Getting our 1989 Winnebago Warrior 22EC ready for the road...

Bnova · August 13, 2015, 09:22 PM

What were the vacuum numbers?

DaveVA78Chieftain · August 13, 2015, 10:08 PM

QuoteVacuum gauge readings: at idle 18-19, 50 mph 13-14 inches.

Those numbers look fine to me.

M & J · August 13, 2015, 10:53 PM

Same here.

Rickf1985 · August 14, 2015, 10:23 AM

Quote from: engineer bill on August 13, 2015, 11:09 AM
Yes, I'll definately be going back to my mechanic Danny at ALL FLOW in Martinez CA. The only reason I mentioned the $ figure and the things he told me I didn't need yet was because I realize how easily this could have cost $$$ instead of $. He's been pretty good to me.

My vacuum numbers seem a little low to me, seems like I might still have a leak?

And Danny is a smart businessman. A happy customer that realizes that you did not charge them for stuff they did not need absolutely will be a return customer. You will make more money from that customer, and from the people they refer to you, than you ever would have by doing work that was not needed or overcharging. Not only that, you can save a fortune in advertising costs because you will get all the business you can handle just in word of mouth referrals.

engineer bill · August 14, 2015, 06:34 PM

I bought two Drok brand digital temperature meters and some 12' extensions for the temperature probes. Soldered it all up, shrink tubed and routed one cable out my grommet to the front of the Winne. The other cable I routed around behind the driver's seat. I'm not sure yet just where to mount the probes but definitely away from the cooling system heat. Now, I'll have inside/outside air temperature readings in my center console for about $30.

In the process, feeling around in there on the top of the radiator, I found first of all a loose vacuum hose and then a minute later a matching connection point on the cruise control actuator. Just pushed it on. My hope is that will fix the CC but way too hot today to fire up the Winne just to try out the CC.

Rickf1985 · August 14, 2015, 08:26 PM

Didn't you have that hose fall off before? Might be time to replace it, or at least cut the end off for a fresh piece to hold on to.

engineer bill · August 15, 2015, 03:15 PM

Quote from: Rickf1985 on August 14, 2015, 08:26 PM
Didn't you have that hose fall off before? Might be time to replace it, or at least cut the end off for a fresh piece to hold on to.

Maybe you're thinking of the discussion of loose/missing vacuum hoses and inoperative hvac controls? Anyway, yeah, I trimmed off a bit and stuck it on. I'll add it to my list to pick up some new vacuum hose in that size.

A bunch of people have commented that they got their cc working by just re-connecting the hose. My cc switches were shot and I fixed that and so I hope this does the trick. (Lot's of long, straight, flat driving here.)

I've got a bunch of stuff to post on busted switches and such that I'm working on but not quite ready.

Rover71 · August 15, 2015, 04:15 PM

We have nearly always towed with our '89 P-30 Itasca- since buying in '95 with 41 K, for nearly 200 K , latest being a '06 CR-V ,handles it well. Recently installed an SMI tow brake bought at a yard sale, very good system.

engineer bill · August 15, 2015, 04:47 PM

Quote from: Rover71 on August 15, 2015, 04:15 PM
We have nearly always towed with our '89 P-30 Itasca- since buying in '95 with 41 K, for nearly 200 K , latest being a '06 CR-V ,handles it well. Recently installed an SMI tow brake bought at a yard sale, very good system.

Is that the "Stay-In-Play" system with the air cylinder mounted directly to the brake pedal arm?

engineer bill · August 29, 2015, 07:51 PM

Quote from: Stripe on June 23, 2014, 04:53 PMSame here, reconnected a vacuum lane and BAM I had a working CC..

I finally got around to checking out the cruise vacuum hose. I found the vacuum reservoir and the loose end of the hose but I'm having a heck of a time finding the connecting port on the cc vacuum actuator (by feel from the front). Can anyone give me some idea where to find it? I'll post a picture of what I can see but I've felt all around it and no luck. I probably felt all around it for ten minutes.

