1986 454 Headers

[zMadMechanic]

Sanded/wire wheeled thoroughly (inside and out of frame rail and all nooks and crannies), acid etched, then three coats of POR-15 inside and out this whole area. Rusty lower control arm seen in pics will be replaced but easier to leave it alone until I reinstall the new upper control arm.

After hours and hours of wire wheeling and hand brushing loose rust:


Acid Etched


POR-15 (this is after the 1st coat):


Only used two 4oz cans - I'm always amazed by the coverage:

[RockwoodMike]

With POR 15, that frame is DONE!! ..I have heard it called the "Poor Man's Powder Coat"...It is a very tough finish and you really shouldn't have to worry about rust again..

I would be inclined when you get your new parts, to lay a coat on them too..

I just hope that isn't POR on your skin in the last photo..Because if it is, it will be there for a while!!

[RockwoodMike]

The second picture shows that you acid etched the steel...With what??
I was wondering if the etch was necessary ??The steel in the first pic was super clean..That would have been the POR 15 starting application time for me

[zMadMechanic]

Finally getting back on subject... finished installing the drivers side header today! Only very minor fitment issue with the heat shield for the engine mount... easily solved by a small hammer 

I used the included gasket and hardware which came with the Flowtech set. I added anti seize to the bolt threads after using a thread chaser on the block and cleaning out the holes with compressed air.

I also used spray-on, high-temp copper gasket sealant on the included gasket because I've always had good luck with Peramtex. All torqued down to 25 pounds, starting from the middle and working my way out like a tire, in multiple (many) sequences.

I'm pretty stoked with how it came out:

With POR 15, that frame is DONE!! ..I have heard it called the "Poor Man's Powder Coat"...It is a very tough finish and you really shouldn't have to worry about rust again..

I would be inclined when you get your new parts, to lay a coat on them too..

I just hope that isn't POR on your skin in the last photo..Because if it is, it will be there for a while!!

The second picture shows that you acid etched the steel...With what??
I was wondering if the etch was necessary ??The steel in the first pic was super clean..That would have been the POR 15 starting application time for me

I love Por-15, but I did have a poor (lol) experience on shiny bare metal on the fuel tank. I learned it REALLY needs some rust, or a very rough clean metal surface. It doesn't have anything to penetrate on bright bare metal and basically just peels up with any chipping of the paint or flexing of the metal whatsoever.  It also needs high humidity (60+%), but not too humdid (90+%)... I digress.

I decided to use Por-15's metal cleaner and acid etch (two separate products) in sequence, as directed, just to be sure on the frame rails. If it was all uniformly rusted, I wouldn't have bothered beyond thoroughly cleaning with 90% iso alcohol and compressed air. My frame had clean, bright spots after thoroughly wirebrushing... so I felt like my hands were tied. I want it to be one and done! Three coats + a top layer of rustoleum spray paint for good measure lol.

And yes, it sucks to get on your skin... ha!

[RockwoodMike]

Alright, Alright, Alright  

Looking at the collector, looks like there is no ground issues..Looks nice and tight up there..

I was wondering about the rest of the exhaust going back from the collector..Are you making your own muffler pipe??..Looks like you have a start on it already..

Well that wins round 1..What will round 2 hold for us all to see??

When you get your new suspension parts, I think some Rustolium paint will be in order..A nice satin black like your top coat on the frame..
I think the paint that comes on the parts is just a quick coat to prevent rust in storage and transportation..And it would not last long under the severe conditions of the road salts and rocks,etc..

Doing great!!

[zMadMechanic]

Slowly making progress! But not exactly on topic.

Last weekend I buttoned up the drivers side, except for brakes (doing them last) and sway bar: https://imgur.com/gallery/jLpARF8

New upper and lower control arms + HD springs + a Super Steer bell crank. The most time consuming part has been paint prep by far - but I'm very happy with the results. Fully sealed (Por-15) inside and out of the frame rail, then a layer of rustoleum spray paint, and a generous top coat of 'rust shield' spray-on oil coating... I will say it's not the most pretty coating (as in uniform) but that wasn't the point!

When it's all said and done, I shouldn't have to worry about rust for a good long time, and this old P30 should handle better than new!

Now onto the passenger side...

[RockwoodMike]

You can post pictures here..Limit of 1MB per picture and 4 pics per post..If you have more than 4 pics, just make another post for more pics

[Eyez Open]

You put on HD springs...do you know there ratings? I too put HD spring's on, rated for 3300lbs each spring. A yr later I'm having second thoughts, after just two short hops I can tell you the front end suspension is sprung way to tight.
I should note my front end is rated at 5000lbs.

[Sidestep]

Nice job!
Hedman Hedders on the '91, and couple of years on..

It's time to re-POR the frame, and all the Hi-Temp paint's burnt off the headers, so will buff off the rust and re do in even Higher-Temp this time..

