Getting our 1989 Winnebago Warrior 22EC ready for the road...

[sasktrini]

Sorry to hear about the tools... glad you are still progressing.  Those tiny wires on the multiswitches are a pain, huh?

[eXodus]

maybe just get a later model switch and try to fit it in ?


http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Multi-Function-Switch-Turn-Signal-Lever-Delay-Wiper-Cruise-Control-/331079549381?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1994%7CMake%3AChevrolet&hash=item4d15e101c5&vxp=mtr


I've got this one and it does it's job.
Has the same functions as yours - minus the High and low beam.

[engineer bill]

Have found that if I connect the white wire to the white wire (0 ohms resistance),  then touching power to the black wire yields just one slow wipe. I think this means that a variable resistance between the white wires will control the intermittant wipers. I was able to find a basic (no electronic controls) turn signal arm from Mill Supply so now I can pull the wheel, take out the turn lever and replace it and then measure the resistance of the "Smart Stick."

[engineer bill]

I lucked into an unmolested 1991 Suzuki Samurai. This should be a great towed car. ~ 2000 lb. 4WD, jeep-like vehicle. I'm working on getting a receiver hitch built for the Winnebago (or Winne) and tow bar attachments on the front of the Samurai (or Sammi).


We finally hooked up the Sammi and towed it with the Wiine on Jan 27. It towes great.

[engineer bill]

After all I did for him/it department...

Fate reached out and bit me the other day. My little Samurai tow car (hereafter known as Sammi), rolled forward on a very slight hill and crushed my left knee. I have a "tibial plateau fracture" and ligament/tendon trauma that are going to keep me laid up for a couple of months, at least. And it is really, really hard for me to sit still.

We had just returned from the first shakedown ride with it (Sammi) being towed by the Winnebago (hereafter known as Winne). (That day, I had finally completed the big project of setting up the rig (tow receiver, custom baseplate, second hand Falcon 2 tow bar,  Sammi tow wiring harness, new 7-flat wiring sockets both ends & custom cable, safety chains, aux. braking system with breakaway-the whole enchilada.) Arriving home in the dark, I put the Winne in park, set the parking/emergency brake and chocked the Winne tires. The next morning, my mechanic called to tell me he could squeeze the Sammi in to repair the little water pump gasket cooling leak, if I could get it RIGHT DOWN there. Now keeping in mind that I usually have checklists for everything, but not yet, for this. I ran out and pulled the tow bar clevis pins. I was disconnecting the chains and electrical when to my astonishment I noticed the Sammi had started rolling forward. Before I could do much more than drop my jaw it had me. PLEASE, PLEASE  DON'T TELL ME HOW LAME I WAS-I KNOW, PLEASE RESIST THE TEMPTATION TO LECTURE ME.

But it is kind of interesting: generally speaking, I am very, very carefull about everything, but the combination of being in a hurry and an unfamiliar mechanical process bit me. This is pretty embarassing to admit but I decided to post about it here because: #1 I thought it might might make someone else think twice and keep them from being hurt, #2 explain the sudden lack of progress on my projects, and #3 get me a little bit of sympathy.

[Froggy1936]

Well Bill, Not to lecture (just a sugestion). At our age or at any age never allow yourself to be rushed for any reason (except fire or flood) Thing dont work out well especially with unfamilular situations .  Have ing hooked up and unhooked my boat 100,s of times with no problem, I pulled the release lever after returning from a trip to the river , And the latch lever trapped my figer between  it and the bottom of the spare tire,on the back of the winnie  Due to it was the first time disconnecting after uping the engine from a 65 horse to a 115 HP  I did not account for the extra weight on the rear When i finally figured out how to get loose  I could see the bone in my finger Though there was not a lot of bleeding yet .  These type,s of errors  really make you mad at yourself . Best wishes on your healing Frank

[Rickf1985]

Ouch! Knee injuries are the worst! I have had enough of them, including one replacement. Well lucky that was all the damage done, could have been worse.

[M & J]

#3 Bill. We learn as we go.

[engineer bill]

Many thanks guys.

I bought some ramps to get out of the house from Amazon. Now I'm working on getting my wife to move the cars, open the garage door and rearrange all my "stuff" so I can roll in there on the chair.

I'm also trying to talk her through installing the "Club" and the "Boot" on the Samurai.

[engineer bill]

I just installed "Dynamat" insulation on the inside of the doghouse. What a difference! Now we don't have to yell to communicate driving down the road. It does still kind of feel like we have a campfire between us but I understand there is another product called "Dynaliner" that can be layered on and will really reduce the heat transfer.

[TerryH]

Try or talk (message) to:
http://www.dupreeproducts.com/
He is a member here and may be a source for either material or information.  Not touting either a particular company or a member, but could be a valuable info source.

[eXodus]

Maybe you've got a fan problem ? Is your fan-clutch still working ?

I did put dynamat on and the doghouse is not getting even warm anymore. Have you got some mat leftover ? I put my leftovers under the metal left and right of my doghouse. There are the exhaust pipes which radiant most of the heat.

