Mike's 1973 D22 Complete tear out. From the Roof down!

[Eyez Open]

I do understand having the ability to build your own ignition..
Impressive is the thought.

Have you given much thought to mechanical advance and curves? Getting that 440 all in say 34/36 degrees @ 2800/3000 rpm (max advance) can be a very important part of the timing process.

Modern fuel has changed dramatically since or around 2004/5, it burns very slowly..very. Advance timing is required or better said highly desired.

There once was a time if you threw a cup of gas on a driveway and ingnited it was duck cover and roll...modern gas...well not so much.

PS don't experiment without extreme  safety precautions.lmao

[RockwoodMike]

Have you given much thought to mechanical advance and curves? Getting that 440 all in say 34/36 degrees @ 2800/3000 rpm (max advance) can be a very important part of the timing process.

Yes I have...20 degrees initial timing..14 degrees centrifugal..Ported vacuum with about 5-6 more..

As Cliff Ruggles said in his book.."Experiment"...

Not sure if that will be too much with 9-1 compression, gotta start somewhere..

You are totally correct with the 3000 rpm with timing all in at that point..This engine will never see anything above 3500

It is grunt off the line to get 12-14000 lbs moving that involves that 20 degrees base timing..
Then as the engine winds up, the 14 centrifugal uses light springs to bring it in..

It is going to be interesting..

[RockwoodMike]

Pic 1..Spark plug wires installed..

Pic 2..from the top..

Pic 3..Thermostat and housing..

Still have several things to hook up..Getting closer to starting it

[Eyez Open]

Have you given much thought to mechanical advance and curves? Getting that 440 all in say 34/36 degrees @ 2800/3000 rpm (max advance) can be a very important part of the timing process.

Yes I have...20 degrees initial timing..14 degrees centrifugal..Ported vacuum with about 5-6 more..

As Cliff Ruggles said in his book.."Experiment"...

Not sure if that will be too much with 9-1 compression, gotta start somewhere..

You are totally correct with the 3000 rpm with timing all in at that point..This engine will never see anything above 3500

It is grunt off the line to get 12-14000 lbs moving that involves that 20 degrees base timing..
Then as the engine winds up, the 14 centrifugal uses light springs to bring it in..

It is going to be interesting..

Looks like your dialed in quite nicely with your curve strategies, but I believe your just a tad lean on your fuel mixtures. There is plenty of time to lean out the final mixture.

Frankly you will have not one issue pulling 15k...not one

[RockwoodMike]

but I believe your just a tad lean on your fuel mixtures

When I was on the phone back in February with Cliff Ruggles, I told him what jets were in the Edelbrock when new..The primaries were .073..He thought that night be a bit lean knowing it was in a fat motorhome..

Suggested that I go with .076 with a different metering rod to match..

So when he sent me his kit, it included the larger pieces and they are in the carb right now..

All of this is making me itchy to get this thing done!!

Will be working on the engine wire harness, since I need that to get it started for the cam break in..

That momentous event is a big time stress maker..  

Picture shows the page from the install brochure or the Edelbrock

[Eyez Open]

Oh my bad, I should have elaborated further and stated idle screws along with the APT. I believe your at 2 1/2 turns out? Hmm maybe not. Quadra jets actually run on the idle circuts far more than people realize. While we do have different carbs the metering screws are identical. I got quite a bit of lean popping until 4 turns out. Apt 3 full turns was the sweet spot.

 Ruggles knows his way around a carb that is for sure. Things will be fine, I still say you will find yourself over geared. Tons of low end grunt, generally the problem occurring back in the day were not initial advance but vacuum advance. Such as 18 initial,20 mechanical and then the vacuum advance boosting another 15 degrees when Cruise/ vacuum engaged...meaning about 53 degrees while cruising...lol boom!

Below are thoughts from a guy named Lars, he is on par with Ruggles 7 days a week.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c3-tech-performance/4283598-will-a-q-jet-idle-rich-and-load-up-if-power-piston-is-not-seated-at-idle-i-test-it.html

[RockwoodMike]

Cliff said over the phone to do 3.5 turns on the APT. As for the idle screws, that 2.5 turns (Great memory) is just a wild guess..After the 20 minute break in for the cam, then it will be time for the vacuum gauge to set idle and screws..

That forum thread on idle settings was good..Hi overlap cams really cause big time troubles to set a decent idle..That is why most are set at above 1000 RPMs..

As I was rebuilding the Edelbrock, with Cliff's book open in front of me, learned there is a "Air bypass" to help with idle..If you need more air, that can be modified to increase more air to reach the cylinders..The main thing that you are trying to do is keep the butterflies closed as much as possible..

That way the idle mixture screws are able to meter the fuel..If you need more air at idle and you do that with opening the butterflies, you lose the mixture screws and start getting fuel from the transfer ports..And those ports are poor at efficiently metering the fuel..

Bottom line..Keep the butterflies closed so the idle mixture screws can do the metering..
If the air bypass is not enough, it can be opened up by drilling passages open more..Or even drilling a small hole in the butterfly plates ..

All of this because of a large overlap cam.. 

[RockwoodMike]

The radiator is in place for the last time..Just tighten all the mounting bolts..

Radiator hoses need to be next..A primitive wire harness just to get it started and it would be nice to have the trans cooler inline..

