Winnebago Itasca 454 p30: Water pump replacement

[ribitch]

First I would like to say hi to everyone. 
I am from Slovenia (Europe) and my friend recently bought RV Itasca.
The water pump is leaking and we ordered a new one and now we are trying to replace it.
I have difficulties with disassembling the front side of a rv. We managed to remove air condition radiator, but we don't know how to remove motor radiator.

Does anyone have any suggestions or pictures of how to remove the radiator?

Thank you in advance and I hope that you understand what I am trying to say, since english is not my native language. 

[ClydesdaleKevin]

Welcome!  And Hi!!!

You can do it from the top...from the engine compartment...without removing the radiator.  You'll have to remove the air pumps and the air conditioning compressor to get it out of your way, and then carefully remove the fan and fan clutch.  Then you will have access without removing the radiator at all.  If you put an old pillow on the air cleaner, you can lay your chest on it while you work on it from above...with your arms hanging down to do the work.  I suggest putting your wrenches on lanyards attached to your wrist though.  It saves a lot of time going outside to retrieve the wrenches you drop from under the RV...lol!

Kev

[Hahn007]

Lanyards are a good idea......
Wouldn't have thought of it.....

[jeno]

What are lanyards?

[ribitch]

I suspect that lanyard is some kind of elastic attached to wrist and tool, so that the tool does't fall off.

I doubt that there is enough place to remove the water pump from cabin, since there is really so little place to work. I also  dismounted almost all front part of an RV and now there is only radiator on my way, so I would rather work from front side. I just don't know if I am doing correct steps on dismounting the radiator, because the screws that I am trying to loose are in places, that are very hard to reach 

Today was raining all day and I will try to remove the radiator tomorrow. And the I will also look if there is enough place to remove  the pump from the top.

Will keep you informed!!   

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

http://www.gmpartseast.com/Page_Product/PartList.aspx?MakeUrl=chevy&CatalogUrl=1987-p30&ComponentCode=TP0101401&SectionCode=01&EngineCode=LE8&TransmissionCode=M40&ModelCode=&Vin=&ProductionDate=&VehicleInfo=&CatalogCode=52P&Year=

[ribitch]

Dave thank you!!!! This will help a lot!!!! 

[ribitch]

Ok...i mannaged to remove the radiator and the pump...we will finish everything tomorrow and I hope that I will be able to put everything together  D:oH!

I can't imagine how to change the water pump from inside of an RV since there is so little place and so many things to remove ... I think that disassembling the front side of an RV was right decision.

If anyone think that pictures would help someone else I can put them here.

[Rickf1985]

Kevin, I have noticed that there is a lot of difference between brands on the amount of engine access from inside the coach. I would never be able to replace a water pump on mine from inside. It was bad enough removing all of the stuff forward of the engine and then crawling all the way back to the engine and wedging my 6'3" 230lbs. between the frame rails! Oh yea, make sure that when you finally get both arms above the frame that you have the wrenches up there with you and not still on the ground! Ask me how I know this.

[legomybago]

While I had the radiator out to get re-cored, I thought I may as well replace the water pump, but reaching in like Rick did from the front was not working for me, I removed the right front tire, had the front of the rig lifted up high (so I could climb in the wheel well), and changed the water pump from there. I still had to remove the air pump (gutted the inside and replaced the bearing, just using the air pump as an idler now), charcoal canister, alternator (needed a new bearing anyway). Total pain in the A$$. I felt like a was beat up from knee's to my arms after that job. If you replace any of these parts, ONLY buy new, not rebuilt parts. The rest of the rig will probably fall apart before you'll ever be back in there replacing that water pump....

[cook elandan]

That far in I would go ahead and change the timing chain. Fuel Pump if you have it. check your brake line for rust. just give everything a good once twice and third time over.  Sure dont want to tear it all back down for anything.

[ribitch]

I changed the water pump and while I was installing the engine radiator and testing the radiator started leaking  .
I took the radiator to the expert who knows how to weld them and he said, that the radiator is useful because it has leaks everywhere...now I need to buy a new one 


Which online shop do you recommend? It can be from USA, but I would prefer european shop, since it would come a lot faster and with less shipping cost...

