Adding wiring for Power Seats? (DONE w/Pics)

Started by JessEm, August 26, 2014, 12:33 AM

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JessEm

So I picked up some power seats for the ol' Chieftain and I'm contemplating running the wires. A few questions I have... Should I run the power wire straight to the battery? It's my understanding that power seats draw a lot of power, is it enough to negate the need for a fuse? (I can't read the specs on the motors).

I'm assuming I can just ground the negative to a good ground, as opposed to running it to the battery as well?

Rickf1985

Never, ever run wiring without a fuse! Keep the fuse close to the power source. I seriously doubt that you would need more than a 20 amp fuse. Be sure to run the appropriate size wiring. I believe mine is 12 or 14 gauge, I would have to check but I am leaving tomorrow for a week so I probably will not be able to get back to you right away. I am sure Dave will pick this up.

eXodus

yeah I would also guess a 20A should be okey. But don't try do move more then one direction at the same time. AWG 12 is fine.

M & J

I'd use a resetable circuit breaker instead of a fuse. Run the seat to a limit and chances are the stall current will blow the fuse. A CB will reset and you wont have to go find and replace a fuse.
M & J

circleD

Im with old R&R on this one. Mine has 12 gauge wire and a circuit breaker down at the coach battery with all the other fuses. If it trips it'll stop everything till it cools down then it can work again. That keeps you from replacing fuses and blowing them every time you use it. Do yourself a favor and label it and make a note about it so in the future you know what its for.

DaveVA78Chieftain

Fuse and wiring size requirements should be derived from the vehicle you got the seats from.
Have seen anywhere from 15 to 30 amp requirement.

Dave
[move][/move]


JessEm

Thanks for the input on this. Just to follow up on this thread. I finished installing the seats last week. The seats were out of a '92 Monaco. Apparently it was vandalized at some point and the owner never bothered fixing it, so a couple guys were parting it out on Craigslist. ... All said and done, I have about $78 bucks and my time invested. ... I added a 20 amp fuse in the line and no problems so far... The upper bunk will lay level when the seats are at their lowest setting. ... Overall, I'm very happy with the outcome.

I don't have a before picture, but these are the old seats... The drivers seat was original. As for the missing arm, we decided the previous owner really needed to use the restroom and NOTHING was going to stand in his way. It's as good a theory as any.




The after pictures:




circleD

Now that's sharp!! Wide leather seats and cheap. Good find and great install.

JessEm

THANKS CircleD! It's a huge improvement over what was there as you can see.  :) I think it's faux leather though, but same diff.  :)ThmbUp

If anyone is wondering, it was necessary to drill new mounting holes through the floor.

Also, I ran the ground wire to the switched side of the battery disconnect. It really wasn't any more work than mounting it anywhere else.