Generator removal and install

[circleD]

I have been asked how I got the genny out of the camper and put back in with it weighing 380 pounds so here's how I did it. Other than the obvious unhooking the fuel,wires AND UNHOOK THE EXHAUST OR CUT IT OFF LEVEL, soaking the mounting bolts before hand helps alot. The plan for removal was the same as the install in the pictures until the camper didn't run then and I couldn't get it out of the garage so I used a floor jack and 1/2 thick boards. The genny is mounted to a metal plate that is bolted to the frame work on the camper and the nuts underneath were hanging up and I needed to get them over the frame work. IF you unbolt the genny from the metal plate then you'll still have to lift it over the lip on there and the clearance is very tight. After jacking it up and working it out onto a stool 3 of us put it in my truck. BUT when I installed it, the camper was running    and I could pull it out into the open and back my trailer up to the compartment door. Luckily the trailer and compartment were within 1/2" of each other height wise. If there was anymore of a difference in height I would've let the air out of the trailer tires or used the camper jacks. Utilizing a 1/2" thick board and narrow enough to fit between the bolts that mount the genny to the metal plate so you can slide the whole thing into the compartment like a ramp. Place the board slightly onto the metal frame work and screw down the other end onto the trailer so it want slide in "trust me". When I painted the genny and the compartment I sanded them down smooth and put alot of paint on them to make them slick. Before we pushed the genny into the compartment I greased the metal frame work and could've greased the wood but didn't. Then 2 of us pushed it in and it took about 15 minutes including the lining it up and setting it up. After everything was hooked back up and ready I reassembled the bottom piece as mentioned in Stripes thread of Generator compartment modification. I know there are other ways such as engine hoist, atv lifts, or a pallet jack with racing Stripes W% . One idea I had but couldn't find is to use teflon strips on the rails so I could slide it in and out easier with a limiting strap so it doesn't fall out. Honestly the hardest part was dealing with the rusty bolts and exhaust that wouldn't come apart without cutting it because if something is hanging below the metal frame work it makes things really hard due to the tight clearance.

[Stripe]

Well, I only have one word for you:  Wow, that looks pretty darned good..

On a related note.  And I will take a pic later of it, the exhaust system on mine actually has a pin I can pull to remove the exhaust and piping from under the genny..

As to the teflon, this may sound weird (yeah I know coming from me?) I had an old plastic E-Collar from when I was a K9 handler in the Navy that I forgot I had gotten stuck with. I used that (after cutting it into a rectangular(ish) shape and put it under my battery tray to make it easier to slide the batteries out. So, if you think about it, and if you or someone you know  has a pet that had to use one and wants to get rid of it, there ya go. It's close enough to teflon and it is, indeed, slippery.

[circleD]

That sounds great man! I'll keep my eye open for one of those. My exhaust unbolts but they were so rusted I just cut it off with a sawzall and pieced it together later with newer bolts. I finally got all the exhaust bolts and mounting bolts freed by using that 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone. I'm also going to add some scrap LED strip lights with alligator clips in there for night time work.

[TerryH]

Looks great. Upcoming project for me.
Glad to hear (or not "hear") that you also liked the sound deadening.
Teflon strips are an excellent idea. You could source from a Plexi/Polycarbonate supplier for cut-off pieces, or through a snowmobile repair shop. It used to be used for sliders. I've been out of that for a few years so not sure if it is still used, but possible option.