Gauge panel design

Started by Wbago, May 30, 2014, 06:31 PM

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Froggy1936

Bill i doubt your sandwich bags caused any problem (unless they were full of metal shavings) It was just a coineidence or you forgot to top off the trans fluid after reconnecting the lines . Transmissions do not like dirt But the filter will handle quite a bit  Frank
"The Journey is the REWARD !"
Member of 15 years. We will always remember you, Frank.

engineer bill

In re. to my experience with the Acura transmission: Yeah, maybe so. That was a bad month for me. On the Acura, the timing belt was due to be changed at 60,000 mi. It let go at about 61,000 and completely trashed the engine including the block. It looked like someone had taken a sledge hammer to the dual camshaft area. And, of course I was "between jobs". So, I bought a low mileage wrecked one and swapped engines. Since my transmission had been fine, I left it (my old one) alone and put the broken motor back in the wreck, and returned the core back to the junkyard. Exactly two weeks later fourth gear went out in my tranny, then third and then second. I was pretty unhappy to say the least...


Here's my two cents worth on the "correct" location for the sensor: One of the reasons we are monitoring transmission fluid temperature is to make sure the fluid temperature doesn't get so high that it starts to break down chemically. And, the hottest fluid, should be right after the torque converter. So, probably, in practice, the best place to measure  the temperature of the fluid after the torque converter would be in the cooler line right after as it leaves the transmission, on it's way to the cooler.


There are other reasons to keep an eye on the temperature that involving monitoring trends in the health of the tranny.


I like the idea someone here had of "calibrating" the gauge by measuring a normal "hot" transmission at various points around the circuit and then correlating that with the reading of the gauge. 


So, to put the sensor tee in the Winnebago transmission cooler line requires cutting a small section out of the line. I assume that I would do this with a tubing cutter? I'm guessing the fluid in the cooler would bleed out when I cut the tubing, so just replace the fluid lost from the from the cooler with new? I guess that's not so bad but definately not trivial. That's why I might just put the sensor in the diagnostic port, at least for now.
"on the road again, I just can't wait to get on the road again..."
thanks to Willie Nelson

LJ-TJ

I'm by no stretch of the imagination am saying the way I did it was perfect and the best. Like you said I'd have had to cut the line and by that stage of the game I'd had enough with leaks and break downs and just wanted a decent way to do the job. As it is, having run it for a couple of years now it seems to work good for me. There a those here that think nothing or taking on a project like this but I thought it just might help somebody out with a little less complicated way of doing it.  Hm?

scubieman

Speaking of transmissions , I was wondering if I could replace the cooler hoses with rubber hoses. The reason I would like rubber is then I dont need to bend the steel hoses to make it work. Will rubber hoses hold up to transmission cooler line pressures? I apologize for hacking your thread.

LJ-TJ

Hey funny you should ask that as I've always been curious if you could us that stainless braided hose that you see them use on the engines for fuel lines or brake type lines. If you know the stuff I'm talking about. Hm? i??

scubieman

Yes I know what your talking about but that stuff is expensive!!!!

Do you know what the sensor is right before going into the raidtor. It comes from trans.

eXodus

every transmission cooling line pressure is different.

I had some old cars where the tranny fluid lines where always rubber. Make sure you get hoses which are rated for pressure over 250psi and high temperature ! (300 degree)
The pressure will be probably not the problem, more the fluid which will brake down the rubber with it chemicals at the high temperature.

scubieman

Thank you. I have hard line run into rubber line back into hard line and noticied some leaking  so I would rather get rid of it all.

engineer bill

Quote from: eXodus on December 13, 2014, 06:28 AM
dont cut any lines, get screw T, two female and a male, right where the line screws in the cooler.


Would that be all pipe thread or ? It sounds like a great idea, I'm just not completely   clear on what you are saying. Did you do this on your MH? Like this?

1/8 male NPT ----------1/8 female NPT
                           |
                           |
                   1/8 female NPT
                  (gauge sender)


Or tube fittings + female pipe for the gauge sender.
                   
"on the road again, I just can't wait to get on the road again..."
thanks to Willie Nelson