U-Joint making odd noise

[The_Handier_Man1]

From: mightybooboo  (Original Message)
Sent: 11/5/2003 1:28 PM

440 dodge,727 tranny,1979 MB 400 chassis,sounds like front u joint toast,want to replace them all,along with the bearing hanger thing that suspends the 2 drivelines.I will use shop to press ujoints,any advice on parts,installing parts or that support bearing thing?Thanks,BooBoo

     Dont know if the ching ching ching is the center bearing. Mine is quiet yet, and the winny is the first chassis Ive worked on where I worried about the center bearing support. But all your audio descriptions would mean a bad U-joint to me too, and the ching ching ching could well be the rusty needle bearings scraping around in the cups. denison

     Place in Ontario Cal can replace the center support bearing with a design incorporating silicone to hold bearing instead of rubber,if its like the urethane used on my volkswagen.that stuff is impervious to oil and tough!After I check em out with the BBB i will take in both shafts and have the whole thing done,all nice and new like.Didnt price it yet,it will be a while but will get back to you all when its done.
BooBoo



From: rshaw500
Sent: 12/6/2003 12:21 AM

I replaced all three u-joints on my 79 Brave.   MOST IMPORTANT THING IS TO BLOCK ALL WHEELS FIRST!    I removed the rear u-joint and then worked my way forward.   I forget what the part is called where the two shafts meet.  It is not hard to get off if you have a long extension with a socket on the end.   You can split the drive shaft to make it easier for you to work on.   I took the whole driveshaft to the place that does trucks.   I can't recall their name but they are nationwide.   The took the old joints out and put the new ones in for about $7.50 a joint.   I think the u-joints themselves were less than $15.00 each.   When you put the drive shaft back in you will have to start from the tranny and work backwards.   When you get the back part of the drive shaft pushed into the middle section you may have to pull it back out and turn it one tooth or so....so it will match up with the yoke on the rear end...you have to do this because you cannot move the yoke seeing how you have the tires all blocked.   I will state one more time.......block at least the two year tires and one of the front....I would block them all.    I hate to remind you but I forgot to do this and my motorhome started to roll  as soon as I broke the yoke free.   I had to scoot out from underneath because I was right in front of the two left rear tires and try to stop my winnie from rolling.
Rick



From: denison
Sent: 12/8/2003 1:48 PM

And to maintain the driveshaft balance, the manual wants you to put it back with the yokes lined up the way they came out. You would mark it before disassembly.
mightybooboo: Did you also get the center bearing replaced? Do you have a part number for it? denison



From: dave76Chieftain
Sent: 12/8/2003 2:20 PM

You do not have to be working on the driveline to have a rolling incident.  I was holding the pull down bed up in the air and the end dipped down and knocked the tranny out of gear.  Of course, I didn't have the parking break on either.  I am trying to just get in the habit of park it, emergency break it, and block it.  I am still a bit nervous of the shear weight of these motor homes and will be for some time to come.

Dave



From: Im-still-Lefty
Sent: 12/11/2003 7:50 PM

The part in the middle that joins the two sections of driveshaft together is called a hanger bearing assembly. The bearing inside is a wear item and should be inspected and/or replaced along with the u-joints. Good tip about the wheel blocks Rick. A 10,000lb Winnie rolling over your chest could result a very, very, bad day. Lefty