Paint oxidizing and flaking on exterior

Started by The_Handier_Man1, December 08, 2008, 09:31 PM

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Photoman


Sent: 9/9/2003 12:03 PM

This is wierd.  Just the top half of the driver's side wall on my "72 C20 is oxidized and flaking off badly.  The rest of the outside is oxidizing too, but not nearly as bad.  I plan on trying the finishfirstpolish that booboo recommended, but need to do something with the really bad section first.  It has gotten to the point that you can see the bare aluminum under the paint.  I was going to clean it with 409 like booboo did so got a big bottle of it at Sam's.  Then read the fine print at home, and it says on the bottle "not recommended on aluminum".  So what should a person use?  After I get all the flakes off & cleaned good down to the aluminum, I'm going to try to find white paint that can be brushed or rolled onto the aluminum to try to bring her back to a respectable appearance.  Seems I read a posting about some aluminum paint that could be bought at a farm supply store?  Open to suggestions.  Thanks!
Also owned a 1972 Winnebago D22 Indian

shagebago3142

 
Sent: 9/9/2003 12:47 PM

We just got our winne about 2 weeks ago and it had bad oxidation. We used SOS pads- took off the oxidation and gave it a little shine. We did not have any flaking though. For bumpers, tire wells, & touch ups, we used white rustoleum paint. Buff again with the SOS, then follow with wax.

Sherri

mightybooboo


Sent: 9/9/2003 5:41 PM

"I plan   to clean it with 409  it says on the bottle "not recommended on aluminum "and trying the finishfirstpolish "

Photoman, dont worry about the 409,you will be using it on PAINTED aluminum I assume, then you are ok.  t will remove the chaulky stuff and the old wax great, didnt seem to harm my paint at all.  Then use the finish first cleaner,then two coats of the polish, let em sit for hours before wiping off to settle in they say.After that you can slap on more in  a flash,it goes on easily.  I purposefully left the rear end stripe on mine not refinished so I can show the folks at the rally what it really did.  I will finish that area at the rally so all can see that this is a remarkable product.  Also checked it out a couple days ago (and the 2 coats of polish claims something like 99% UV protection), well, I noticed no fade, zero, on the stripes everywhere i used it.I  t sits in full sun in sunny Socal.  I just sent away for more from the site.

I have the shiniest silver Jetta on the planet too, its a 2001 looks at least as shiny as when I got it.  I did the test where you only wash it with water, except for a tree sap spot came out as clean as a car wash job.  I have no financial interest or anything else in this company.  Jeez, I sound preachy, sorry about that.

BooBoo

Photoman

Sent: 9/9/2003 8:31 PM

Thanks for the reply booboo...I'm definitely going to give the finishfirstpolish a try. Does it matter that I'm Bohemian and not Polish? LOL


Like I said,  tho, I do have the whole top half of the driver's side of my C20 that's flaking off badly, and has the bare aluminum showing in several places.


What does the finishfirst cleaner do? Can it be used on bare aluminum? Maybe that would work instead of 409?

Photoman

Also owned a 1972 Winnebago D22 Indian

mightybooboo


Sent: 9/9/2003 9:07 PM

The cleaner is like rubbing compound, but is a liquid.  Easier by far than rubbing compound but still a lot of work, may take 2 tries to get it shiny if heavily oxidized, most of my rig only took one application, stripes took 2 but they were in bad shape, light orange and faded, came out a dark orange and look pretty nice.  The finish is now very smooth and shiny, looks like its already polished but it isnt, if you dont polish it will fade again real fast. 

I see no reason why it wouldnt work on aluminum.  I would use the 409 everywhere else as it makes the cleaner project easier.  We have a 23 footer, used a 32 ounce cleaner and a 16 ounce polish (actually i used 1 and 1/2 cans polish.), and a bag of cheap towels from wally world ,cotton.T  hat should be enough to get you started and fully protected, from then on you will just want to add more polish (just because) after the cleaning is done, future polishing is a snap and the shine just gets better and better as you apply more.

The big job is the cleaning,you sure dont want to do that again as it takes some pressure to clean, polish is just wipe on, take an hour break minimum (more time on the better) and an easy wipe off.  I did about 4 coats polish so i made sure at least 2 good coats everywhere due to the UV protection aspect.T  hey say you can leave polish on a WEEK and it still wipes right off.A  lso no swirl marks either. 

Another huge post,its easier than it sounds.  Im looking at my latest order reciept it was Finish Prep(32oz.) 22.95. Finish First Polish(16oz.) 19.95.I also got Finsh Fast(16oz.) 8.95,thats a spray cleaner pre wash ,havent used it yet.  Shipping 11.40,tax 3.76, total 67.01.  When you order you get confirmation by email in a couple minutes, then in a couple hours get shipping confirmation, it arrives in three days.  Excellent service.  Priority mail and well packed.
BooBoo

keith


Sent: 9/22/2003 7:52 PM

Hey guys,

I hear you talking about the polish etc., but don't see where to get it.  Can you give me their number or Web address?

Keith

Marksbestfan6


Sent: 9/22/2003 9:58 PM

As far as a cleaner I went to Manards & bought a gallon of Rv wash & took a presure cleaner to it & it came out real nice but I was going to repaint it anyways cause some paint was gone in spots but besides the spots of paint that was missing if it would have been waxed it would have looked like new!
    As for paint when I was looking for it I found some at (TSC Tractor Supply Company) it was for Alumium & Galvanize

mightybooboo

Sent: 9/23/2003 3:51 AM
Quote
Hey guys,
I hear you talking about the polish etc., but don't see where to get it.  Can you give me their number or Web address?
Keith

www.finishfirstpolish.com