Started working on the Itasca tonight

Started by Alaskan Itasca, June 03, 2014, 04:38 AM

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Alaskan Itasca

After having to tent camp over the holiday, I finally have a little time to tackle the death wobble on the Itasca so I can actually get out and camp not in a tent....I like plumbing and showers too much.

So I got started at about 9pm tonight and worked until almost sunset, I thought about working until dark, but then realized that is in August so I didn't get very far since I can't be beating on things in the street at 10:30 at night....but I did get the shock off, the cotter pins out and the castle nuts loosened on the passenger side. I'm guessing the shock that was on there was not an rv shock as it is tiny in comparison to the new shock. Tomorrow I hope I can get the lower ball joint and tie rod to pop loose without destroying them, despite my efforts on other projects I have never been successful with the beat on the side of the arm until the joint pops loose.

I have my new shock, new damper, new spring and bag, bump stop and sway bar bushings ready to go once I get it apart.

new vs. Old. I as a little worried at first, but the old one is completely dead and all the way in and the new one is of course all the way out, it fits in the hole just fine though.


It is sitting on the bump stop just sitting there I think it will probably raise it up a bit once it is all replaced.



Well That's all I have for now, I probably won't get much done tomorrow since my boy has swim lessons at 6:50 so Another late start means I can't be banging on stuff for long.
1978 Itasca 27RT - RIP
1992 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 30E

GONMAD

Sitting on the bumpstop is not good. It looks like you need new front springs or at least a set of air bags to get it sitting correctly. You ride will be considerably smoother with either addition. The new HD springs are by far the best way to go but it's a little pricey at $300.00 a pair. Many (myself included) have gone with air bags as they are cheaper but a major pain to install unless you have disassembled the front components. The problem with the airbags is they DO NOT last very long, requiring attention over & over.  Good luck in your endeavors.   GONMAD

Stripe

I dunno about US$300 a pair but have you seen my post on replacing the springs on a chevy p30?

http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php/topic,7759.msg36431.html#msg36431

I know I might catch flack for this but I got the HD springs from Autozone.  Good value and they are still holding up strong..

I think I paid US$170 plus tax..
Fredric,
Captain of the Ground Ship "Aluminum Goose"
28' Holiday Rambler Imperial 28

Alaskan Itasca

I did see your post, and I got my airbags from the same place, even with shipping it was cheaper than the amazon price for them, since Amazon did not have free shipping on that one for me.

I got all the rest of my parts from Amazon from a place that gave a 5% discount for every item after the 1st, so I got all my parts from the same place which ended negating the shipping since Amazon would not ship that stuff to Alaska for free.

I decided to go with regular springs and airbags after reading many post for and against both setups I decided to go with the bags since I could adjust the ride some with them and with the spring only setup it is what it is. The spring only option was also more expensive than a spring and airbag setup which was also a factor. If the bags do go bad before this RV ends up at the scrap yard I can replace them pretty quickly (without shoving them through the hole in the bottom) now that I know how this comes apart.

I got the new shock, damper, airbag, and spring installed on the right side last night, I started about 7:30 and got finished at about midnight (this whole no dark thing is nice, i tried to be real quiet once it got to be after 10 pm though). I got the ball joint and tie rod to pop out with a few good whacks with my BFH (big fing hammer) and the lower arm just swung down. I probably need to replace the ball joints, but I don't have a press ( I have friends with them though) and don't want to mess with it right now, so I will probably save that for next year (maybe I'll let a shop tackle them next year). The  upper ball joint is still rivited in so it's a 1978 original....

I did have to grind down the bottom of the shock mount since the metal tube through the bottom was wider than the bracket, so a few minutes on the grinder and all was well. I changed out the top bolt on the shock mount which was not as hard as I thought it would be after using some liquid wrench on it. The damper went right in and the old damper was completly dead, there was no oil in it and the shaft had no resistance at all. The new one is twice the size, I wouldn't be surprised if the old one was original.

The spring went right back in where it was suppoed to go, it did take me a little while to figure out how to get it in there straight with the coil lined up in the mount correctly, but once I figured that out it went right in. I used the floor jack to push the arm back up so I could reconnect the ball joint. I used the bottle jack on the hub to hold it staight and keep it out of the way of the lower arm while I was getting the spring back in.

once i got it all back together I put about 70 pounds of air in the airbag and will check to see if held the pressure tonight when I get home. THe rig is siiting at least 4 inches taller, I have a stool by the door that used to be too tall, when used in the yard, to open the door, now it's a good 2-3 inches under the door. I know it will settle down a bit once I drive it around and settle everything in place.

