Sagging roof panel

[bagodriver26]

Sent: 3/25/2004 

Well, I just purchased a 73 Indian with 46,000 original miles on it and it's nice.  The only problem is a sagging roof panel at the center vent.  There are some soft spots and the previous owner installed a brace near the air conditioner to support the ceiling.  I am thinking about installing another brace near the center vent.  I work in a metal fab shop so I can make something nice.  Are there wood joists that correspond with the seams in the roof?  If I decide to remove the ceiling panels can the repairs be done from inside the motorhome?  When the ceiling dries out will it come up any?  Any advise will be helpful.  I will snow coat the roof after it dries out this summer right now it is too wet in Oregon to think about it.  I don't want to get too carried away if the damage is minor, we just want to hit the road.

[Sea Hag]

Sent: 3/25/2004 

There is volumes of threads on this subject if you  use search -

to be brief - I 'm not sure on a 73 but there has been some repair done to my roof supports on my 76 and I feel it lacks a support iin the entrance door / vent area  , the largest free span on mine besides the seperate pannel over the drivers area . the original supports on mine are metal  under the plastic molding . My front brace over the pull down bunk is welded in and looks to be a repair and still exposed I can take some pics maybe this week end and email them if you wish . - the pannels are bonded together before assembly , called thermo pannels Mfg by winnebago . aluminum skin - foam baord - laun  (fancy faced plywood ) - Sea Hag

[Taddpowl1]

Sent: 3/25/2004 

My 1973 Brave had the same problem, I fixed it. All of the old homes are weak in the ceiling. I went to the steel store and purchased two U chanels 93 inches long and two treated one by sixes, then I put the steel on top and one by's under neath, using three inch bolts. The ceiling came up nice one over the driver and the other over air conditioner, or rather behind the air. If you re seal your roof and paint underneath I think you will be satisfied.

[bagodriver26]

Sent: 3/25/2004 

Hi

I need to know if all of your repairs were done from inside the vehicle or did you have to remove the outer skin at all??

Thanks
Eric

[Taddpowl1]

Sent: 3/26/2004 

Eric,

The U channel steel goes on top from side to side 93 inches long, your coach is more than likely the same width as mine, drill 3/4 inch bolt holes prior to putting the steel on top, then go on top and dril through the ceiling.

Have someone go inside and hold your pre cut and measured one by six up and mark where you want the bolts with a lead pencil, go out side and dril the holes.

All you have left is putting the bolts in and tightening, that will bring your ceiling up where you want it. You can use any size bolts you want to suit you.

On top make sure you install the steel in front and behind your airconditioner, remember you may have to remove your air so leave enough room. Also if you install where I had to install, you should be away from your electric wires.

If you can find dexion channel it may be lighter than steel, make sure it wont bend too much when you tighten your bolts, do the two inside bolts first. I used four bolts per channel.

All you have left is repair the inside ceiling and paint. Up on top, go to Walmart and get a rubber cool seal and put it on and your finished. This is better than replacing the whole roof and foam partical board, unles your roof is rotted out. Jim

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

Sent: 3/26/2004 

I installed a convexed 2 x 8 rafter to raise mine.  Essentially, it ends up framing in the pull down bed so it does not look out of place.  You can see the rafter with the bed down

There is also a pic with the bed up (hidden by rafter) there.  It is only attached to the roof rail support at each end.  Being underneath the roof, I did not have to attach it to the roof itself.  The operating mechanism for the pull down bed was bound up so a PO had installed metal plates and seatbelts to the roof to hold it up.  The weight of the bed plus normal age resulted in the sagging roof.

Dave

[bagodriver26]

Sent: 3/26/2004 

OK SO HERE'S what I want to do:   I do not want to disturb the outer skin.  I want to open up my ceiling and replace the de laminated areas with new supports.  The channel steel and wood sounds like the best solution to me.  I just want to be sure i can get the old stuff out and the new stuff into the corners before i start ripping into this.  The area where it is the worst between the bathroom and ac unit (1) panel.  I will have to remove the upper bunks.  The outer skin is sealed up good and I do not want to get into that  ANY SUGGESTIONS? Berfore I proceed...

[bagodriver26]

Sent: 3/26/2004

it looks like i'll be replacing the entire panel.  i have a bunk bed layout and the upper bunks need to fold up flush with the ceiling so i can't install any external support there.  It seems i will have to separate the skin from the roof and go with structural replacement.

[denisondc]

Sent: 3/26/2004 

Based on seeing the roof of my other, less fortunate winnebago, and those of other folks with similar winnies, I think that if the wood structural panels beneath the topside aluminum skin are so deteriorated that you have to replace them, then the aluminum skin on top will also be in a sorry state. That skin corrodes from the inside out - pin holes happen. That plywood/foam/ceiling board sandwich might have been wet for months or years. It is also possible somone has already reskinned it with new aluminum, and now replacing the wood/foam/wood sandwich will give you a roof for a while. Even if the aluminum has pin holes, you could get some time out of it by putting down a good latex coating, or sheet of epdm rubber. good luck.

[demo5552]

Sent: 4/18/2004 11:04 AM

I just finnished this roof repair on a 1972.  They built these motorhomes from the ground up.  I don't think you can repair it from the inside out.   I took off the old skin, and repaired the panels that were water damaged.  Then went to a Peterbuilt truck dealer and bought a  .040 alluminum sheet to cover the whole thing.  Best price I could find.    Now I can walk up there.

    I made cross braces out of 1" square alluminum tube for air conditioner area.  And had to replace the wood runners along each side.  I used 1" x 11/2 " popular wood.  These wood runners are the reason you will have trouble doing this project from the inside out.  The siding and roofing all screw into these runners, so if the wood is rotten there is nothing to grab on to.

    This is a bigger project than I expected, but let it rain now!

                                     Pete  aka "Demo"

[oakland-1925]

Sent: 4/18/2004 

This is Tom I repaired my 1972 Brave from the inside.  I used ribbing they use to support the roof in fiberglass roofed tractor trailers. Then glued foam to the ribs and screwed trailer roof panels to that.  looks pretty good. I glued paneling over the old wall paneling. Had to remove and reinstall cupboards.