Mike's 1973 D22 Complete tear out. From the Roof down!

[LJ-TJ]

 

[RockwoodMike]

I am still working on the walls..I thought a break from that and start the engine removal!!

Pic 1 ..shows the opening to start from..Remove the front bumper to start

Pic 2..1-1/8 bolts wrench size ..One was stuck..I had to cut it off..

Pic 3..Bumper gone and set aside..It is a start..

[RockwoodMike]

Removing the Trans cooler was easy enough..

Pic 1..The red fluid(suppose to be) is a bit brown burnt..This was the drip container when i removed the 2 lines.

Pic 2..removed and set aside..I am going to be setting aside a lot of things!

[RockwoodMike]

Removing the oil filler tube is next..I think I will replace this with an ordinary cap at the valve cover..That will give me the excuse to remove the engine cover more often to check the engine out..

Pic 1..Pull the cap out of the valve cover..

Pic 2..bracket at the radiator

Pic 3..Removed and set aside

[RockwoodMike]

Pic 1..Bracket for the dip stick tube..

Pic 2..This front cross member will need to come off to get the engine out..I don't think I can withdraw the engine if it is there in the way..

Pic 3..Radiator out showing damage..dang!!

[RockwoodMike]

Radiator pic didn't post..Showing damage from the fan

[RockwoodMike]

Pic 1..The front of the engine..Take off one part at a time and picture it to be able to put it back together!!

Pic 2..Charcoal canister..Not hooked up so it wasn't doing anything but be in the way to remove the radiator..

More tomorrow..

[RockwoodMike]

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2238&cc=0&pt=10068&jsn=964
Gates 20229 Upper

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=962023&cc=0&pt=10068&jsn=972
Dayco 70438

These are the links to the 2 radiator hoses found on this engine

Pic 1 is a terrible shot of the numbers..

Pic 2 shows the fan belt number that was on both belts..I think the one for the alternator could be used with something shorter as the adjustment was fully shifted out to nearly the max ..

Pic 3-4 shows the configuration as I found it for each of the belts..
I think there was a thread needing info on how the belts were installed..Hope these pictures help

[RockwoodMike]

Pic 1..Removal of the fan and pulley..The fan clutch seemed good..Stiff to turn..

Pic 2..Front of the engine showing everything..

Pic 3..Wire colors to show how it was hooked up..

Pic 4..This was a picture to remind myself of he big spacer needed and to not forget to loose it!

[RockwoodMike]

Pic 1..Just to take a picture to show how the power steering pump is mounted

Pic 2..One of the bolts goes into the engine water jacket area and was frozen with rust..Just take your wrench and turn it slightly..Then tighten it again..then you can turn it loose slightly more..then tighten it again..Working it like this and it took about 15 minutes to work it out..no heavy torque or you will snap the bolt..

Pic 3.. shows the 2 nuts on the back of the pump..loaded with grease, they came off easy..

Pic 4..All the brackets for the pump..set aside!!

[RockwoodMike]

Pic 1..Crankshaft pulley..Spiders and filled with dirt..Pretty sure with all that dirt that it made a vibration out of balance.

Pic 2..Pulley off with 6 bolts...

Pic 3.. Water pump off..

Pic 4..Inside the water pump housing..

[RockwoodMike]

Pic 1..This pipe that feeds the heater core keeps the one bolt from being extracted..

Pic 2..With a pipe wrench, I was able to spin it out..giving access to the bolt..I don't think this pipe is factory configuration..

Pic 3..195 thermostat..Has a hole drilled in it to allow the air trapped during a refill to burp through the system..Instead of being trapped behind the thermostat..

Pic 4..Looking down the pump housing..

[RockwoodMike]

Pic 1..2 bolts and the fuel pump is off..no problems and it looks like a recent change out..

Pic 2 and 3..Showing the throttle linkage and kick down..Just to help put it back together later..

Pic 4..The front cross member can be unbolted from the frame..Now I can just walk up to the engine to tear it down..Plenty of oil absorbent bought from Autozone to suck up the spills.

[RockwoodMike]

Pic 1..Edelbrock carb and I know nothing about them..Just know that this is NOT the stock carb..

Pic 2..After removing the carb ..Big thick plate under it..

Pic 3..Big difference between the primary and secondary plates.

Pic 4..About 3/4 inch thick..Help keep the carb cool..

[RockwoodMike]

Pic 1..That is a big hole ..All the better to suck the gas in!!

Pic 2..Removed the distributor hold down bracket and the thing just popped right out..

Pic 3..Down the hole to the cam gear..

[RockwoodMike]

Pic 1..Valve cover off..Starboard side..There was no loose rockers..No collapsed lifters as far as I could tell..

Pic 2..I could not believe what was under the valve cover..NOTHING!! As clean as can be..

Pic 3..Both covers off..

Pic 4..Both covers are totally clean..I have no idea what to think of this engine!!

I hope everyone is enjoying the pictures..Lots of work editing and getting them uploaded??  

[RockwoodMike]

Before I pulled the dist. out I rocked the crank shaft back and forth to see the play in the timing chain..That is the degrees in slack of the chain..A pretty good amount..

Pictures show how far it is..

[Eyez Open]

Thats Quite a lot of work period end of story. Things look dirty but quite sound from here, just a aggressive power washer, degreaser some oxcylliac acid and finally some paint.