I also replaced the sway bar bushing and bumpstop.

now I have to do the left side and both rear shocks. then get at least two tires and an allignment. THe cheapest I have found tires up here is $312.00 mounted. Finding 8r19.5 tires is kind of tough up here I have only found two commercial tire place that sell them so far.

I may look into the rear air bag system next summer to raise up the back.

anyway some more pictures....
parts knocked loose

Old damper

old parts with new parts

New parts

more new parts

how it sits now

sorry it's a little dark but it was midnight when I took this one...

1978 Itasca 27RT - RIP
1992 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 30E

Stripe

Fredric,
Captain of the Ground Ship "Aluminum Goose"
28' Holiday Rambler Imperial 28

M & J

M & J

Alaskan Itasca

I'm probably going to take a break tonight, parts of me are sore that should not be sore, sitting on that little wood border  on the rv spot has left me bruised in weird places....

I almost want to jump in and go around the block to see if the ride is better with 1/2 the front done lol. I'm ready to go camping.....

1978 Itasca 27RT - RIP
1992 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 30E

M & J

Patience Grasshopper. Great things come to those who wait.
M & J

Stripe

Indeed. 

Love seeing the end result of the work tho'..  Good amount of lift recovered.. Also dun forget to get re-aligned..  I did after getting bugged about it to death by everyone here, lol.. :D

How much air (if any) did you put in the bags when you took the pics?
Fredric,
Captain of the Ground Ship "Aluminum Goose"
28' Holiday Rambler Imperial 28

Alaskan Itasca

I got the left side it wasn't as bad as the right side as far as sag goes, but the shock was dead. This side went way faster than the other side since I now knew how to do it.

There is now a noticable reverse rake I need to do airbags in the back so I can level it out, I also still have to install the rear shocks.....I also have an alignment scheduled for later this week and have to get three new tires as well. The front ones are worn bald on the inside, and the spare is in use on the front since one of the fronts corded on the inside and that spare has cracked side walls it is old.....I'm trying to figure out where the date code is on the double coin tires on the back so I can see how old those are.

Before:

during: I had to grind of the bushing so it was flush on the bottom of the new shock so it would fitin the mount.



old parts:



after:



1978 Itasca 27RT - RIP
1992 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 30E

ClydesdaleKevin

Yep.  When I ordered new shocks for our Holiday Rambler, the Monroe part numbers didn't exactly line up...and MUCH and MANY alterations were done...lol!

Kev
Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

Stripe

Fredric,
Captain of the Ground Ship "Aluminum Goose"
28' Holiday Rambler Imperial 28

Alaskan Itasca

I got the rear shocks done tonight they took all of 45 minutes to do. The old shocks were completely dead I pushed them in and they stayed there...I bet it stops bouncing all together now, the difference in the front was huge, I can't wait to see if I notice anything in the back.

I still need to add some airbags in the back to bring the back end up to be even with the front, but that will have to wait for a while,

1978 Itasca 27RT - RIP
1992 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 30E

GONMAD

Hi Guys & Gals!!   Regarding the rear airbags I switched to the Firestone units as they seem tougher & utilize a double bellows design as opposed a single type bag that the Airlift offers. I used the Airlift bags AFTER removing the Timbrens I used for extreme tongue weight loads I was moving at the time. While the Airlift rode very good one developed an annoying leak on one side making the ride unstable. I bartered & traded for a set of Firestone units & used the metal Ferrell  fittings rather than the push on type (which I replaced once already). I suspect the push on type needed an insert inside the hose end & they did not come supplied with the kit. I now have no more leaking rear bags & the ride is stable. One less thing to have to worry about on trips anymore. As for the fronts One Airlift bag leaks profusely & needs replacing already only after a few years service... kinda disappointed I'm thinking new Moog dual energy springs that have two different spring rates & maintain ride integrity no matter how loaded or unloaded. With Bilstien shocks  it already rides great. Just chiming in, Hope this helps someone in the future.....GONMAD

Alaskan Itasca

I'll keep that in mind and spring for the fire stones.I don't know what a ferrell fitting is but I imagine Google can solve that probelm.

I just spent $939.00 on three tires (yea for Alaska prices...) and I still have a $200.00 allignment to do tomorrow, so the rear bags will probably be next spring. My front tires and the spare were so old they didn't have date codes on them....The rears are newer they have a date code of 2001....So I really need 4 more tires which will also have to wait until next year as well.

I did drive around the block last night and it rides completly different....I still have a rattle over the speed humps which is likely one or all of the 3000 ball joints on the front end of that thing.... I did lose all the bounce I used to get going over the humps and I aimed for the potholes with the right side and the death wobble and steering wheel shake appears to be gone. I can't wait to get out there and go camping.

