Photos of Roof Repair & Replacement

[Oz]

Cool. I replaced the link in the original post.
Thanks!

[Ellie]

Help, I have one of these that needs a little roof help and I have no idea who to contact? A roofing company ya think??

[Oz]

Hello and welcome!  Most of these flat roof RVs have roof issues when people buy them. However, a better description exactly what a little roof help is would be helpful.  Problems range from leaks around the air conditioner  and vents, roof seams and just resealing to major roof repair. All are already well covered here in previous topics.

But no, a roofing company is not a business which does RV roofs.
Most people do it themselves, mostly due to the cost of having someone else do it.

An RV shop would be the place if you can't do it yourself.

[revmadre2]

Am I to understand that you put plywood over this rib structure, and painted with Kool Seal primer followed by Kool Seal elastomeric?

Just trying to understand the process... as my 75 Indian is currently a convertible... this might steer me a different way.

I'd never considered losing the metal altogether.

Impressive collection of photos.

Thanks,
Bill

Where are these photos?

Actually, nevermind. I found them. Thought this was from brians1969, not HandierMan1. I just can't figure out how to delete this post or I would.

[revmadre2]

2x4s were used for the trusses.    They are cut to look like an arch.   I just used a saber saw.     The ends are 3/4 inch, the centers are the full height of the 2x4.     To make a tapered/dome affect to the roof, the last truss from the ends are only 2 inches high.    For the top, I used 1/4 plywood, it formed nice and is light.    Then I glued rubber EDPM on top.     I used carpet glue, because I'm cheap, I also glued Styrofoam to the backside for insulation. 












(Later I replaced the black EDPM with WHITE, the black got rather hot in the sun and was hard to keep the RV cool inside. )

I'm realizing there are 3 roofing remodel stories here: HandierMan1, brians1969 and ibdilbert01, but only HandierMan1's photos are available. How can I get access to photos from the roofing projects of brians1969 and ibdilbert01?

[revmadre2]

Working on resurrecting a 1974 Winne Brave 19'...

I think I read somewhere in this thread that you could do a combination of roofing treatments. EDPM + aluminum, EDPM + rubberized paint, etc. I have some questions about that in addition to some questions relating to roof/side seams.

After some research on these products, I'm going with TPO. I learned that it's not too smart to put fiberglass over EDPM/TPO, but I really like the idea of doing two treatments, for good measure if nothing else.

I'll be following the rounded truss suggestions here and laying down 1/2" CDX ply over the trusses. Then laying down 10oz fiberglass cloth + epoxy resin. Then putting on TPO with acrylic water based adhesive.

HEre are my questions:
1. Is this overkill? Will just the TPO suffice?
2. Will the acrylic water based adhesive stick to the fiberglass/epoxy resin?
3. Would I be wasting time and money to top all this off with a coat of the snow roof? (I really like the reflecting 90% of sun's rays idea.)

Now, about where the roof attaches to the sides when using EDPM or TPO. I assume this is kind of like putting a swatch of decorative cloth under the screw top of a jar of canned jelly to give away at Christmas. You want the TPO to hang down far enough over the seams and then tack on a flat trim strip (screw strip) with insert trim. To clean it up, you would trim off the excess TPO that is hanging below the trim strip.

Here are my questions about this:
1. Y'all mention "taping up the seams." What kind of tape are you all talking about? Flex tape? some kind of gasketing tape? I need brands/labels/widths/materials--all this in the spirit of proper leak prevention, of course.
2. How do you deal with the back corners? Find a corner screw strip? Or bend one myself?
3. Finally, if I do what I have described in the Christmas jelly analogy, do I need to install a "gutter" of some kind? If so, could you point me in the direction of the general idea? In my research I see there is a combo gutter/trim screw strip. Is that what I need to get?

There is a lot here, I realize. Thank you in advance for your efforts.

