My P30 project

[circleD]

cncsparky, when you dropped the fuel tank did you have to cut the vent tube that goes up beside the fill hose? I don't have a disconnect or hose clamp to get to so I was going to cut it and splice it back together like the fill hose.
And still curious if the extra fuel line coiled up on top has made a difference other than just needing extra time to prime.  Hm?

[TripleJ]

By chance have the Mfg name and P/N for the clamp?  Thats what people will need if they run into it in the future.

Dave

At the peril of drawing the wrath.... here is the requested info from Oreilly's website


http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/ROL0/577756.oap?ck=Search_577756_-1_4639&keyword=577756


2.5 inch split flange kit

ROL Gaskets - Exhaust Flange
Part Number: 577756
Line: ROL

    90 day limited warranty
    UPC: 62573510409
    Split Flange
    Fits 2-1/2 Inch Pipe
    3 Bolt Holes

Detailed Description-
    Split flange designed for repair without disassembly of exhaust system


Additional Details-
    Diameter (In): 2-1/2 Inch

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

Thanks JC,
The ROL catalog (http://rolmfg.com/rolmfg.com/media/pdf/ExhaustRetailCatalog/Z13878%20(low%20res).pdf) has a lot of useful exhaust items

Dave

[cncsparky]

cncsparky, when you dropped the fuel tank did you have to cut the vent tube that goes up beside the fill hose? I don't have a disconnect or hose clamp to get to so I was going to cut it and splice it back together like the fill hose.
And still curious if the extra fuel line coiled up on top has made a difference other than just needing extra time to prime.  Hm?

Sorry I'm a little late, was on a trip.  The 5/8" vent line didn't need cut, but I did replace it along with the fill hose.  Just make sure you get fuel hose, not coolant hose. 

The extra fuel line doesn't seem to make any difference at all.  Just easier if I need to drop the tank again or mess with the chassis mounted pressure regulator. 

[circleD]

Gotcha ya  . I've already dropped it and waiting on parts.

[cncsparky]

Well, my first big trip in the rv didn't start off or end so well 



About 200 miles into my 300 mile trip, lost 2nd and 3rd gear.  Had first and reverse.  Was able to ease it to a truck stop at 25mph in a 65. Tried some quick diagnosis but no avail.  Fortunately, my insurance agent signed me up for roadside assistance and they actually towed me the rest of the 100 mile trip  at no charge to me (except tip to driver). 

All was not lost for my week vacation.  We planned a week at a campground on Tablerock lake in Mo, my parents have a lake house near the campground.  I had the rv towed to their place and we drove 1st gear to the campground for the week  .  Meanwhile, while camped, we tried troubleshooting the tranny and decided something was wrong with the governor( my dad owned a tranny shop years ago and I have friends that work on them).  Pulled it out and found this the gear was gone.  Its under a four bolt cover on the side of the tranny.



We thought sure enough that was the problem, ordered parts early in the week and had them in two days and tranny back together.  Took for a quick 10 mile test run where it ran great.  Finished out our week at the campground and loaded up to head home.  We got about 7 miles away and lost high gear again  .  Babied it back to the parents house, pulled the governor and again it sheared the gear off.  I pulled the extension (tail) housing off and found lots of rust.  There are two large roller bearings in the housing that support the drum parking brake, they are rough and rusty.  We decided it was probably best to drop the whole tranny out to freshen it up and troubleshoot.



As of right now the rv is a resident of MO with its tranny out.  I am gathering parts and will head back there in a couple of weeks to put together. 

[circleD]

I'm sorry to hear that man. You've done so much work and quick on that thing. I guess its good to know people with tools, experience, and a place to park it. I know you'll get it fixed and probably built better than before 

[boogie_man]

Heartbreaker  , I can't believe the work you've done this beast.  It's been very inspiring to say the least, keep the updates coming and you'll get it going again I'm sure.

[legomybago]

I thought the PO told you it was a new transmission when you purchased the rig???

[cncsparky]

I thought the PO told you it was a new transmission when you purchased the rig???

The PO is my FIL, he did a lot of work on it himself but not tranny work.  It appears original and untouched.  Until now LOL.

[ClydesdaleKevin]

Those transmissions are usually bulletproof unless they get overheated at some point in their history.  Bad luck blowing like that.  Good luck fixing it, man.

Kev

[cncsparky]

I agree Kev, these are generally bulletproof trannys.  Problems arise on units like mine that haven't been driven regularly. Worst thing for a vehicle. Found lots of rust in the extension housing area.  The output shaft bearings (2) are rough and rusty along with the steel governor drive gear on the shaft.  Before failure, while pulling my boat the transmission temp was running around 165 deg, perfect.  That is without an external cooler which I'm not convinced yet I need. 