1978 Itasca 27RT - RIP
1992 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 30E

Stripe

Quote from: Alaskan Itasca on June 25, 2014, 04:25 PM
I'll keep that in mind and spring for the fire stones.I don't know what a ferrell fitting is but I imagine Google can solve that probelm.

Here is a link to a photo of a Ferrule Fitting..

http://photos.tradeholding.com/attach/hash232/107752/tu.jpg
Fredric,
Captain of the Ground Ship "Aluminum Goose"
28' Holiday Rambler Imperial 28

Alaskan Itasca

Well the allignment guy said I installed all my parts correctly. I having them fix one other part that is loose and will keep them from shiming the thing correctly for an allignment that will stay put, It'san $80.00 part and an hour of labor, so I said do it....

He said the drag links and bell cranks are a bit loose and have some small play which when all added together makes for bigger play but is still fine for getting a good allignment. THey will give me a list of things I should repalce and are happy to sell me the parts if I want to do it myself.

The part I figured would be shot are fine he said the ball joints are still good, even though they are original. The uppers are still riveted in....I figured they would be shot being 36 years old.

Anyway after the allignment guy is done the carb guy will step in and look at my tuning and try to figure out what is going on there... THen it looks like the brake light switch chose now to fail, the brake lights won't turn off now....I love the ugly old beast even though it threatens to empty our bank account....
1978 Itasca 27RT - RIP
1992 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 30E

Alaskan Itasca

Well I got it back and the steering wheel is straight and it only cost $768.00....

I had the upper control arm shaft replaced for the allignment, but then I had to have a wire harnes with a fusable link that feeds the HEI coil replaced since it was burned up and grounding to the block causing some of my lack of power issues. $9.00 of parts 3 hours to rebuild it (he also chaecked the carb and timing during that three hours)....I have an exaust leak that melted the 2 middle plug wires on the right side causing the backfire....So I had them put on a couple of the spare plug wires I carry in there and I ordered some 2000 degree Ceramic booted plug wires ($120 from autozone free shipping to Alaska and a $35.00 gift card which beats amazon. The shop wanted to put some $250.00 silicone wires on it) to combat the heat problem until I can tackle the manifold problem next year when I have more repair money built up. I've spent $1600.00 this week on the beast including the three tires, I've used up all my rv repair budget, I hope nothing else breaks...

anyway it drives great it doesn't shake, bounce or wobble anymore and I don't feel scared to drive it. Once I get the wires sorted out it'll probably even have all the power it's supposed to....
1978 Itasca 27RT - RIP
1992 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 30E

Stripe

Fredric,
Captain of the Ground Ship "Aluminum Goose"
28' Holiday Rambler Imperial 28

Alaskan Itasca

well I spoke too soon, Betsy (her new name which is better than F*****g piece of s... )decided to burn up her starter on my latest trip, the good part was it did at the grocery store 1.6 miles from home. I then also had to replace the starter to battery cable and upon installation of the new wire the battery isolator solenoid it connects to broke. I got the starter easily enough and the battery cable took 3 stores to find a 6 footer, and the isolator was in stock at the Winnebago dealer. It must break all the time since it was in the first bin next to the parts counter and the parts guy didn't even look it up....

at least this time Betsy broke down some where I could fix it at least.   and it was only about $150.00 for all the parts so not too terrible....

The new ride is awesome The rig is much easier to drive now and I have to learn not to tense up every time I hit a pothole in anticipation of the death wobble.

The new engine tune up and ceramic plug wires have made the engine run so much better and I can't believe how much power it has now. Running up the pass at 55 mph is really good for a RV.

anyway made it to camp and have caught 33 Red salmon so far and it's a great day to get some more. I'm waiting on high tide and then I'll go toss out the net one more day and see what I get.
1978 Itasca 27RT - RIP
1992 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 30E

JessEm


ClydesdaleKevin

Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

DonD

Don and Mary
2000 TC1000 Bluebird bus conv.

M & J

M & J

Alaskan Itasca

I stopped at 42 salmon, 1 flounder and 1 dolly varden.....My freezer on the back of the rv is full. I could get 55 salmon, but I'm tired of standing in the Ocean.

Fishing has been slow, it took 4 tides to get them all last year I got 34 in 2 tides.

The slug of 200k+ salmon isn't here yet so there are almost no fish in the river for my friends from Arizona to pole fish. I go home Wednesday and hope Betsy wants to go too....
1978 Itasca 27RT - RIP
1992 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 30E