[zMadMechanic]

You can post pictures here..Limit of 1MB per picture and 4 pics per post..If you have more than 4 pics, just make another post for more pics

I would post more pics if the 1MB size limit was upped significantly... my iPhone takes 4MB pics on the smallest setting and there's no way to natively convert the image size. Posting here requires emailing to myself, saving to my computer, and manually adjusting the size of the pics... a fairly annoying process that still pails in comparison to paint prepping a rusty, oil-soaked frame

You put on HD springs...do you know there ratings? I too put HD spring's on, rated for 3300lbs each spring. A yr later I'm having second thoughts, after just two short hops I can tell you the front end suspension is sprung way to tight.
I should note my front end is rated at 5000lbs.

I went with the HD version offered by Lesjöfors from RockAuto:
https://www2.rockauto.com/fr/moreinfo.php?pk=11716069&cc=1059139&pt=7512

I really like the HD Lesjöfors springs for my BMW (1988 735i), though I'm not sure (and can't find) the per-spring LB rating for the HD ones I purchased for my P30.

My hope is for improved handling and I've read countless threads on this topic - some saying you still need/want air bags even with HD springs. I decided to keep the airbags but my plan is to do some experimentation to see if they're needed and what the optimal pressure might be.

It seems the HD springs are generally highly reviewed by most folks. I'm curious why yours feels way too tight... slightly worried about my own now too!

Nice job! https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ITlLeTmiGQiwp6Gqv4cZu7hWFAcMeSvz/view?usp=sharing

Thank you! PS your image link was only visible by replying... weird


Overall update:
By Tuesday 9/3/24 I should finish the header install and suspension refresh on the passenger side! Just need to pay someone to weld the headers to the existing exhaust...

Then I will move on to brakes before finally getting back out on the road. Hopefully just in time for Fall!

[RockwoodMike]

my iPhone takes 4MB pics on the smallest setting and there's no way to natively convert the image size. Posting here requires emailing to myself, saving to my computer, and manually adjusting the size of the pics

I use a USB cable on my android..No email and it downloads in seconds..Edit in Paint.net..

[zMadMechanic]

Headed install is completed!

I'll add more detail later.

One thing top of mind: I had to reuse the original dipstick tube because RV 454s apparently have a longer dipstick (deeper pan?) than every replacement I tried. The new ones were all too short.

So don't bend or otherwise destroy your dipstick tube when replacing P30 exhaust manifolds!

[RockwoodMike]

Alright!!    

Looks like you have good clearance everywhere..Wires and the like away from the headers..After a good test drive, then you need to retorque the header bolts to be sure they are tight..

Cooler running engine..more low end torque..Need a easy flow muffler..not to loud but something that has that growl sound to it..

GREAT JOB!!

[Eyez Open]

Thank you for the post, as of yet I have not moved forward with headers. I like what I see the clearances look very good. In particular the drivers side is very tight on my p32 did you encounter any modification issues with yours?

As to suspension the springs I put on has the front end sprung so tight there is literally no give even when I jump on the front bumper. That is worrisome to me, there rated at 3500 lbs or so says the available information. I've never worked on heavy truck suspension so I can be quite suspicious at times.I will be going to Henderson suspension for a alignment....now the last thing I need to hear is...You Need To Start Over!

As to your setup..I highly recommend a set of ceramic boots/wires. Pay me later or now comes to mind.
https://www.summitracing.com/search?N=filter-options%3Ain-stock&SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=ceramic%20boot%20spark%20plug%20wires

[zMadMechanic]

I had no issues with fitment except for the positive wire going to the starter - I still need to adjust it slightly.

I guess one fitment related concern is the fact that OEM style long-sleeve plug wires won't work with headers. You need 90 degree boots. I had to run the wires under the manifold vs on top like I expected due to clearance issues. Hopefully will be fine longterm as I went with extra thick high temp silicone plug wires (10mm vs normal 6 or 8mm).

Here is a video clip from the first time running with the new headers:

https://youtube.com/shorts/3qE_7ie1-TM?si=2KOd27Rf6i5r17ni

Still not connected to the exhaust system but it sounds SO good in person! Also feels extremely peppy but that could be a byproduct of replacing all the vacuum lines along with plugs and wires.

[Eyez Open]

Yes it does sound quite well, it seems apparent your vales are sealing quite well...for what ever reason I noticed  the power pusling in the video.

Due to the fact you have a 80's 454 you might run the engine to 3000 rpm at that rpm adjust your timing to 36 degrees, let her idle and then trim your idle speed to 800 along with idle trim jets. No vacuum advance to be used. Now power brake it, as long as there is no pings/rattles your on the hunt as to what your engine likes as to timing. I've seen peanut heads take 45 degrees at 3000 and not a ping rattle nor pop.

If you decide to tune in this manner the last step is to limit the vacuum advance. That's a whole different system but easy enough. Never run vacuum advance without modifying it first...if you turn up your mechanical advance as noted above. All attempts need to be made when the engine is throughly heat soaked.