Mike's 1973 D22 Complete tear out. From the Roof down!

Started by RockwoodMike, September 25, 2019, 11:43 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 39 Guests are viewing this topic.

RockwoodMike

Pic EE..From underneath ..Hooking up the tubes to the defrost vents..

Pic FF..Routing the cable from the transmission down the length of the oil pan..Held away from the exhaust tube..

Pic GG..Up the side of the radiator and out the top of the engine shroud..

Pic HH..Not enough light to show the cable at the shifter..I will get one tomorrow after it is hooked up..
2 wire harnesses pre wired..1 for the heater fan control..2nd is the wiper motor wires



 
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

Cable all hooked up with no problems..Shifts the trans very nice :)clap  :cool:  :grin:
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

Fuel regulator time..and gauge..

I started out badly..I dropped the gauge on the concrete..Stupid..And I wrecked the gauge..Oh well..new one on order..

The drop caused the needle to jump off the rest position and it reads 1 pound with no pressure..

I have the pressure regulator clamped in position..Can be adjusted from below later..

Hooked it all up to carb after flushing out the line...

And it still floods the carb..
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

Take the carb off.. :'(

Something down in the seat area..

Never figured out where it(what ever it is) came from..But it was causing the fuel flood problem..

Glad I found this..

Pressure gauge steady at what ever pressure it is with a bad gauge..No more drips or flooding...

Nothing worse than having a drippy nozzle..Never good!! :grin:  :rolleyes:
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

Eyez Open

As long as I've followed this thread I never payed any attention to your weight/dimension aspect. Depending on your cam/gearing selection that thing will pull like a tractor. What does it weight 10/12k?





RockwoodMike

Quote from: Eyez Open on October 20, 2024, 11:01 AMWhat does it weight 10/12k?

I really don't know yet..I have added weight and I have taken it back..Like the original fresh water tanks..They were galvanized steel..2 of them at the rear..They are gone and will be replaced with a single plastic tank

The black gray holding tanks were heavy fiberglass..the replacements are much lighter..But I added that heavy steel to hold them in place..

Out this morning and here is the pressure gauge..still reading pressure..So I have a very tight fuel system :)clap  :cool:

Started it up to tune it up..

I could NOT get it to idle down..About 1000 rpm..The idle screw on the left was all the way out..

There are 2 idle screws..Curb idle and fast idle..It was the fast idle even with the choke full open causing the idle to be high..turned it back and it idle right down :)clap  :grin:

16 inches of vacuum..20 degrees of timing at 800 rpm..

when I disconnect the ignition, it kills the engine instantly..no diesel effect..

PERFECTION at it's finest..need some mufflers now..

Earlier in this blog I posted a video with a cam installed in a car(same as mine) and the sound and idle it produced..

I have the same sound and idle :D  :cool:
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

Maybe I will work on the drain valve..It is on the long list to do..make a nice bracket to hold the valve and then attach it to the base of the outside wall
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

I need an air cleaner setup..

Looking at the front grill area, maybe some sort of cool ram air system..Let the engine suck in cool dense air..More power??
Drawing shows a location for the intake at the front..

Here is the original air cleaner..Could use it too..needs some cleanup work like everything else this project has been..
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

Eyez Open

16" of vacuum and a lumpy idle rolling smooth at 800 rpm. That's a tight build, do you remember your cam build?

RockwoodMike

Quote from: Eyez Open on October 20, 2024, 09:26 PMdo you remember your cam build?

Here is the cam card..I do not know who actually grinds Summit cams, but it seemed to be a quality cam when I received it..There was nothing on line about(that I could find) Summit producing bad cams..

But I used a break in GREASE..and not an oil..Grease stays put for months..Oil drips off and or evaporates away..

With open headers, setting the idle screws is difficult..The draw away effect that headers will produce is only when a pipe extended out further is installed..

There really isn't any twitch in the engine mounts like radical cams create..

But it create a growl sound, and it has instant throttle response..