The carb must be the Quadra Jet clone, not a bad carb from what I here..1409? How far are you going to take the engine? 440's were the industry tourqe monster's...still are as matter of fact.

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

That's a Edlebrock 1900 Series (spreadbore) carb.  Model number should be stamped on the front base

[RockwoodMike]

How far are you going to take the engine?

All the way for a complete rebuild..I will take plenty of pictures!!

Model number should be stamped on the front base

The number is located on this tag,,1905..

[Mlw]

Yes, I for one appreciate your picturing and editing skills very much.

Now, I wouldn't put too much thought in the valve covers. As I don't watch television anymore, I save tremendous amount of time and a lot of it I invested in studying the 360/440 and one of the lessons is that the valve covers are notorious for leaking. Now if you have a previous idiot like me, he would just change the gaskets and forget about the filth so you get this

 

  after I was finished with it this same valve cover looked like this:

 

 
I think you will be getting the picture here, probably your PO had leaky gaskets, and did/had a good job done replacing them.

 

Now your valve trains look pretty similar to mine. I've sent my heads to a machine shop to be checked and straightened and they both have a clean bill of health. Unfortunately, this shop only did heads.

 
Now I've read your story how you only could do 20 miles an hour limping the RV to its new home. The question is, next to you mentioning a fuel delivery problem, did you do a compression test, because this says a lot about your engine.

I did, and the results are in my project post. I had one cylinder with less compression and in this cylinder I found a broken piston ring, which is one of the reasons why compression can be down.

When I bought the the rv the engine started as I remembered from the RV my father had in the early 80's, and taking the state of the carburetor, I thought it did a pretty good job starting up.



However after giving the engine a big maintenance job changing the sparkplugs, wiring fluids and overhauling the carburetor with a kit  I couldn't believe how easy the engine started up and how smooth it ran and that is still the reason why I'm not giving up on this engine yet.

Now, seeying you go at everything, I don't think it will be of much use telling you to first test the condition of the engine and see of a rebuild is necessary, so maybe this will give you some inspiration when you are going at the rebuild. I know this guy helped me a lot rebuilding mine.

https://www.youtube.com/@JustMoparJoe/playlists



 

[RockwoodMike]

after I was finished with it this same valve cover looked like this

How did you clean it so well?? A pan and solvent??

Now I've read your story how you only could do 20 miles an hour limping the RV to its new home. The question is, next to you mentioning a fuel delivery problem, did you do a compression test, because this says a lot about your engine.

I found a very plugged up pick up tube on the main tank..Just stuffed with crud..Took a bit of effort to get it cleaned out with chunks of black coming out of the tube. The pickup tube for the generator was completely clean as the bottom of it is about 2 inches from the bottom and can't suck crud from the bottom..

But the engine pickup tube was about 1/4 inch from the bottom and suck up everything from the bottom..

I haven't had a chance to inspect the rest of the tubing leading to the carb..It will be interesting to see inside the thing when I am ready to open it up..

A simple rebuild kit is about 120-130 dollars!!

I never did a compression test..It was set in my mind that is was coming out..For as filthy as this thing is, it deserves a full rebuild.. 

[Eyez Open]

I've learned a few things from your post, one being that carb you have is a direct copy of a 78/80 something truck Quadra Jet. Wish I had run into that eailer I would have gone with a new one.

From what I gather Cliff Ruggles actually sells a kit for that it should be about $80, you can call and speak with actually he's a pleasant matter of fact guy. It's a bit odd to be able to speak with a person of his depth on the phone over a kit...yet he does it. You will not find a more knowledgeable carb guy.

https://cliffshighperformance.com/

Call us at 740-397-2921 if you don't see what you are looking for..
We carry every Quadrajet part currently available and we'll build a custom kit with tuning parts exactly for your application

[Mlw]

I cleaned the valve covers with a mix of diesel and petrol. you know, it's just the stuff of people put diesel in a gas tank or vice versa. Garages are happy to get rid of the stuff you don't have to pay for it 😂 By the smell of it I had the mix with more diesel.

As for the fuel line, just put a compressor to it at the outlet to the carb and see what happens. If a lot of crud is coming out, I would replace the line because I guess you wouldn't want this to happen when you are on a trip

https://youtu.be/dBDr6_D0w1I?t=14m43s

As for the price of a rebuild kit... Wow. You can also go for just the gaskets, ore just gasket material and make them yourself. You've shown us plenty of time you've got some skills 😉 

When you removing the jets and screws Just be sure to have exactly the right screwdriver especially with Phillip heads or else you mess up the Brass  heads guaranteed! Blow everything out with the compressor and an Ultrasonic cleaner does wonders if you have one.

As i've seen your quite the welder maybe you can set something up as this and check out what the state of the engine is.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dR_xLsUcu7Y



What i've seen is that even Ford and Chevy people have some form of respect for the 440. That should be saying something.

[RockwoodMike]

I guess you wouldn't want this to happen when you are on a trip

I watched that video awhile back..Just glad that nothing bad happened..to tear out the floor to get to the pump..To subject all this to his family..I don't think I could do that without a very complete inspection before hand ..

Pic 1..These are some heat shields on the port side..The mounting tab with the hole in was between the gasket and head..Creating an opening for oil to leak out..And it did!

Pic 2-3 here are the spark plugs..Toasty brown like they are suppose to be..

The engine was running fine other than the fuel delivery problems..