[Oz]

As for what sticks to what, I don't know for certain but, I worked with fiberglass and as far as I know, just about adhesive will stick to it. What will stick to your proposed cover material is really the question.

You can never protect your roof too much but, you can have too much protection on your roof.

The snow foam sealant is a good idea but, how long does it last?
Will you have to scrape it or whatever to get it off? Will that damage your primary roof protection?

The sealant tape. I used eternabond double sided. Works great. There are others highly recommended but I can't personally vouch for them.
Width. Wide enough to completely cover edge to edge of the inside of the molding.

The corner pieces. You'll need to make them. Adding all the additional thickness to the roof layers will push the molding upward and outward (from lapping the EDPM over the edges) creating a gap between the original lengths.
Important note. Adding more height to the roof layers will also reduce the amount of framing wood area available to sink your molding screws into. Too high and they'll split the wood.

Rain gutters. Not necessary but very nice to have.

Also, don't use stainless steel screws. Stainless and aluminum in contact create an undesirable chemical reaction. Use anodized screws.

Realize too, you'll be adding a lot of top weight compared to the original, thermacore roof.

Still, using arched rafters and improved roofing layer will bring you years of sag free, leak free enjoyment!

[revmadre2]

Sounds like I need to just stick with the TPO, and ditch the fiberglass.

Thank you for your good words here. I'm grateful.

[Eyez Open]

This may sound off but I must ask.

Your doing a entire new roof?

If so dimensions.

If your patching a old fiberglass roof back together epoxy resin would be the first choice. It does not take a back seat to any glue.

[Mlw]

Well,
To be honest I will admit that you have far better working products than we have in Europe because of environmental lunacy that even California looks like a mild state on environmental rules but I still don't quite understand why you think TPO is a good replacement for Epoxy/fiberglass.

I'm working on my RV for 1½ year now and seen dozens of video's of resealing the roof. Some with success (or so they say) others with leaks just weeks after. All did the same. Get compound, roll it on the roof and for all the video's I really see it as just a roll of the dice, with one it worked fine, with the other it started leaking again within the week. I saw TPO too but it just can't convince me. One sharp branch hitting the TPO the wrong way and it's gone.

The question why nobody uses fiberglass  is simple. It is really expensive. I spend €750,= buying epoxy and fiberglass and double coated lacquer and that was with a 15% discount. Normally it would have costed me €862,50.

Now the reason I'm going for fiberglass/Epoxy because I know it's strong.

You see, I worked for a yachtbroker in the sailing industry, so I worked a lot with fiberglass/Epoxy but next to this I also worked at a partycafé as a deejay for 5 years and this café was open not for party's but PARTYS!!! about 150 days a year. There is one old video out there of the night before queensday (similar to independence day) that gives a very humble Idea of what we did.

Friday and Saturday the place was packed with partypeople.  We are talking around a thousand people per weekend partying like there was no tomorrow, So at the end of the night we didn't use brooms to sweep the floor but shovels to collect all the glass and the debris left. After that we sprayed the complete floor with a hose, soap and chloride to scrub it and wipe it with floor wipers.
Now the reason I'm telling this: the floor was just pinewood with a 1.2 inch layer of epoxy over it, and it always amazed me the floor held up so well and in the 4th year it was finally time to renew the epoxy only because it started to show leaks.. So get the bad parts out putting new wood in and reseal the complete floor.

Now if it can take this kind of abuse, it will close off your roof and not for just a few weeks and isn't that exactly what we want after all?

[Oz]

Fiberglass isn't the only thing which works and, it'll leak in days or weeks too, IF you don't prep correctly. Also, where did the leaks occur in all those videos you mentioned?  Right through the TPO or EDPM or other sealing method? I'm 99.9% certain the answer is no.  It's through roof fixtures and seams along the perimeter which weren't properly prepped or sealed so, no matter which material you use, including fiberglass, you can have good, durable roof protection or you can have leaks.

