Onan 4BGE run/stumble

DaveVA78Chieftain · April 16, 2014, 05:31 PM

Rick,
Hope you did not take my words wrong. I only meant you and I were most likely on the same page and I did not have to get over simplified in my descriptions with you. I know from your comments you and I are thinking along the same lines. I work a 40Hr daytime job is why I am mostly here in the evenings.

If the float is adjusted correctly, the needle and seat are OK, and the fuel pressure is less than 5psi, then I have a hunch the carb will have to be replaced. I know you do not want to hear that though.

This post might provide some info though: http://www.smokstak.com/forum/showpost.php?p=399863&postcount=12

Dave

Rickf1985 · April 16, 2014, 09:14 PM

No offense at all Dave and the wording is fine. Someone down the line will search for this same problem and a complete explanation is better than a short and sweet for most people. At 200.plus for a carb I sure do not want to hear it but I am thinking it also. This unit only has 360 hours on it so I don't really think it is the carb. Once it warms up again I am going to check the points and probably ohm out the coil just to make myself happy. The military vehicles I restore are famous for coil failure and it sounds almost the same. Except that they will not restart until the coil cools off.

DaveVA78Chieftain · April 16, 2014, 09:57 PM

I will keep looking but I am out of ideas for the moment.

Dave

chip2lane · April 16, 2014, 09:59 PM

I have a spec g and it was doing the same thing. Rebuilt the carb at least 5 times. Finally searched e-bay and bought a new one for 78.00. Put it on and she purrs now.

Rickf1985 · April 20, 2014, 01:35 PM

Alright, NOT having a good day. I got to the points and they were set too far open plus they have a pit and transfer on them so they will need replacing. I sanded them a bit to see if resetting them would make a difference and then I pulled the rookie stunt of not looking at all of my tools before starting. Yup, left the allen wrench in the generator end. Cranked it and the allen wrench promptly ripped the four wires out of the plastic plug that goes into the side of the control box by the starter switch. the best I can figure is that this is the remote start? There is NOTHING in any manual I can find for it so I have no clue how to put the wires back in. It is a 8 hole plug with four wires, one purple and three green. Like everything else there are no markings on the wires so I have no freaki' idea where they go or come from. Any help is greatly appreciated, as usual.

DaveVA78Chieftain · April 20, 2014, 04:51 PM

Is this the plug?

If so, then yes, that is the remote start switch plug. With only 4 wires, than I expect you have this style remote:

You are interested in pins 1 (ground), 2 (stop), 3 (Start), and 6 (Lamp). Lamp return is via ground.

http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php/topic,9390.0.html

Wiring diagram - Page 8-4 of the Service manual (965-0528)

Dave

Rickf1985 · April 20, 2014, 06:29 PM

Dave, You are a life saver. My remote switch is different probably due to year but it is still a double throw rocker switch and the light is a little green light next to the switch. NOW, I have to figure out how in the world I am going to find out what wires are what. I have an idea that will work, just need to get the wife involved. Hold the switch in start and check the wires with Ohm meter to see which two are connected, start is done. Do the same for off and that is done and there is only one left. I might actually be able to figure this out!
On the plus side, IT RUNS!!!!!! Purrs right along with a 4,000 watt load. The points were too far open due to a transfer of material on the points. Sanded them some and reset and it fired right up. A little tweaking of the carb and good to go. I just was not buying that "Needs a new carb" at 400 hours.

On edit, I was studying the diagram that I did apparently see and looked right over. W% Yea, that one, and it looks to me like the switch grounds each circuit to make it work? Grounds the start circuit to the same wire as the light and also the stop circuit. Am I reading this right? Just so I know what to look for when I ohm them out to find what is what at the back. The key to the whole thing is the ground wire. Once I find what wire both sides of the rocker switch connect to I have it from there.

DaveVA78Chieftain · April 20, 2014, 10:41 PM

QuoteOn edit, I was studying the diagram that I did apparently see and looked right over. Yea, that one, and it looks to me like the switch grounds each circuit to make it work? Grounds the start circuit to the same wire as the light and also the stop circuit. Am I reading this right? Just so I know what to look for when I ohm them out to find what is what at the back. The key to the whole thing is the ground wire. Once I find what wire both sides of the rocker switch connect to I have it from there.

Yep, the switch provides a momentary path to ground in order to initiate a chain of events (start or stop).

Ground one end of a wire. Go to other end and using a ohm meter, find the wire that is grounded.

Glad to hear you were able t owork through all this. Slowly but surely you have been working it all out so just remember that and keep the faith in the ole girl.

Dave

Rickf1985 · April 21, 2014, 07:32 PM

Plug is repaired, hit the remote button and it fired off on half a crank and ran smooth. Thanks again.

bluebird · April 22, 2014, 10:28 PM

Might as well buy a couple sets of points and condensers. My old onan BFA used to eat points and condensers. I bought mine off of EBAY because the dealer around here robbed me once. If you're going to keep the rig you might want to change it to electronic ign. More reliable, maybe cheaper in the long run.

rushton88 · May 30, 2014, 02:51 AM

Gents - thanks for the detail in conversation regarding this issue. I have had the exact same issue with my gen over the last 2 years and decided this is the summer to fix it. I was delaying dropping it down to work on it and was suspect of points as I have chased lines, filters, plugs and pumps. So... Since it worked for Dave it "must" be the same problem for me. My supply shop wanted + 180$ for the points so I'll clean and reuse first. Thanks for precision work guys.

LJ-TJ · May 30, 2014, 09:03 AM

We all know I don't know what I'm talking about but has any of our gang thought of making a YouTube video on how to clean the points on one of these old girls or how to adjust the carb. So idiots like me might be able to fix ours with out continually bugging you guys. i?? Why can I say this because I don't know what's involved with making a YouTube Video. D:oH!

Rickf1985 · May 30, 2014, 12:08 PM

Well I can tell you that when I cleaned my points with the unit in place I had to use a small mechanics mirror to see the points and could barely get my hands over the engine. No way could you make a video there. Only way would be if it were out of the vehicle. And if it is out I am going to replace the points and condenser at that time.

Rick

legomybago · May 30, 2014, 12:49 PM

Ours in on a swing down hinge. you lower it with a floor jack, and you have great access to work on the top. We just did this job, I wish I knew how to post to utube, I'd maybe do that W%

DaveVA78Chieftain · May 30, 2014, 07:48 PM

How To Make A YouTube Video Part 1

How To Make A YouTube Video Part 2

Dave

legomybago · June 02, 2014, 11:59 AM

Dave is trying to make us "Techie"

I'm terrible at that stuff... W% maybe someday.....

Typhoon_Tommy · November 10, 2019, 11:57 PM

I know this is an old thread, but I am the proud (a-hem) new owner of an '89 RV. Having some issues, but thankfully I found this site!

Points and condenser are on their way. Hopefully my GenSet is the drop-down style, haven't looked that close yet, was just planning on going over the top with an endoscope, and surgeon my way through the process.