[lemortede]

OK, I am going down this maddening road of replacing the all in one "Smart Stick" on my 1988 Chieftain 22.
I am looking at the option of moving the Wipers and bright control to the Dash via a switch.
I am a little confused on the cruise control though.
I am looking at the option of using http://www.thecruisecontrolstore.com/250-3020-early-model-gm-column-cruise-control-switch/ but I dont know if I need to get the MR-20 adapter as well.
I have a Dana Cruise control module 2807985-af.
Is that a Rostra? If I do need that adapter I am not sure I am understanding how it fits in to the wiring.
Do I only use one of the 2 of the 3 connections or does the 250-3020 have 2 connectors on it.
Sorry for the questions. I have spent hours trying to not re-invent the wheel.

[engineer bill]

The "Smart Switch" provides "logic level" signals to the three control boxes under the dash for high/low beam, wipers and cruise control. The boxes do the actual switching.

I'm going to use two toggle switches to replace the cruise control functions: a SPST On-Off switch and a SPDT (momentary contact) (On)-(On).

All of this assumes of course that the actual cruise control box, vacuum hoses, canister and actuator hardware on your coach still works. Since a whole new cc kit costs less than $200, that might be the way to go if anything else is broken.

Of the 13 tiny wires that were connected to the "Smart Switch", Red is the common "12 v hot", Brown is on, Yellow is Set/Decel, and Green is Resume/Accel. There is a schematic in the Motor Home Chassis Service Guide. I have some pictures of a disassembled Smart Switch that I used to figure out the wiring. They are interesting.  I'll post them soon when I'm at my desk.

I believe that the old Dana Corp cruise control business is now owned by Rostra. I don't know about the switch and adapter they offer except that I thought they were kind of expensive, and, I enjoy rolling my own.

- - - - - -

I have more confidence about the other functions:

orange-orange (momentary connection to other orange cycles high beam, low beam) I used an old fashioned high beam foot switch here.

white (connect to other white thru variable resistance 0-750K ohm potentiometer to set delay value. 0 ohm gives a very long delay, 750,000 ohms gives a very short delay. I used a Mouser Electronics p/n: 785-53C3750K about $8)

The following function when connected to +12 volts:
grey=wiper low speed with park function
purple=wiper high speed with park function
black=intermittant (see white-white above for delay value)
note: connect power to only one at a time...
pink=wash
dk blue=don't know

I used toggle switches. Morris Wiring Products is a good source for toggle switches.

I was really happy to figure out the wipers because my PO had butchered the wipers-connecting power directly and bypassing the Park circuit which is the part that continues to move the wipers off the windshield even if you switch them off in mid-cycle.

[engineer bill]

eXodus-
I have some pieces and I'll put them under the floor. Good idea.

[engineer bill]

Some Photos of the "Smart Switch" autopsy:

[engineer bill]

a couple of more photos of the "Smart Switch" autopsy:

[engineer bill]

So, I've been wondering about this:


If I have the engine running and then the alternator is charging the start battery, AND, I have the generator running and charging the coach battery, does something bad happen if the dual battery solenoid-relay is switched on? Do the two charging systems play nice?
i??

[sasktrini]

Thinking out loud…


Generator running, connected to coach batteries and sending nominal current to charge them.  Generator alone takes long time to charge batteries.


Converter / charger running off generator AC rapidly charges the batteries.  Realize now that both the generator and charger are charging the battery bank.  So we know that two charging sources are alright in this capacity.


Add the solenoid, activated by alternator or a switch to add the engine battery in parallel to the bank.  Doesn't really matter that more than one charging source is applying a charge to the battery bank.


Only concern I wonder is if you are using a high output alternator.  Only risk would be whether the converter / charger could handle the DC amperage.  I might play it safe and switch off the charger breaker while running the engine.

[Froggy1936]

I remember seeing a warning Not to run Generator charging system at the same time as engine charging system (using dead battery switch ) The alternator voltage regulator will shi- the bed !  Frank

[Rickf1985]

I have read that warning in the manual. I have accidentally started mine with the switch in the dual position and my alternator survived but I would not want to keep pushing my luck. If the regulator is trying to reduce voltage and keeps seeing more then bad things will probably happen.

[eXodus]

Since the Alternator is normally charging with somewhere 13.6-14v the  Converter/Charger should probably just shut off since they normally stop charging over 13.6v.


There are cars out there with dual alternator setup, they are also working ? During my studies of electronic we regularly hooked together two or three chargers to get a battery back up full charge. All in parallel, never had any problems.
There a lot of people these days which run the generator while driving to let the roof Air running. And since most converters are hardwired without a switch or separate breaker it should be idiot proof.


I'm not saying you will never get any problems but since all power is going to the batteries and neither alternator nor charger is accepting any charge ? what the heck.

[engineer bill]

Thanks everyone for your comments on the simultaneous charging question.

[engineer bill]

Getting back to the cruise control switch. I have not had any success with making my own switches, that work, per the wiring diagram/schematic in the MH manual. I'm throwing in the towel here. Too many other things need attention.


And, you really need to be able to switch it on to troubleshoot it beyond missing vacuum hoses.


So, I've been looking on cruisecontro.com at these two items from cruisecontrol.com:


250-3020 Early GM Column CC Switch, $39.99
MR-20 Closed Circuit to Open Circuit Switch Adapter, $59.95


Has anyone out there gone this route? What's with the adapter harness. I haven't seen anything in the MH P-30 Manual to enlighten me.

[JerryP]

Enjoying read your adventures, and misadventures
Keep posting