Found a pic of the extension (tail) housing (not mine)



If you find you need to open this end of the transmission, here are some parts I researched numbers on.  The output shaft seal and bearings are not on standard TH400's.  The bearings (2) are National #109 and seal is National # 2457 or SKF # 21111.  The top (red) seal is a standard TH400 output seal and ours is the green one.



Here is a pile of parts I've accumulated so far.  My TH400 will be as good as if not better that stock with updates installed. 
BTW - Found mine and most on here are actually TH475's, heavier duty versions of TH400's.  All parts interchange, but we have straight cut planetary gears (stronger, but noisier) and I understand a lower first gear ratio. 

[TerryH]

 Problems arise on units like mine that haven't been driven regularly. Worst thing for a vehicle.

Totally agree with you here cncsparky. Don't know much about automatics, but I've been told by many that do -
If you don't drive it regularly, every time you start  and run it to keep things lubed in the engine:
1. foot on the brake then put the tranny in gear. Runs the pumps and circulates fluids that lube all of those expensive parts. Having it in Park, from what I've been told won't do this.
2. not tranny related, but if possible, each time you start your rig due to unuse, move it forward and backward a few times,  applying  the brakes to stop. Same thing - gets the fluid moving and lubing the brake system.

Doesn't apply to your situation, and again it is what I've been told, but if it helps someone else.........

Terry

PS If you want to hear an interesting story re the PO of my last boat and the trannies (twin 440's, counter rotating) let me know.
T

[ClydesdaleKevin]

I did hear somewhere that under extreme load, GM transmissions can fail because the pressure build up so much in the torque converter that it can actually balloon, causing transmission damage and failure.  So far, at 120K of extreme load driving, ours is holding up well.  As far as an external cooler, I highly recommend it, especially if you plan on driving and towing in the mountains.

Kev

[cncsparky]

Convertors can balloon, taking out thrust bearings in the engine and/or crushing the tranny pump gears.  But I've only heard of this in racing applications with heavy nitrous use.  Wouldn't worry about it in ours.  I'll add a tranny cooler if I see any temperature running or spikes above 200 deg. . 

[MotorPro]

Happens all the time in stock applications. I have had many engines come in to my shop with the rear of the thrust bearing gone. I then will put in the rebuild contract that the converter must be replaced. I have never had 1 come back if they listened and put in a new converter but I have had engines come back when they didn't replace it and destroyed the thrust again.

[cncsparky]

What causes the ballooning?  Heat? 

[ClydesdaleKevin]

Heat is a part of it, but mostly extreme pressure.

Kev

[MotorPro]

Not sure as I am an engine guy and limited experiance on trans. I do know that the problem seems to be in the converter as it doesn't return after the converter is replaced.

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/turbo-400-causing-engine-front-bearing-failure.662548/

Dave

[cncsparky]

If the convertor truely ballooned, then it would have to be replaced.  Sounds like the potential problem with motor homes exist when the transmission exerts too much fluid pressure on the convertor circuit, causing the convertor to move forward and push against the thrust surface of the engine's crankshaft. 

Thanks Dave for the link!  Very informative.

Will look into the 'full time lube mod' and 'restrictor mod' with some local transmission guys. 

[cncsparky]

Well, new tranny is in  .  A lot of work, but it is on the road again.  I left the RV in MO as we plan to camp there again this summer anyways.  We took a 20 mile trip just to see everything working, would like to take it on a local 100 mile or so drive just to get my confidence back in it.   

[boogie_man]

Great job !!!   You're an inspiration to the moty-ho community   

Scott

[cncsparky]

If your tranny filter pipe is broken, here is a pic and part number of a replacement.  They get old and brittle.  This one fits the deep pan, would be a different one for the shallow pan.  Does not come with an Oring.

[GONMAD]

It's a GOOD practice to use two "O" rings on the suction tube going up into the trans housing. WE also install a light spring on the filter retainer bolt to help hold the filter to the deepest draft & prevent floating the filter. The good filter is of a brass screen type & NOT the dacron element. The good part is you can wash out the screen & see if any debris is there. Regarding the vacuum modulator the 'RED STRIPE unit works really well for an RV & it's adjustable! If the pan doesn't have a magnet inside put one in! It collects any metal "dust" in the fluid & keeps everything happy inside. The more trans coolers the better, It's better to bring the fluid back up to temp than back down. I run a DERALE vented "EXTRA DEEP" pan. My trans holds 22 qts. of fluid & never overheats. YAY!! My brother & I build 400 turbo's to take 800 HP all day long & I consider this to be THE best trans out there bar none & coupled with a Gear vendors over-underdrive there is really nothing to come close. We have two gear vendors units, one in MY P30 & the other in a 1955 Chevy They work flawlessly & bring great satisfaction for results. You can find them used on EBAY & other sites but I recommend a NEW one for your application. That way all the related hardware comes with it. OK I'm done babbling for now, GOOD LUCK in the future GONMAD