[78chief]

Les
Thanks for all your help on this one...Alan is half way through with putting on the plywood on the top.   We have purchased sheet aluminum and we are going to place that on top of the plywood afterwards....it is all one piece of aluminum...and then we will work on the coating.   You and Wilbur have been a life saver!
Donna

Sorry to bring an old thread to life but i tried to private message and the site would not allow me to at this time. I was curious how using 1 piece sheet aluminum had worked out for anyone who has used it and any tips anyone can give. Im going to be tackling my roof repair soon and can use all the advice i can get. Im going to do the arched trusses same as the op. Can anyone tell me more info on the trusses? What are the measurements where and since i dont have mine homw from storage yet how wide is a 78 chieftain roof?  Thanks for any advice and great job on the pics op. I could just use some more information. I was considering using epdm on the riof but would consider other options like aluminum ect...Thanks mike

[RockwoodMike]

When the Winnebago factory made the original roof. it involved a layer of 1/8th luan with foam sheet topped with sectioned aluminum sheet..About 4 feet width for the aluminum..with a special crease joint to make a large piece..Take a look at the picture..you can see the seams..

You can buy the aluminum in 4 foot sheets, but how do you create the seams??

The factory had a machine that would fold the creases to create the seams

Plus this 3 layer system was glued and pressed together on a very large press machine..

What I am saying is that you won't be able to create a roof doing it this way..

All of these roofs being fixed involves removing the original and then replace with wood tapered to the edges..

[RockwoodMike]

here are some pics from my total tearout..

Using a kiln dried 2x3 bought from Lowe's, I tapered the piece with a flat area in the center about 16 inches wide and then a taper cut to the edge to about 1.5 inches..

16 inch width between each rafter..
The other pictures show progress of it all going in..

I plan on using these roll on roof that come 8 feet wide by what ever length you need to cover the whole roof in one piece

[78chief]

What are most people using to cut the trusses?

[RockwoodMike]

If you want a full curved top, then a saber saw would allow you to make the curve..

If you do it like I did...where there is a 16 inch flat area in the center then a tapered straight surface out to the edge..A skil saw would cut a straight line..

Here is a cad drawing screen shot of how I did my rafters..2.5 inches tall in the center, tapered to the edge to 1.25 inches at the edge..

[RockwoodMike]

Here is a nice video showing how this lady made custom roof rafters being curved to match the original roof..
You should watch all she put up in repairing this travel trailer

[78chief]

For those who have removed the origional roof what should I expect just trying to make an attack plan. Should I expect to remove the tin then what's under it then the int roof in that order or all 3 together... just trying to plan

[RockwoodMike]

My motorhome was a total disaster..Leaks..rot..mold..everything..The roof had caved in, thus wrecking the cabinets..everything..

I gutted the interior..That is when I discovered that there is no solid frame work to this..

thin paneling for the interior..foam..then an aluminum skin..all held together with glue..

Picture shows my first attempt..after ripping the roof off, I glued these 1x4s to the top edge of the wall..then built the roof as shown..

Then I moved to the walls..right at the point where the wall attaches to the floor is a 2x4..screwed into the floor..mine was totally rotted..It was just rotted dust..

the walls had no frame work..just foam..So right now the roof is being held up with stilts ..And I am making stud(2x2) walls to replace the foam only walls..

I took the original roof of in 3 foot section..just cut it with a skill(circular) saw..At the top edge of the wall, the roof wraps over the wall edge and has 10 billion staples that must be removed..

Some of the cabinets were screwed into the ceiling..But that wasn't a problem for me because the cabinets and everything else were removed..

So I just cut the roof in sections and threw them off to the side..

So after building the roof, then I discovered the walls were just foam and rot..

[RockwoodMike]

Here is an example of the interior rot I was dealing with..Interior front right corner at the dash..That was solid plywood that was just rotted dust..

That is why I have ripped down all the wall to create everything new

[78chief]

My motorhome was a total disaster..Leaks..rot..mold..everything..The roof had caved in, thus wrecking the cabinets..everything..