Rickf1985 · August 30, 2015, 07:11 PM

Bill, you should have a larger vacuum hose coming out of the side of the unit and wrapping around towards the bracket and re-entering at the top rear. Next to that large line, on the side and towards the bracket is where the small vacuum line from the reservoir is attached.

engineer bill · August 30, 2015, 11:01 PM

Humm... I'm not seeing or feeling anything like that. Maybe a job for my mechanic. It does have a number of electrical connections and appears to have a cable (as expected) exiting toward the rear, toward the carb throttle cable. No vacuum connections that I can find or I should say, feel. But I do have that loose vacuum hose. BTW, earlier, when I thought I was pushing it on I was actually trying to push it on the end of a small screw sticking out. :)rotflmao I'll try again in the morning.

engineer bill · September 16, 2015, 01:52 PM

cruise control actuator? see photo. I'm not seeing or feeling any hose connections at all. It does have a number of electrical connections.

legomybago · September 16, 2015, 03:26 PM

If that actuator is bolted down on top of the upper radiator support, make sure the actuator is grounded good. The radiators are wrapped in an upper and lower shell, that sit in/on top of rubber isolators on a cross member. I think the main grounding point for the radiator assembly would be the radiator support arm that runs up on top down to the frame on the passenger side.

ClydesdaleKevin · September 16, 2015, 07:00 PM

In all the years we have been full timers, I have never used the cruise control on the RV. It used to work, and I tried it a few times. But I would rather feather the gas pedal myself and conserve gas, than how the cruise control used to pretty much floor the gas pedal to get back up to speed. When it developed a vacuum leak, I removed the whole system.

Kev

Rickf1985 · September 16, 2015, 08:34 PM

Have you found the cruise control control box? Mine is on the floor behind the pedals and if I remember correctly it is made by Delphi. What you show there is similar to mine but mine has a couple vacuum hoses that your obviously does not have. It amazes me how they use so many different systems in these, even in the same years.

engineer bill · September 16, 2015, 09:46 PM

Here's my cc box. It's mounted ahead of the doghouse, under the dash. I think the suggestion that I check the ground is an excellent one.

engineer bill · September 16, 2015, 09:49 PM

We have just left the SF Bay Area this afternoon for Oregon. Now keeping in mind the longstanding drought in California, we're sheltering in place in Sycamore Grove Campground due to heavy rain. Gotta love it!

Rickf1985 · September 17, 2015, 07:05 AM

On anything low voltage grounds are the biggest problem. As the voltage gets lower the grounds get more critical. Engine computer systems on the fuel injected units run on 5 volt and 12 volt with the O2 sensors running up to 900 millivolts. A bad ground on one of these could mean run or no run since digital is either on of off.

On yours Bill the cruise looks just like mine but they may all look similar and could even be the same brand but a different model. The ground should be checked but don't get your hopes up, there is a big support rod on the passenger side from the frame to the top of that radiator support so I am guessing the ground is good. BUT, Like I said, grounds are the biggest electrical problem.

legomybago · September 17, 2015, 01:15 PM

The only reason I have the grounding idea is, when I first bought the 86' p30, it soon needed a radiator re-core and all the other wonderful to get to stuff updated, and the cruise didn't work, I have the manual for our cruise system, and did there whole trouble shooting list, and everything checked out power wise? So after I replaced the radiator and remounted the cruise actuator, THE CRUISE HAS WORKED GREAT FOR THE LAST 4 YEARS!!! The only thing I did was removed and re install the actuator assembly. And that's why I think it was a grounding issue. Who knows...

DaveVA78Chieftain · September 18, 2015, 08:55 PM

QuoteIt amazes me how they use so many different systems in these, even in the same years.

All the speed control hardware (cruise control) Winnebago used (yes Winnebago not Chevrolet or GMC) in this era is listed in the 84-88 Common Item Parts book

Includes Wiring diagram, vacuum diagram, parts, etc.

You just have to figure out which of the 8 versions applies to your setup.

Given the similarities, I have a hunch the troubleshooting procedures in the Chevy Service manual can still be used though.

Rickf1985 · September 18, 2015, 10:01 PM

That was one I did not have saved on file. I have it now.

engineer bill · September 18, 2015, 10:02 PM

Thanks Dave. Our's is as pictured on E11-E12. Except that the release valve seems to be missing. Not too far fetched considering the rogues who overhauled the cooling system forgot to re-install a number of things. Like, for example the nuts that secure the cooling system subframe to the frame. Yep, just left the radiator assembly loose in there bouncing around. I'll pull the doghouse again to try for a better look when we get home. We're currently camping in Southern Oregon at the Valley of the Rogue River State Park. Very, very nice here.

legomybago · September 21, 2015, 10:29 AM

QuoteWe're currently camping in Southern Oregon at the Valley of the Rogue River State Park. Very, very nice here.

Hey, your about 7-8 miles north of where I live!

engineer bill · September 21, 2015, 10:49 AM

Quote from: legomybago on September 21, 2015, 10:29 AM
Hey, your about 7-8 miles north of where I live!

Wow, small world. We've been here at site F16 since Thursday and have just gotten up and are preparing to get underway. We're going to start our drive, over two days, back to the SF Bay area today. What are your plans for today?