[HamRad Mobile]

Good morning, ribitch; 

     I applaud your effort and willingness to take on the task of working on your Itasca Windcruiser.  My 1987 Winnebago Elandan is a very similar vehicle, since both of them were made in the same factory. 

     The same type of thing was done to mine this summer.  I can offer some comments about the status of parts availability here in the United States at this time: 

     There are no complete new four-pass core Original Equipment copper and brass radiators still available in the United States.  We are talking about parts for a vehicle that is 28 years old now.  I feel very fortunate to have been dealing with a experienced shop that was able to locate a new replacement four-pass core to use with the brass end tanks to rebuild my old radiator.  The old original core had split in a couple of places. 

     The first attempt to replace the entire radiator was tried with a newly built aluminum radiator from Thailand with only a two-pass core, or only one-half (1/2) the thickness of the original radiator.   This aluminum radiator also turned out to have the bolt mounting holes for the right and left sides that were spaced 1/2 inch or 13mm too close together, so it was possible to put in only one side of the mounting bolts.  That radiator was sent back to the seller, and we began to look very seriously at having the old original radiator rebuilt with a new four-pass core.  This was done successfully. 

     The water pump that was put onto the new engine is the "heavy duty" type with some improvements to make it a little more efficient.  The impeller that rotates and actually moves the water through the pump has one more vane on it,  and it is a closer tolerance fit in the recess of the water pump body where it turns.  At least, that is what I was told. 

     It was possible to preserve the Freon in the air conditioner condenser by removing the mounting fasteners and pulling the top out while lifting the condenser up until it was almost horizontal at the top of the space in front of the engine.  Then it was tied up there to hold it.  That left enough room to get to the radiator mounting bolts and to take the radiator out through the front over the cross members of the frame rails after the front grille and many of the accessory items located in that space had been removed to provide clearance for this work.   The engine oil cooler was unbolted and lowered down to just below the frame rails to provide clearance for the work going on above it.  Most of the other things, the engine coolant plastic overflow tank, the windshield or wind screen washer fluid tank, and other similar accessory items were just removed and set aside in boxes while the work was being done. 

     Marking or tagging the electrical wiring and the small tubing found in the front space before the radiator is a real help when the time comes to put everything back together.  It always seems to take longer than you expect, so this way to help your memory I found to be really useful. 

     When you reach the point where you are putting things back together, many others have pointed out that it is a good idea to replace all the rubber drive belts or "V" belts on the pulleys at the front of the engine, and the radiator hoses also.  You can see how difficult it is to work on the front of the engine.  Having the front open and accessible is a very good time to do this preventative work, and will be rewarded with some real peace of mind when driving the Itasca Windcruiser.   Finding a space in the motor home for carrying a full set of spare V belts and Serpentine belt and hoses is also a good idea.  I found space under one of the beds in the back where I carry my supply of those spare parts.  It really saves time in getting you back on the road when something that wears out over time does go out, and then you will not need to wait until the replacement "soft part" is shipped to you.  I also carry a spare alternator and starter back there.

     I am sorry that I am not at all familiar with any of the repair shops in the EU where you can have your radiator repaired or rebuilt.  I know that such shops do exist, but I do not know about them.  With the trucks and lorries and busses that there are in Europe, there will be repair shops that provide repair services for those vehicless.  Just try to find a radiator repair shop that is willing to consider looking at your radiator. 

     Finally, I am really impressed that you are willing to take on the challenge of keeping operational an older recreational vehicle (RV) or motor home that was made in the United States while it is located in Europe.  If you have any other questions about your Itasca Windcruiser and what is required to work on not only the engine, but also the coach or "home" part of the motor home, please ask us.  There are many of us who have experience with keeping these older and more distinctive vehicles going. 

          Enjoy; 

          Ralph 
          Latte Land, Washington 
          and known as "Ham Radio HF Mobile" on the Classic Winnebagos forum

     

[ribitch]

HamRad Mobile: Thank you for all informations!!!  I took photos (step by step) while I was dismounting everything and I hope that I won't have any problems when I will be putting everything back together.
I will keep in mind to have all spare parts that you recommended in RV while on the way!
Thank you also for mentioning that these new aluminium radiators are no good and that it is better to repair the old ones...I will try to find local repair shop.


Will keep you informed