No Plumbing? Here's a "How to" for begginners!

[TheSportsmanDodger]

Greetings, winnedodger here

today i will be giving you a free word to mouth plumbing schematic that will enable you to design your own SCH 40 plumbing based off your chassis line

Things you will need:

5 schedrule 3/4 40 pipe lines  (MUST BE REAR TIRE TO FRONT TIRE LENGTH) grade  according to what temp you need.

1 1/2 sch 40 pipe ( length must be at least 5 feet) skip this item if your toilet is a standard rv toilet with hose connections.

1 hand saw or electric saw.

measuring tape.

A list of pvc threaded adapters, copper fittings to join hoses to pvc which will allow you to connect your sink tank and or tub.  (make sure everything is ansi & astme CERTIFIED)

Make a list of elbows, tees,  and adapters that can help change the 3/4 transitionings to 1/2 at the toilet.

1 drillset. (perferable with drill bore hole bit)

Pvc Primer and pvc cement (can be purchased in packaged set)

minimum of 5-7 Flame Retardant tube Pipe Insulation.

(note: do not attempt if your brain does not work in 2 parsects without paper) please use paper for best resault.


FIRST off what you want to do is slide the first pipe under your rv.

line your plumbing in the chassis line or on the outside of the chassis facing toward your tranny (if you have the setup where your water tank and pump is in the rear).

take a rope and tie the pvc to the chassis, in 3 positions to support the pipe.

check the clearence between your shock on the drivers rear side and make sure your pipe fits snuggly between your bumper stop and shock without any signs of rubbage or pinching.  on my 73 there is 0 touching of parts near or on the pipe.

next you want to bore a 3/4  hole in the floor (if not present) ie for new floor installer.

next pull your pipe up or push back depending on your position lined with the hole.

Next cut a small amount of pvc enough for slight vibration play near the tank and slide it through the floor. IF necessary use 2 3/4 elbows to ensure that the pipe is streight after cutting your first set of pipes.

Next go back up to your water heater and bore 2 holes 3/4 in the floor behind the tank.  (Mark hot and cold outlet on the tank if not docemented.

CUT two pieces of pipe the approximate length needed to meet the first pipe under the floor at the chassis and slide them through the floor. Connect with  3/4 proper elbows then glue with pvc primer and pvc glue.
wait for them to sit the cure time.

AFTER CURED, add a 3/4 pipe that runs horizontally of the first chassis pipe  ( cut to the length of your motorhome side skirt in length), then slide gentally over top of the gas tank.

keep cutting til it meets with the  your first pipe on your chassis that goes to the water heater.

before you cut make sure your 3/4 is all the way at the back of the wall.

after your cut is made, take the pvc system first installed on the chassis and cut it in half and install a 3/4 tee that joins With  the vertical pipe that you stqrted with.

connect the tee then go under your sink, determine where to bore the hole in the floor.

Mine run close to the filler kneck on the opposit side close to the door.

NOTE: DO NOT DRILL UNTIL YOUR HOLE UNTIL YOUR SURE IT IS EXACT.
in addition for those with filler kneck issues such as leaks i reccomend only using a chizel and knock the hole in by hand with the addition of hand sanding the hole to 3/4.

ok, after you finish that, last is
add your elbow which links your cold and or hot water, depending on your outlets.

[Stripe]

So this is for if you want to redo the plumbing I take it..

[TheSportsmanDodger]

yep. for those who prefwr sch 40 over pex.

[Lefty]

Just a FYI:

Sch40/sch80 refers to plastic pvc pipe conforming to the standard sizes of steel pipes of the same EXTERNAL ID.
Example: 3/4" SCH40 and 3/4" SCH80 both have the same external ID as 3/4" Steel threaded pipe... but the SCH80 will have a smaller internal diameter due to a thicker wall.


PVC pipe REQUIRES a primer be used when you glue the connections. The primer softens the PVC so that the glue can chemically weld the two pieces together. Using the glue by itself will cause the joint to not weld together properly.

Neither SCH40 or SCH80 are rated for temperature resistance... making them unsuitable for use in hot water supply. CPVC is for high heat resistance, and is what is required for hot water supply by national plumbing code. CPVC requires a different glue (typically Orange), as PVC, and is sized the same as PEX, meaning you can use PX fittings on CPVC or mate CPVC to Pex connections seamlessly.

The black pipes used for the waste water on older rigs is not PVC. It is ABS. It requires a completely different glue, as PVC cement will not stick to it, causing joints to leak (or even completely separate.) In most instances, the sizing standards of PVC and ABS are not the same. Which means fitting a PVC fitting onto an ABS pipe (or a PVC pipe into an ABS fitting) will result in a poorly fitted joint that will not seal.
Green PVC pipe stamped "SDR" is available, and is designed specifically for waste water. It should fit the same fittings as ABS.

"yellow" PVC is a special type of PVC rated for natural gas or propane... As regular PVC pipe will allow the gas to seep thru the walls of the pipe.It requires it's own fittings and connectors, also yellow, as well as it's own type of primer/glue.

"Grey" PVC is meant for electrical conduit.

The color coding is intentional, it isdesigned so professionals and technicians can quickly identify systems based on the color of pipe they see.
"White"- general water distribution, both potable and non-potable, Cold Water Only

"Cream"- CPVC Hot Water Supply

"Yellow" - Natural or Propane Gas

"Grey" - Electrical Power

"Black or Green"- Waste Water/Sanitary Sewer

Note: I realize that 90% of the time people use Sch40 PVC for both hot & cold water... I have myself. But it is actually not rated for hot water... so that's the info I'm sharing.

[legomybago]

CPVC works great with PEX...I've used that in homes..but I don't like the idea of having "glued" water pressure joints in a motorhome!! To much vibration.

SCH40 and 80 are used for burying electrical in the ground and for use in exterior electrical wiring jobs, 80 is UV resistant I beleive, 60 is not?...I've never heard of people using it for water? Didn't know you could/should?

Good write up Lefty

Thats my opinion.... W%

[joev]

I am glad to see that some people have looked up the difference between PVC, ABS,and pex piping . they all have there uses for certain jobs and mixing them up using them for the wrong application only causes problems and nightmares for the next owners of the rig . You all know that quote " What the Blank did they do "

[legomybago]

If we could only complile all the "PO" fixes we've all read about on this forum.....There would be some interesting reading

[Stripe]

It is, it's in the ongoing song on the site.. 

Somewhere in here... http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php/topic,8851.0.html