What to do with hot water heater

PwrWgnWalt · July 29, 2014, 11:38 PM

Am down to the last bit of plumbing re-do, and am concerned about the hot H2O heater. There was at least 2 gallons of water in the Suburban 6 gallon heater when I got the MH and drained it, and it would have frozen and refrozen over at least 4 winters.

The tank has bulged; the seams of the styrofoam insulation wrap are gapped at the sides, and the outside/control area has pushed out and keeps the outdoor cover pushed out a bit. Have not tried it to see if it is water tight for more than 2 gallons or not, and do not know if it works. This is the pilot-only version heater. Am concerned the tank is shot and I'm going to end up with a wet mess in the newly redone MH. Also, do not know the useful age of these. i??

Question for those of you experienced with these things...

Should I just replace the water heater now, or put everything back together and test this aged, previously frozen & refrozen thing?

Thanks for any input!

acenjason · July 30, 2014, 01:01 AM

I am currently restoring my 75 Winny and my advice is switch it out if you can. If it looks busted and potentially could mess up your rig get rid of it.

TerryH · July 30, 2014, 01:12 AM

At this point, you may want to consider how you will be using your MH and think about an On Demand system - cost of system/fuel/power to run it, resale/ ease of installation, and again, how you will use your rig. Regardless, based upon your description of the current condition of your water heater, replacement is priority.

tiinytina · July 30, 2014, 08:46 AM

dealt with that on someone elses rig... replace it... most likely it is not water tight anymore and putting water into it will result in Niagara Falls running out of it, hopefully down the side of the rig but most likely everywhere else....

M & J · July 30, 2014, 10:03 AM

Same thing with our rig when we bought it. Not winterized and tank split like an over ripe watermelon under the Styrofoam wrap. Didn't know it until I filled it and since the split was at the top, didn't leak out (all over the inside) until the tank was nearly full.
You can get a used one cheaper than getting just a tank. Go ahead and upgrade to either the instant WH or at least one with electronic ignition. I paid $300 for a unit a few years old at an RV salvage yard. Visone RV Salvage in south central Kentucky.

PwrWgnWalt · July 30, 2014, 10:52 AM

Thanks for all the replies...

I was considering the on-demand heaters, but really don't want to spend so much.
So, am left with decision on what features to look for...

Suburban advertises the following models (in order from least expensive MSRP to most expensive):
SW6P - pilot light only (this is the model currently installed)
SW6D - Direct Spark Ignition DSI only
SW6PE - pilot light with electric heat
SW6DE - DSI with electric heat
SW6DEM - DSI, electric heat, and motor aid heating.

Since the Beach-Craft originally came with a motor aid water heater (long gone), the plumbing is there for this feature. Was considering this as an option, but am concerned about it being another spot for potential engine coolant leaks, etc.

I was considering either of the those last two models, the DE or DEM, or getting the D model and adding a Hott Rodd type electric heater.
Pros and Cons, experiences, anyone?

Thanks!
Walt

Lefty · July 30, 2014, 01:36 PM

In my opinion, the engine assisted heat feature is only useful if you intend to use hot water while driving down the road... something I doubt very many people actually do. I have had the manual pilot light models, as well as the DSI, and the DSI w/ electric heat. If you don't mind manually lighting the pilots once you get set up, the manual models can't be beat for simplicity and reliability.There's just that much less to go wrong. However, I love the DSI model with electric heat, we recently stayed for an entire month camping, and never even turned the propane part on... It ran just off the campground's electricity and kept plenty of hot water. This can be a significant savings.

legomybago · July 30, 2014, 02:29 PM

If you do a lot of RV park camping, you will love the silent electric heat feature....I think a manual pilot/electric element would be fine for me. Easier install for you too i??

PwrWgnWalt · July 30, 2014, 04:25 PM

I would be fine with the pilot-light-only version, but since the better half prefers (at least for now) to do park camping, and not boondocking, I figured the electric along with the the ease of the DSI for her would be the best/easiest solution.

Have read with interest about the small tankless water heaters, but am not convinced the "ease of use" is high enough to justify for our limited weekend excursions. For long stays, I think the tankless might be worth looking further into.

So are there consistent issues with the DSI modules, or is it like everything else - just needs to be taken care of properly?

DaveVA78Chieftain · July 30, 2014, 08:19 PM

Think like this,
Furnace and fridge (2 or 3 way) are normally DSI based. Keeping the electrical contacts clean and the ignitor probe clean/adjusted is the key for DSI. So, if furnace and fridge are DSI then a DSI water heater is not that off base.
I just upgraded to a Atwood DSI and electric I got off EBAY.

Dave

PwrWgnWalt · July 30, 2014, 09:41 PM

Makes sense... will proceed with a obtaining a Suburban SW6DE, which is the 6 gallon model with both DSI and Electric heating methods. That's all I have room for N:(

Thanks for all the input, helps me to 'talk' through things!
Walt

PwrWgnWalt · September 05, 2014, 08:58 PM

Will be installing the new SW6DE water heater Saturday.
Since the old one was manual-light propane only, have to run wiring and find a location for the "ON" switch (the Suburban one, with the fault indicator red light).

And, thus the reason for this post... WHERE is a good spot to put that switch?
Would be interested to know where ya'll have yours located.

Two places I've identified as easy and a short wire-run to the water heater are:
In the bathroom, on the under-sink cabinet side (below the countertop), or
In the hallway outside the bathroom, about 15" from the floor (above an under-sink-access cabinet door).

Thanks for the ideas!
-Walt

DaveVA78Chieftain · September 05, 2014, 10:12 PM

Since there was plenty of room, I placed mine on the control center (tank gauges, water pump switch, etc).

Dave

PwrWgnWalt · September 05, 2014, 10:24 PM

I thought about that, and it would be preferred, but would have to run 12 VDC wire inside the wall behind the toilet, then behind the shower, and snake it up the control panel wall (also behind the shower). Not impossible, just more work than I wanted.

I do see the value in having all the controls in one place...

DaveVA78Chieftain · September 05, 2014, 10:36 PM

My WH sits directly below my panel so it was a no brainer for me.

PwrWgnWalt · September 05, 2014, 10:56 PM

That would make it tooooo simple!

Which would be nice, once in a while...

eXodus · September 17, 2014, 08:32 AM

at tank less water-heater with propane is something very cool. You don't waste anything. Like this: http://www.amazon.com/EZ-101-Tankless-Water-Heater/dp/B003327HDK#productDetails

They electric types are sometimes very slow and don't get really warm water. I was on vacation in Ireland, and they all had tank less water heater.
If my waterheater would go bad I would definitely go tankless

Oz · September 17, 2014, 10:22 PM

We have a whole topic on tankless water heaters for further reading.