Repairing Cut LP Lines to Furnace, Fridge, stove etc.

[James E Vining]

For some reason every single Copper LP line in my Winne has been cut, close to where they connect to the appliances, I do not understand why someone would cut the lines rather then disconnect them as they easily disconnected from the appliances but they are cut.
They actually cut them properly so as to not crush them and I am wondering I found 3/8" O.D. Compression couplers can I use them on a LP line to re connect the lines so I can hook the furnace, Stove/Oven and Fridge to the LP Tank?
Does anyone know the approx psi of the propane once it passes through the regulator? Should the regulator specify the output PSI?
I noticed from the tank the Line to the regulator is Copper then it is a Rubber line going under MH to a Galvanized 1/2" Pipe then it splits of at certain points back to copper lines going to specific appliances, is this a normal configuration or is this some hokey pokey previous owner configuration?
Is there any problem with running LP gas through galvanized pipe and then back into copper pipe?

[ClydesdaleKevin]

Ideally you should always use flair fittings and a flair tool with propane lines. 

Kev

[rampa]

That is the normal set up for propane for propane distribution. If you check, you may find that the galvanized pipe you mention is actually a special pipe for propane. Galvanized waterline is not meant to be used for gas. Also use flared fittings to connect the copper to the appliances as compression fittings will probably permit gas to leak.
The pressure out of the regulator is adjusted to provide 11" of water column at the appliances. This is not a DIY project as it requires special measuring instruments. It can be done at most RV service centres, or places that install and service gas appliances.
Hopefully this information is helpful. Also be sure to check any connections that have been taken apart and put back together with soapy water to be sure they are not leaking. I also do this soapy water test every season on all connections.

Ron

[James E Vining]

I have the flared ends that Attach to each of the appliances, what I was referring to was where they were cut, each was at least 6" or more from the flared ends, I was curious about using compression unions to connect or repair the cut lines.
If that is not a Option I would have to buy a flaring tool and all new line and replace it all from the Galvanized Pipe up through the flooring to each appliance as the line currently is not long enough to flare the ends at the cuts and reach the appliances.
thanks for the reminder about double checking any connections etc. with soapy water, I wonder how much a LP sniffer tool would cost, also does anyone know if there is a reasonable leak tester substance? I know with AC units you can buy a can of leak detector which is a Dye that is florescent and you can really see if it leaks by using a black light which I happen to have somehow in my misc. pile of stuff LOL.

[rampa]

If your lines are too short I would take them out and take a place where copper line is available with the length needed to be added and have them make up new lines with the flare nuts on and flared. I worked with propane before retiring and it is my opinion that the least amount of connections equals less places for leaks. Also make sure to use schedule K copper which is made for gas. Propane sniffers are an expensive item and to my thinking, an expense that is hard to justify. You can buy a leak detector solution, but I find that a tablespoon of liquid dish soap i a cup or two of water Is easy to make up ant apply with a eye dropper or swab. Also I have learned where the wife keeps the dish soap, so don't have to wonder where I put the other stuff.


Ron

PS You could flare  the two ends with nuts, and put a propane double male fitting to join the pieces together.on