help finding a new radiator - 85 Holiday Rambler

[TripleJ]

Im having a hard time finding a replacement radiator for my '85 HR Presidential 28.  It is apparently not a standard 84-85 P30 radiator.

I need one with a core that is approximately 29" wide by 21" tall, with a remote mounted fill tube.

Most parts places are listing a part# 432098 or CU850, which references a radiator with a ~34" wide core.  The height is good, but it is wider than the entire space I have to fit the whole radiator.  Also this unit does not have a provision for a remote mount filler.

My radiator is stamped "Harrison", which I guess became Delphi some time in the 90's.  I was able to find reference to a Delphi RA1067 that appears to be what I am looking for, but I cant find it available anywhere.  if you google it, it comes up with an amazon.com listing that is no longer available... My local OReillys was able to cross reference it to something but, but they said they needed to submit a number and wait for a call back for price and availability.  I found it on ebay, but it lists the core thickness at only 1 3/8 inches, which probably means its only a single row radiator, so I might be way off anyhow...

Oh, and I took it to a radiator shop and they said it will be about $500 for a re-core.  Seems a little steep, but Im running out of ideas.

[pvoth1111]

These big truck radiators are totally rebuildable.... 500 bucks for a huge chunk of copper is not that high IMHO.....ask for a breakdown on price, labor and parts.....its a big job and not environmentally friendly....there are costs involved.... I've worked in a radiator shop its dirty and hot.


RockAuto has several....270 to 500......plus shipping...btw

[TerryH]

Possibly



https://www.carpartkings.com/delphi-n-a-radiator-ra1067.html

[DonD]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DELPHI-RADIATOR-Chevrolet-P30-1988-89-90-91-92-93-94-95-96-97-7-4L-/230595453291?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item35b08f616b

http://www.streetperformance.com/part/delphi/radiator/5786070-ra1067.html

[Rickf1985]

That sounds like mine, I will measure it tonight and let you know. I got a new aluminum one at Rock Auto.

[TripleJ]

The radiators listed for the vehicle on rock auto appeared to be all the same, the ones with the 34 inch wide core. The part numbers all interchange. That is the one that O'Reillys ordered for me.

Rick i'm interested in hearing your measurements, and if you have the part number of the one that you ordered.

I did talked to the guy at the radiator shop. He was totally cool and showed me the parts breakdown. The core alone is almost $300.  He is also the one that suggested I look online for a better price because he thought that $500 was steep as well

I also saw the Delphi radiator on eBay, but I still don't know if that's the correct one. 

[Rickf1985]

DANG! Forgot about it till I read this! It is a Ready Rad P/N 431338. Do a Google search for that and it will give the specs, I tried to copy and paste the link but I can't do that in this forum for some reason. I thnink this is the one you need. It is not real clear but the fill is on the oassenger side and comes out the front of the radiator, it will connect to your hose to a radiator fill cap.
Core width is 28 1/4"
Core height is 19 1/4"
Rock Auto price 175.79

[DonD]

Hmmm...
http://www.complaints.com/2008/february/16/Do_not_buy__Ready_Rad__or_Modine_radiators_____161577.htm

[Rickf1985]

You have to love the internet. You will always hear the bad and never the good. The best part is that you don't even know if these are real complaints or some yak-off just playing on his computer. "don't buy from Moline". I love that statement since Moline is the largest radiator supplier in the world. I have lifted cooling unit coils to rooftops with a crane made buy....................... yup, Moline. These things weighed in at 5 1/2 tons! This company does not play around. Do they outsource? I am sure they do, who doesn't anymore. My point is this, did you ever see that insurance commercial on TV where the guy asks the girl where she heard something and she said the internet? He asked do you believe that and she said if it is on the internet it has to be true as her "French" boyfriend walks up. Yup, that is what I am getting at. It is like ratings on products, they proved long ago that the ratings were mostly put there by paid people. They also proved that the negative ratings were for the most part put up by people that never bought the product. You have no idea if it is true or not. For years mechanics said that aluminum radiators were junk! No good! cannot cool as good as copper. Proven fact. Well, they did some research and found that they not only cooled as good but much better. That is why they are thinner. yes, there were and still are issues with the tanks leaking but it is the cheapos that have the issues. I have not installed mine yet but I have installed quite a few Ready Rad radiator with not issues.

Take it as you may. I gave an option. You could put in three or four of these for the price of one of his and I can tell you right now that those copper cores are coming from China. That is why my local radiator guy stopped doing core replacement altogether. He refuses to use their cores because they are too light.

'

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

Rick,
Reply box at bottom of page is for quick replys.  Select the reply button to get to the advanced reply screen.  There is a link button where you can paste the addressed you linked to in it.

Dave

[Rickf1985]

Thanks Dave, I will "Try" to remember that. Woke up with a killer headache today, brain is not working well. And no, I quit drinking years ago.

[ccmeddie]

I just had the radiator on my 1985 HR Alumilite open up at the core to tank. GM dealer stated it was a rare size. Wanted $1500.00 for it alone. Had it repaired for much less.
$500.00 is the going rate for one that size.


