My P30 project

[cncsparky]

Cool stuff  http://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-8394/overview/year/1986

Nice!  But, IMO, way overkill for a stock 454 in a RV.

How'd it run Sparky?

Checking out the systems on the coach and de-winterizing.  Will take it for a spin this weekend.

[cncsparky]

If I had to deal with the smog laws like you , I'd look hard at a late model vortec 454 EFI swap w/OD.  My understanding is you could swap in a later model engine and if you retain its emissions stuff, it would be legal. 

[cncsparky]

Just an update.  Two weeks ago, my wife and I ran out to a local lake only 10 miles away to give the coach a good initial test for one night.  No problems!  Last week we went a little further, about a 200 mile round trip for a weekend.  Pulling a 3500 lb boat, I showed 6.96 mpg.  Not sure I got the fuel tank completely full for an accurate measurement, more on that later.  Even tested the cruise control for a bit, it works!  Got a few things to do before a bigger trip, about 550 miles round, very soon.

Repair exhaust leak
Fuel leak around tank
New front sway bar bushings
Gauges
Repair broken vent cover in bathroom
Troubleshoot transmission not kicking down at highway speeds
Chassis fuel filter
Check spare tire and gather items to change it if needed.

[circleD]

That looks exactly like my list . Except I need to replace the sink vent. I thought your fuel tank issues were over with from all that work? Keep us posted   

[cncsparky]

My fuel system developed a leak.  Noticed it after filling the tank completely for the first time.  Not much but was coming out around the fill hose area.  Didn't know at the time if it was coming off the top of the tank.  I repaired the fuel sending unit and was afraid it was leaking  .  Upon further investigation I discovered the fuel fill hose that O"Reilly sold me was not fuel fill hose but coolant hose.  It is not apparent anywhere on the hose. 

From earlier post, this is the hose I originally installed.



It was a very stiff hose to install and I noticed that it had softened up a lot.  So I did some research and found out it was coolant hose, not for fuel use.   

I did find the correct hose and installed.  Just concerned with how much of that rubber dissolved into my fuel tank.  Hm?



I will top off the tank again soon and make sure there aren't any leaks.  Installed a new chassis fuel filter and have spares with me incase of blockage occurring from the bad rubber hose. 

[cncsparky]

On my trial run road trip, noticed the tranny kickdown wasn't working.  It will downshift at slower speeds like <45mph, but not at highway speeds.  There is a kickdown switch mounted to the gas pedal that was out of adjustment.  Info in the following thread:

http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php/topic,9748.0.html

After adjustment, verified +12V was getting to the transmission electrical plug when the pedal was depressed.  It still won't downshift.  There is a solenoid inside the tranny that controls at speed downshift.  After talking to a transmission guy at work, he said the TH400 is downshifting at lower speeds based on the vacuum modulator, not the kickdown switch.  At highway speeds, a solenoid inside the tranny receives +12V in order to downshift.  This is NOT the same as pulling the shift lever down to 2nd.  He said that is much harder on the tranny as bands in the tranny must activate for the downshift.  The kickdown solenoid simply dumps fluid pressure to facilitate a downshift. 

My kickdown switch, fairly easy to get to and readjust.



Pulled the tranny pan.  The filter is very loose, which I found out is normal  Hm?   Also, the filter outlet seal was badly broken probably allowing unfiltered fluid to enter the tranny. 



Installed new filter, temperature sensor, and new kickdown solenoid.









I originally bought a Wix filter kit, but my friend said I shouldn't run a paper type filter, but a screen type like is used on later model tranny's.  He picked one up for me.  Barely just see the screen inside the filter housing.



I tested the old solenoid and it was only intermittently working. 

[cncsparky]

My wipers were essentially gone.  Found some on Ebay.  Replaced the 24" models but apparently my coach came factory with 20" as far as I could find.

[cncsparky]

A pic of my rig.

[DonD]

Your wipers are identical to mine, got mine at Rock Auto for under $2 ea. Yes, 20in.

[Stripe]

Great info, I will be looking into this for mine now if anything as a PM...

[cncsparky]

Installed new front sway bar bushings.  Mine are 1.25" .  Install was fairly straightforward and easy. 

Old bushings



New bushings



Moog part number.  Two per box, needs 2 boxes.

[cncsparky]

Exhaust leaks      Decided to give it a try to fix myself.  Won't do this again  :)rotflmao   Take it to a pro  D:oH!

My leaks seem to be around where the exh pipe meets the manifold, hoping its not a bad manifold.  I can move the exh pipe around at the manifold, like the 'donut' is gone. 



Driver side, 2 of 3 bolts broke off.  One broke flush and the other left a stud.  On this side, was able to easy-out the broken flush bolt and the stud came out with vice grips.  Lots of heat from a Map gas torch and penetrating oil. 



Used an exhaust stud kit (doorman).  This side back together and not leaking anymore 



Now, the passenger side.  It did not go so well  .  Was so frustrating that I failed to get any pics.  All three bolts broke off flush.  Broke 2 easy outs.  Probably 5-6 hours on my back working on this side itself. Finally decided to drill out the broken bolts and install 3/8" through bolts.  Need very good drill bits to do this.  And after all this, it still leaks  .  Not sure the donut seated properly, will recheck it later.

