM
When you lowered your tank to pull out the sending unit and pump, was there enough room while it was under the RV to pull it out of the tank or did you slide the tank out from underneath to do most of that?

I could've worked the sending unit with the tank still under the rig, but i pulled it out from under it for better access.

circleD · May 12, 2014, 10:50 PM

Alrighty! I wish I had a seperate tank for my gen but everywhere I want to put it is a hassle. Great work and pics man. Keep'em coming. That's the next project after I hopefully install the new carb tomorrow.

cncsparky · May 12, 2014, 11:05 PM

OK, so new fuel lines, filter, and fresh gas in the tank. Genset ready to fire W% :)rotflmao Yea right! The pump isn't pulling fuel. Advantage of having a clear fuel filter is I can see if fuel is moving. Pulled a vacuum on the line and was able to get fuel easily, but gen fuel pump not working. Read on some forums that the pump can be taken apart and cleaned up and may start working, so that is what I did. (After checking to make sure the pump was getting power while cranking the gen)

Pulled pump apart, bottom comes off easily. Found lots of old gas varnish and that old gas smell Hm? . Was successful at cleaning it up. Using carb cleaner, I was able to clean out the old varnish and clean through the unit and check valve.

Reattached pump and still no go

I even tapped on it with a hammer while cranking, someone suggested

Tried a couple more times before throwing in the towel. While researching a new unit, I read where some peeps were replacing the Facet pump with a generic fuel pump. Low and behold, in my garage from a previous project years ago is a 42S pump that happens to be one that is suggested for this application

I gots to thinking Hm? , if the fuel pump was varnished like that, what does the carb look like? Better have a look. So I pulled it. As suspected, it was gunked up pretty bad also. The fuel inlet was plugged. Took the bowl off and removed the float and needle. All the farther I took it apart. Used nearly a can of carb cleaner to spray out all the passages I could get to.

Dirty:

Cleaned:

Put back together. Installed the new fuel pump. Once gas got up to it, the gen fired up. It smoked for a while, but cleared. It ran smooth with no hunting at all

Fired up the AC and let the two run for 1.5 hrs without a hickup.

Stripe · May 13, 2014, 02:39 AM

Good job..

cncsparky · May 13, 2014, 07:23 AM

My hourmeter only shows 24 hrs for the gen, and yes it was working while I test ran the generator. That seems like unusual low hours for an '87 RV. By the looks of the Onan, it doesn't seem like it has much time on it.

cncsparky · May 13, 2014, 08:38 PM

I liked the cold air setup that Kev put on his, so I bought all the pieces and installed. Except I got the sexy blue filter

Bolted two flanges together, sealed with some ultra black sealant, then attached to the original air intake bracket.

Parts list:
From Summit Racing
SPE-9148 Flange (2)
SPE-9849 intake plenum
SPE-HPR9612B Filter
SPE-9751 flex duct hose
Also used 2 extra 4" hose clamps

ClydesdaleKevin · May 14, 2014, 06:41 PM

Holy crap! You are making some serious headway, man! Glad some of my posts helped...and I'll be looking at your posts intently when I finally get around to pulling our radiator, eliminating all the extra pulleys and smog pumps and AC compressor and all that, installing the new water pump that I've had for almost 2 years...and replacing the timing chain while I'm at it. I've got over 120K on the rig now, so its getting close to the time for me to do all that. Probably this coming winter.

Looking great so far! What does your rig look like on the outside? Its gonna look damn good under the doghouse!

Kev

circleD · May 14, 2014, 10:15 PM

I'll tell ya Kev, taking off the AIR pumps and extra hoses have made the vac pressure better and useing CNCs info has been a big help. If you take the alternator off you can get to the bottom AIR pump and take it out easy.
Still looking good sparky!!

cncsparky · May 15, 2014, 08:41 AM

Thanks guys! Glad to share my experience. As far as the outside, it needs some serious cleaning. Been sitting under a tree for a while. Thinking about getting a local detailing guy to come by to scrub it down the first time, then I can take care of it afterwards. We are planning a father's day weekend trip to the lake, so it needs to be running by then!

circleD · May 15, 2014, 04:58 PM

Leave it looking like crap but run like a champ

. Kind of like the old sleeper cars. Nothing special on the outside but the motor and other things are top notch. Then if a thief looks at it they'll feel sorry for you and leave you alone W% .

ClydesdaleKevin · May 15, 2014, 05:02 PM

Have you started it since taking the air pump hoses off the exhaust manifold? The reason I left mine in place is that on mine, if the hoses are off, a get a puft puft putter sound coming out of that box on the exhaust manifolds. Pretty much the only reason I left my smog pumps in place as well, although I rerouted them to go right into the manifold boxes:

My eventual plan is to get Banks headers for a 1990 TBI 454...which doesn't have the stupid ports but from what I understand routes the same...and THEN get rid of the smog pumps. By the way, from everything I've researched so far, headers on a 454 in a motorhome HAVE to be high quality thick steel, like Banks...not the thin steel affordable ones that are way cheaper, or else they'll warp.

Kev

TommyM · May 15, 2014, 05:10 PM

If one were to build an off-road not-smog-legal engine from one with a AIR injection / smog pump setup, in addition to removing the smog pump and hoses, he would have to plug the AIR manifolds, or replace the manifolds with headers that don't have the smog fittings. Otherwise you get that put-put noise which is effectively an underhood exhaust leak.

Tommy

ClydesdaleKevin · May 15, 2014, 05:13 PM

Yep...that's the beauty of being registered in Florida...lol! No inspections and no emissions testing. Another thing I'll be doing is going with an Edlebrock Performer intake manifold when I install the headers.

Kev

cncsparky · May 15, 2014, 06:46 PM

I did notice a little pressure coming out of both sides with the hoses off. Not sure what to do yet. May try plugging off with a piece of hose and plug. I believe those are supposed to be one way check valves that may be bad anyways. I do have a serious exhaust leak somewhere, haven't completely pinned it on the manifolds yet. The exhaust donuts seem to be missing!

Do want to install headers, but running low on cash now, may have to wait till this fall. Haven't decided which ones but am leaning towards the Hedman Elite series that would be without the smog line connections. Maybe the Thorleys. They do both have an extra thick exhaust flange. Not worried so much about warpage after I do my timing modifications. The exhaust should run much cooler.

cncsparky · May 15, 2014, 06:54 PM

Noticed my driveshaft Ujoints were not the greaseable type, so I pulled the shaft(s) and had new joints and a carrier bearing installed at a driveline specialist. They use all Spicer parts. Almost $200 but a lot of piece of mind knowing they are good now.

Parts included 3 Ujoints and a carrier bearing $138 and $48 to balance. Took two 1410 and one 1350 Ujoint for those that wanted to know.

tiinytina · May 15, 2014, 07:23 PM

Went with Banks here... AIR gone.. no emissions in MD or inspection either... only thing we did was put a piece of insulation between the starter and the headers just in case. She Sounds like a pack of Harley's and runs like a top. Truck heavy duty fan clutch so in the summer she also sounds like a jet engine on top of the Harley blada blada blada at take off too. The Banks system also has the exhaust back to the carb feed built in. No issue with melted plug wires since either.

noticed that the U-joints were not greasable.. on my Taco 4x4 I grease those every 10K. let me know if you feel/see a difference if worth replacing etc. Nothing done those far has significantly increased mileage thus far... still priceless in the happiness department though.