Eddie

[Lefty]

I have a 1994 F-350 7.3L diesel. The radiator in it was a huge 4 core copper piece... O'reilly had the correct replacement for it, via special order for $436.00
Local shop wanted just $80 to disassemble, boil and rod the core, and resolder the tanks back on. When they went to remove the tank from the core, the tank split at the crimp seam about 3"...
Found an all aluminum replacement at O'reilly's with the same measurements and mounting pattern, but it was a 3-core. It was only $226. I installed it and it cools perfectly. Even towing out 5th wheel in the mountains with the A/C on and 90+deg outside temps. Engine doesn't get hotter than 200 deg. (195deg thermostat). So aluminum can't be all bad.

[Rickf1985]

The aluminum radiators are built differently due to the aluminum being stronger. The tubes, or cores, can be wider with more heat dissipation area so a 2 core disipates as much heat as a four core copper radiator. Same surface area.

[legomybago]

I've also read up on 4 core vs. the 2 core...The 2 core allows the air to move more efficiantly through the radiator cooling the entire surface, 4 core's are alot thicker, and the air doesnt fully blow cool through the whole radiator they say...Or maybe I should say it like this, The air enters the 4 core radiator, then that same air warms up as it goes through, then as that same air exits the thicker radiator it's only hot air passing through the last bit of core, therefore, not really cooling ALL the cores....Ripley's Believe It Or Not??

[ClydesdaleKevin]

Go with a recore and insist on a 4 row core.  Trust me.  You'll need it.  500 bucks isn't bad at ALL, and it will last for years, and cool MUCH better.

Kev

[Rickf1985]

It will last for years if, and this is a BIG if, you can find and American made core. That is not likely from what I have been told. Less air resistance means more airflow over the motor and also through the AC condenser. I will go with modern tech over old "I swear it's better". LOL.

[legomybago]

In the rear of my FMC is a GIANT 4 core radiator, and a PO built a second large water cooler installed inline with the heater hoses that go to the front of the rig, it looks like a large 25x25 tranny cooler with 3/4" inlet and outlets, and it has it's own thermostat! The FMC'S have always faught with cooling problems.  When and if I have problems with my factory radiator down the road, I plan on replacing with a $250.00 aluminum 2 core Ford F250 radiator (with some modification of course). The results from other owners is great. Reduced weight, and more efficiant cooling.

[TripleJ]

Thanks for all the replies.  Using Rickf1985s numbers I ordered the radiator thru oreillys.  The place has been a great help to me, and it came out to $20 more than it would have cost me to order it from rockauto ($190 shipped), plus zero risk for me.  Any problems I take it right back to the store...

FWIW, ready rad radiators are made by vista pro, with is ex Visteon.  If you dont want to buy it because its a "ready rad", youre pretty much gonna be out of luck...

The dimensions appear to be the same, except the tanks look to hold a little less volume.  I am perfectly satisfied with how the new rad is built.  Remember that ALL new vehicles come with alum core/plastic tank radiators.






As for the 2 row vs 4 row core.  Look closely at the actual cooling tubes in this picture, its difficult to see, but the sunlight shows on one row pretty clearly.  If you notice the original rad uses four rows of cooling tubes that appear to be just over 1/4 inch wide, where the aluminum rad uses 2 rows that are about an inch wide each.  (PAY NO ATTENTION TO MY HOUSE SHOES. mind your business )...  Coupled with the fact that aluminum is roughly 30-40% better at transferring heat (according to my radiator guy) I would not be surprised if the new rad has substantially more cooling ability than the old school one.




My radiator guy even commented on how small the cooling tubes were on these particular radiators, as if it was not really a good thing.  He did mention that the main drawback of an aluminum vs brass/copper rad is that the aluminum is for the most part not repairable. 

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

Now you get to go Vrooomm Vrooomm

Dave

[Rickf1985]

I am going to try to get mine in this weekend but I am working with a 100% torn right rotator cuff and a 60% torn left. Very painful to do much of anything but I am going to try. It ain't going to get any better.

[legomybago]

Ouch! That is not a fun job even with healthy shoulders

[Rickf1985]

Still working on buttoning it up. Will start it today hopefully. Water only till flushed clear and then change the hoses going to the rear heater and the hot water heater since both are inside and I want to do it now when there is nothing but clear water in the lines instead of antifreeze. Those hoses in there are 25 years old! Then I will blow out all the water from the rear hoses, drain the radiator and block and refill with antifreeze. Putting in a new thermostat while I am at it.

Rick

[Rickf1985]

Triple J, A couple of warnings/hints. The new radiator will have some metal crimps where the rubber saddles are for the radiator support. I just cut notches in my saddles BUT, When you do be sure to cut the notches so that the radiator sits towards the engine side of the support. On the rubber saddles you will see on the back of the saddle where it lays against the metal support there are two cutouts that go about halfway through. These are spaced just about perfect for the crimps to sit in but they are centered. I only notched my tops but it was a tight fit. The reason I say to do it so the radiator sits towards the engine side of the radiator support is because the new radiator is a bit thinner than the old one and if it is centered you not be able to get anything on the clamp to tighten it. The clamp will be back behind the edge of the support and you cannot get a nutdriver in there easily at all. I am going to pull my fan shroud back off tomorrow and I hope I can get to them. The alternative would be to put the radiator hoses on the radiator first before putting it in but you have to make sure they are pointed in the right direction.

[joanfenn]

I just cut notches in my saddles BUT.

OUCH