Lesson learned: Don't be a cheap bum, go to a professional  W%

[Stripe]

Groovy you used almost the same bushings I did..

[legomybago]

Now, the passenger side.  It did not go so well  .  Was so frustrating that I failed to get any pics.  All three bolts broke off flush.  Broke 2 easy outs.  Probably 5-6 hours on my back working on this side itself. Finally decided to drill out the broken bolts and install 3/8" through bolts.  Need very good drill bits to do this.  And after all this, it still leaks  .  Not sure the donut seated properly, will recheck it later.

That is very, very, painful....been there.

[cncsparky]

Installed a new triple gauge set.  Not finished, would like to add 3 more including a voltmeter, oil pressure, maybe fuel pressure.  I installed a tranny temp gauge since I tow a boat and don't have an external tranny cooler.  Engine temp as the factory one is very ambiguous.  And a fuel mileage vacuum gauge, since someone on here had one and I got jealous   

[cncsparky]

My speedo reads 5mph slow compared to my garmin.  Looked online and found that I can change gears in the tranny to help it out.  Every tooth change equates to a 2.5% change.  I calculated a 7.6% error, so need to change by 3 teeth.  Lower the tooth count if the speedo is reading slow like mine.

My original is a 'green' gear with 42 teeth.  The housings can only take a certain range of gears, mine was 40-44 teeth.





Was only going to put a 40 so I wouldn't have to change housings, but the parts house did not have the 'black' 40T gears in stock.  Ended up getting a good used housing for $7 from them and the çorrect 39T 'red' gear.  Also new seals, all for less than $20. 



Going on a trip in a few days and will report back if this made my speedo more accurate.

[legomybago]

With the 5 mph variation you have/had, you could calculate how many miles your rig REALLY has on it!!! 

[GONMAD]

Good start! regarding the belts for the power steering/ hydroboost, ALWAYS try to install a 'matched set' of belts. if one belt fails you're out of brakes & steering. I've had this happen to me twice before I went to matched pairs. Safety first & it's worth the cost for the peace of mind!! Also install a 'FAILSAFE' 180 thermostat. If it fails it remains open so as not to burn the engine up. Be sure to examine the rear brake rotors, I had one of mine come off in my hands separate from the hub... kinda scary! Be SURE to thoroughly inspect ALL fuel lines for rust & surely replace ALL rubber hoses & use good clamps as some new line clamps are inferior quality from some third world country that doesn't have standards, I suggest marine or aircraft clamps.  I have had to replace all brake line hoses just for safety purposes..nuf said bout that! You're off to a good start & your list will get longer. The end result is truly rewarding. Congrats & good luck!   GONMAD

[TripleJ]

That is very, very, painful....been there.

Same here.  My passenger pipe was flopping loose at the flange.  I broke all three studs flush even with heat applied.  I drilled and tapped rather than mess with EZ outs - never had much luck with those things...

The extra bit of fun for me was the flare on the pipe was so small and crooked that the flange would slip right over it.  Had to use a split flange kit but its all good now.  I also threw out the heat riser valve.  Man that was sweaty work under the ol RV

[cncsparky]

With the 5 mph variation you have/had, you could calculate how many miles your rig REALLY has on it!!! 

Thats funny, didn't think about that.  It would add about 5K miles to mine which is currently showing around 65K. 

[cncsparky]

Same here.  My passenger pipe was flopping loose at the flange.  I broke all three studs flush even with heat applied.  I drilled and tapped rather than mess with EZ outs - never had much luck with those things...

The extra bit of fun for me was the flare on the pipe was so small and crooked that the flange would slip right over it.  Had to use a split flange kit but its all good now.  I also threw out the heat riser valve.  Man that was sweaty work under the ol RV

Haven't seen one of those flanges before.  I left the drivers side heat riser valve in place since removing it I would've had to extend the exh. pipe somehow.

[cncsparky]

Good start! regarding the belts for the power steering/ hydroboost, ALWAYS try to install a 'matched set' of belts. if one belt fails you're out of brakes & steering. I've had this happen to me twice before I went to matched pairs. Safety first & it's worth the cost for the peace of mind!! Also install a 'FAILSAFE' 180 thermostat. If it fails it remains open so as not to burn the engine up. Be sure to examine the rear brake rotors, I had one of mine come off in my hands separate from the hub... kinda scary! Be SURE to thoroughly inspect ALL fuel lines for rust & surely replace ALL rubber hoses & use good clamps as some new line clamps are inferior quality from some third world country that doesn't have standards, I suggest marine or aircraft clamps.  I have had to replace all brake line hoses just for safety purposes..nuf said bout that! You're off to a good start & your list will get longer. The end result is truly rewarding. Congrats & good luck!   GONMAD

Thanks for the tips!

[TripleJ]

Haven't seen one of those flanges before.  I left the drivers side heat riser valve in place since removing it I would've had to extend the exh. pipe somehow.

I didn't know about them either, but when I described my problem at the part store they knew exactly what I needed. I actually went in looking for a tool that I could re flare the pipe while still on the vehicle.

My rig has dual exhaust with the pipe run straight back on either side. All I had to do was loosen the clamps front to back, and shift the whole pipe forward a little bit

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

By chance have the Mfg name and P/N for the clamp?  Thats what people will need if they run into it in the future.

Dave

[Stripe]

I second that..