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Started by rcaircraftnut, January 06, 2011, 02:10 AM

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rcaircraftnut

Hi, my name is Jeramie. I am currently living in Portland Or. I am a commercial driver. I have over a million safe accident free miles in an 18 wheeler. I was a Navy electrician before that. I'm a pretty good mechanic, and do ALL my own repairs. This is usually out of being broke, haha. I found out 2 weeks ago that in 2 more weeks I wont have a home so I'm frantically looking for an RV. I figured if I have an RV I always have a Home. So I went today and looked at an 82 pace arrow, it was in a bad way wireing wise. Someone had tried to replace the turn sig sw with a universal strap on one. Hacked up the harness pretty good. Then I looked at a 71 Brave 22ft. The roof was being held up by 2x2s screwed to the cabinets. I pushed up on the roof and was able to easily push it up almost a foot. And ALL the wood and panelling was water damaged really badly. So I passed on the $750 asking price. Going to look at a 72 Starcraft Starcruiser 24 ft in the morning. $500 asking and from the pics it looks very good. But thats pics. If it is livable and runs/drives, Ill take it. Im sure you all will be able to steer me rite when it comes to fixin her up. Thanks and hope to be good friends with all of you.

Oz

As they say in baseball, "Good eye!" avoiding the bad "pitches".  You'll find something worthy, I'm sure.  And, just as you said, if you have an RV, you always have a home, you've got a home here too.
1969 D22, 2 x 1974 D24 Indians, 1977 27' Itasca

LJ-TJ

Welcome aboard Mate, There are some great rigs out there right now for some give away prices. DON'T BE HASTY. Two weeks is more than enough time to find some thing decent with in your price range. Check out the forums section under Craig list and E-bay.

JDxeper

Don't forget to take the RV Buyer's checklist, it helps to remember all the things to check.
Looks like you are learning real fast about water damage.

JD
http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?topic=5146.0
There was a free one for clubs members up by Mt Hood in WA
Tumble Bug "Rollin in MO" (JD)

rcaircraftnut

Well I got the Starcraft. It is leaking around the vents in the hall and bath. But the roof is still solid so I think I can dry it out and save it for now. It only runs on 7 cyl, and had a brake dragging as well as next to no brakes. Had to gear it down and pump brakes as well use E brake but I nursed it the 15 miles or so home. Gotta get the Dodge m400 manual and fix that before it moves again. It looks to be all there and mostly original. Drives good, just no brakes and no power. Has the gen set in it still but no reefer. I will start testing stuff out and fixing it as needed this next week.

JDxeper

Welcome to the association of Classic RVs, where repairs are the norm, and the impossible is undertaken.  Lots of help here on the forum.

JD
Tumble Bug "Rollin in MO" (JD)

Froggy1936

Just a tip  make shure you check brake booster (you can dissconect vacuume line to it)  If diaphram is bad you would have 2 problems poor brakes and a dead clyinder  Plugging manifold outlet will eliminate possible leak   Good Luck and welcome to the Youll Never Get It All Done Club  Frank
"The Journey is the REWARD !"
Member of 15 years. We will always remember you, Frank.

DaveVA78Chieftain

You need to identify exactly what chassis you have.
Not uncommon for coach mfg to place current year house (i.e. 72) on previous year chassis (i.e. 71).  Driven by chassis lead time ordering requirements.
Title VIN number may not be the same as the Dodge chassis VIN number.

RM400 (renamed M400) chassis did not start production until sometime in 1973.  It replaced the M375 chassis (69-early 73).
M375 chassis had a 413 (spark plugs above exhaust manifold)
Early RM400 chassis may have had a 413 or a 440 (spark plugs below exhaust manifold) until they went entirely 440. Most are 440.

1969 - early 1971 M375 chassis (http://dave78chieftain.zxq.net/M375Early.html) has different braking system from late 1971 -1973 M375 chassis (http://dave78chieftain.zxq.net/M375Late.html).

When hunting parts, it is not uncommon for aftermarket suppliers to refer to the M375 chassis as M4 or M400.

Point is, find the Dodge Chassis VIN plate a determine exactly what you have.
Buy the 69-77 Dodge Chassis Service and Parts manuals from the store here (http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php?action=store;cat=42).  Will save you a world of trouble.

Dave
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4winds

Ditto on all the above.  Almost anything can be repaired just take your time and above all:  Have fun.

rcaircraftnut

The plate by the entry door says M400. And All the literature Ive seen from Starcraft says they only used the 440 in 72 only other option was the 318.

rcaircraftnut

By the way I only gave $450 for this RV. Hat to buy a battery to get it home, so Im $500 into it so far. Looked on the DMV site and its eligible for Special Purpose plates. These never expire and are a 1 time registration fee. I think Ill go that route as I dont plan to be driving it much.

DaveVA78Chieftain

Then I guess Starcraft did not sell their 72 model until sometime in 73 or 74.  Why they would sell it as a 72 using 73 and later parts is beyond me.
The real Dodge VIN plate (not something the coach mfg made) does not say M400 on it. The real Dodge VIN plate only lists the engine/chassis size as a coded VIN number.
VIN code for 71 starts with H4 (M375 chassis 318/413)
VIN code for 72 starts with M4 (M375 chassis 318/413)
VIN code for 73/74  can starts with M4 (M375 chassis 318/413) or
R4 (M350 chassis 318/440 which was redesignated as M400 in 75)

If you want to be successful in finding the correct parts for the chassis, then you need to find the real dodge VIN number for the chassis and decode it.  As I said before, the number on your title may not be the real Dodge VIN number.  There is a selection on the right side of this screen that provides you an example of what real Dodge VIN numbers look like.

Dave
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rcaircraftnut

Ok Ill check that out thanks. Sounds kinda like the vin on early VWs I had the DMV try to tell me that it was an invalid vin. I had to show them where all 3 vin #s were located on the car and that they all matched before they would issue a title, as the title had been lost. So this is not really a surprise to me. HAHA!

JDxeper

On the Winnes they usually pop rivet the Chassis manufacturer's (Dodge) vin plate to the fire wall near the radiator on the outside or on the inside just under the dash on the passenger side.  Don't have a clue about the Star craft.  The vin number is also stamped on the frame, usually somewhere not visible until the coach is removed. LOL
Tumble Bug "Rollin in MO" (JD)

DaveVA78Chieftain

Dodge VIN was stamped on the passenger side frame rail by the right front wheel.

Dave
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rcaircraftnut

Ok thanks Dave, Ill look for it tomorrow as Ill be over there working on my Chevy S10.
Im sorry if I confused anyone, Its at a Bro's place not my Brothers place. My baby brother lives in an apartment, and my little brother lives here and will be homeless in a couple weeks. Has no plan at all and no job. I am the oldest of 3.