Here is a picture of a mock up mounting for it..ordered some more AN connectors to make the final hookup..

[RockwoodMike]

THE DIPSTICK!!   I forgot all about it!!

Pic 1..This shows the original..It must have worn a hole in the side of it and someone patched in a section to repair it..Time to make a new one..What did you expect??

Pic 2..From the flange edge to the end of the cable dipstick..5 inches..New one needs to be the same thing..

Pic 3..Here is the new 3/8 NI-COP tubing,,Each end needs a flange put on it..
I have the tool to do just that..One of the better tool investments I have ever made..

Pic 4..Setting up the flange tool..

[RockwoodMike]

Pic 5..The results..That flange sets on the hole down at the pan..press it in and stops at the flange..

Pic 6..Here it is after flange on both ends..Piece of 3/8 fuel line acts as a vibration insulator between the moving engine and the mount at the radiator for the handle of the dipstick..

Pic 7..Bend and tweak the bend of the tube to clear the engine and exhaust pipe..

Pic 8..view from below..About 2 hours worth of work..

[RockwoodMike]

Lower radiator hose installed..Getting close to start up    

[Eyez Open]

Have you picked up a timing tape yet...might be a good time to clear coat/seal one on the balancer...

[RockwoodMike]

On the timing chain cover, there is a scale out to 20 degrees both ways..On the vibration dampener is the cut slot for the TDC..

I am going to make a few notches at the 10 degree points with the edge of a fine file..Just little nicks to mark the positions..

[RockwoodMike]

The rest of the floor was ripped out today..With all the leaks it had, the edges were rotted away..Rebuild and reinforce..New holding tanks..new gas lines, wire harness..The whole works..

From the Dodge factory, it was 3 feet shorter on the frame rails..Winnebago added that length in by butt welding 3 feet and then  plate on the outside to reinforce..

Need to check that point for fatigue and maybe add some more strength with more welded plates..

[RockwoodMike]

Here are some pics showing the 3 foot extension welding..The more I look at it, the less concern I have,,They did a pretty good job of it..

Welding in that diamond shape patch looks pretty well done..

Then was done on the inside ..

[RockwoodMike]

Taking out the gray water tank..Looks like it was repaired and done again many times..Remove it for a new one..

Pictures show the removal and inspection

[RockwoodMike]

Locations for the 2 tanks..32 gallons for storage each.

I bought 1 of the 2 tanks today..Here are the links to the 2 tanks..

https://www.ebay.com/itm/185233940138

WASTE TANK 31 Gallon RV BLACK WATER gray holding trailer sewer WTCD-3161

https://www.ebay.com/itm/203890164090

WASTE TANK GRAY 32 Gallon RV WATER holding shower dish hand concession WT-3232

[RockwoodMike]

Pics 1-2..Transmission cooler fully installed..  

Pic 3..Upper radiator hose installed..

Pic 4..Heater core 5/8 hose just looped for now till I start installing the dash and all of its components..

[LJ-TJ]

What a gorgeous piece of work. 

[RockwoodMike]

What a gorgeous piece of work. 

Thank You!! It did come out pretty nice and keeping the tranny cool should be no problem!!

Here is an original picture of how it was..

With the old picture, it shows how I need to install the horns and the windshield wiper reservoir tank..

[LJ-TJ]

You Sir, are blazing a trail for many to follow. I'm sure you don't realize how many of us you are inspiring to continue on our quests to bring our old girls back to life. So many questions to be answered. But at the same time showing us how to not only solve those problems but were to go to solve those problems. You are to be commended for your selfless efforts contributions to this site. I'm sure I speak for many when I say Thank you. And a special thanks to Mark for allowing this thread to continue.Between the two of you. Your saving many Vintage Winnebago's from going to the scrap yard. Oh! By the way I'm taking my old girl out again this weekend . Thanks for reintroducing us to each other again.

[RockwoodMike]

I'm sure you don't realize how many of us you are inspiring to continue on our quests to bring our old girls back to life

I just wish that if there is many of you out there working on the old girls, that you would share those projects with pictures and write ups..

Some get started and then instant stop..Examples would be Big Al's trip to Seattle for a wedding..Going along and then nothing..What happened to him..

And then MLW out of the Netherlands..Found himself a new engine..then nothing..

Anyway, I am not going anywhere and will keep posting

Thank You Again LJ-TJ..Your words are very encouraging..

[RockwoodMike]

I ripped out the rest of the floor the other day, for 2 reasons..The wood was rotted and to check out the extension of the frame from the factory install..

The extension was fine..but could be better..I would like to be able to pull  car trailer..And to reinforce the trailer hitch needs to be done..

A horizontal support for the last 51 years was just tacked in place.. It was not fully welded up..  

IT IS NOW!!

[RockwoodMike]

To reinforce the additional 3 feet, an added piece is welded in..Called boxing in the frame..Welded all up strong..Did the right side today..Left tomorrow.. 

[RockwoodMike]

Got a New tool!  

To adjust the idle screws..Comes with 4 adapters for different styles of screws..

You can store the extra adapters in the handle..

Last picture is for my Edelbrock 1905 (Rochester clone)

Gives you a nice long reach amongst all those tubes and hoses..