I like it!! :cool:
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

Eyez Open

Since your close to tuning below is a good read for setting up HEI. Perhaps your already there so take it for what it worth

https://www.davessmallbodyheis.com/services/vacuum-advance-stand-alone-degrees-stop-plate-information

RockwoodMike

Hi Eyez,

My Distributor has one of those vac advance that you set with an allen wrench..The more you turn clockwise, the shorter the range of advance..When you loosen it, the range becomes wider..

I am not sure what I am doing with the vac advance..Maybe forget about it and depend on initial and centrifugal only??? :undecided: 
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

The Dash..Here is the original..Gonna need to make a new one..

Been collecting gauges..Need switches too..

Also a GPS speedometer..RPM gauge..and a simple analog clock..Looking for these items right now..Maybe these on Ebay...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/275764318035
85mm Black GPS Speedometer 0-80MPH ODO Waterproof For Car Truck Marine USA STOCK

https://www.ebay.com/itm/275881455670
52mm Clock Gauge 12Hours Waterproof Black For Car Marine Truck Red LED USA STOCK

https://www.ebay.com/itm/276571928683
85mm Tachometer with Hour Meter 8000RPM For Car Truck Marine Boat Black US STOCK
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

Eyez Open

Quote from: RockwoodMike on October 22, 2024, 10:28 PMHi Eyez,

My Distributor has one of those vac advance that you set with an allen wrench..The more you turn clockwise, the shorter the range of advance..When you loosen it, the range becomes wider..

I am not sure what I am doing with the vac advance..Maybe forget about it and depend on initial and centrifugal only??? :undecided: 

I have no experience with those things,actually I believe they actually control the amount of vacuum and not the advance. One would actually need to put a light on it and watch how preforms during operation. A extensive look at all different load levels.

RockwoodMike

Quote from: Eyez Open on Yesterday at 02:50 AMA extensive look at all different load levels.

That is exactly what I need to do..Can't do it right now with it on 4 jack stands..At least the engine cam break in has been accomplished..
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

Steering column breakdown.. This column has been hacked badly..I will get it back..

Pic 1..Steering wheel puller needed..HF to the rescue..

Pic 2..Turn signal switch is frozen in it's mount..Pivot point of the arm was stuck in the pivot hole..PB blaster got it loose..

Pic 3..Ignition switch with a broken housing..This thing has been opened before

Pic 4..Checking continuity of the ignition switch..It was just a mess
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

RockwoodMike

All the broken and unbroken parts laid out..

New housing (old stock found on Ebay)

New ignition switch (Rock Auto)

New turn Signal switch..(Ebay old stock)

3 pounds of Satin Black powder to re powder coat everything (AllPowderPaints)

When it all gets here, then I will show it all being restored..

That is if anybody is interested (pretty quite around here)
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!

LJ-TJ

Never fear the TJ is here.Don't no about the rest of the world but we're getting the final preps done on equipment in order to store everything for winter. Weather's starting to get cooler up here in Canada.Just sitting back and admiring and appreciating all the effort your putting into this project. You've be a great help showing a lot of us how to fix our rigs. I'm thinking when your done we'll have to have a big Classic Winnebago Rally some were so we can check this old girl out in the flesh.Keep up the good work. Your doing amazing. T.J.

Eyez Open

Your thread is excellent. Work quite well done and a tenacious attitude is motivating. To be honest some armchair quarterbacks along the way. There has more than a few times I've made comments then realized how I could change up my plans. Both my bathroom and my final gearing have been changed up...Actually I'm almost convinced to go big on curtains...almost :shocked:

RockwoodMike

Just looking for feedback :P I sometimes wonder if I should post a new part of the project for fear of boredom on the part of the readers..

Really..How many people are interested in a steering column rebuild??

Okay..how about this..I just scored a 70s vintage Cruise control system for my Rebecca..The kind that has to have magnets mounted on the driveshaft..

https://www.ebay.com/itm/186732300952

That way as I am driving, I can set the speed, get out of the chair to use the bathroom..It will be nice to be able to do that!! :rolleyes:  :laugh:
The best mechanic is the one that can make it run with the least amount of parts!