I gutted the interior..That is when I discovered that there is no solid frame work to this..

thin paneling for the interior..foam..then an aluminum skin..all held together with glue..

Picture shows my first attempt..after ripping the roof off, I glued these 1x4s to the top edge of the wall..then built the roof as shown..

Then I moved to the walls..right at the point where the wall attaches to the floor is a 2x4..screwed into the floor..mine was totally rotted..It was just rotted dust..

the walls had no frame work..just foam..So right now the roof is being held up with stilts ..And I am making stud(2x2) walls to replace the foam only walls..

I took the original roof of in 3 foot section..just cut it with a skill(circular) saw..At the top edge of the wall, the roof wraps over the wall edge and has 10 billion staples that must be removed..

Some of the cabinets were screwed into the ceiling..But that wasn't a problem for me because the cabinets and everything else were removed..

So I just cut the roof in sections and threw them off to the side..

So after building the roof, then I discovered the walls were just foam and rot..

I'm dealing with basically the opposite the interior in mine is in great shape visually at least the previous owner re did it. But the roof has a few small sags that collect water when it rains and I dont want it to get worse so I'm re doing the roof and trying to keep the inside in the best shape I can. The previous owner did a pretty decent job on the inside but for the exterior roof he just slathered many many gallons of epdm rubber rood coating on it and called it good but I know it won't last like this and want to fix it before it becomes worse. Thanks for the reply you have quite a project going there good on you for saving one from the scrap yard. Just curious I see others used 2x4 and I think you had said you used 2x3 why did you just prefer less height? Also what thickness ply wood are you using for the roof and what truss spacing? Hows it feel walking on it ext... pretty solid?   Thanks for the info mike

[RockwoodMike]

I used 2x3 Kiln dried wood because all the 2x4 wood was not kiln dried..heavy with water..Besides, you are looking for a small taper in the roof to create runoff..

So my 2x3 has a total height of 2.5 inches in the middle and taper to 1.25 at the edges..Add 1/4 inch exterior grade plywood on top of that and you have 1.5 total thickness at the edge..

That 1.5 thickness is the same as the original roof..That can match the wall to reattach (staples, screws) the wall to the roof..

Now here is the problem with all this and I am dealing with it right now..

That taper that you are creating has to go flat again at the very front of the motorhome..The front "eyebrow" look at leading edge of the roof is flat..

How to go from a taper to a flat area is going to be something I will tackle soon..(Next week)

If you are saying the interior is in good shape, I would carefully peel the aluminum off..little pieces at a time..Then carefully remove the flat foam..little pieces at a time..

Thus leaving the 1/8th plywood that is the interior ceiling..

Create your roof rafters..stuff insulation between the rafters..top with 1/4 ply..and then roll on a rubber or other type of glue on roll roofing that you see all new and white..

I placed my rafters 16 on center..1/4 exterior ply..All glued and screwed..

[78chief]

I used 2x3 Kiln dried wood because all the 2x4 wood was not kiln dried..heavy with water..Besides, you are looking for a small taper in the roof to create runoff..

So my 2x3 has a total height of 2.5 inches in the middle and taper to 1.25 at the edges..Add 1/4 inch exterior grade plywood on top of that and you have 1.5 total thickness at the edge..

That 1.5 thickness is the same as the original roof..That can match the wall to reattach (staples, screws) the wall to the roof..

Now here is the problem with all this and I am dealing with it right now..

That taper that you are creating has to go flat again at the very front of the motorhome..The front "eyebrow" look at leading edge of the roof is flat..

How to go from a taper to a flat area is going to be something I will tackle soon..(Next week)

If you are saying the interior is in good shape, I would carefully peel the aluminum off..little pieces at a time..Then carefully remove the flat foam..little pieces at a time..

Thus leaving the 1/8th plywood that is the interior ceiling..

Create your roof rafters..stuff insulation between the rafters..top with 1/4 ply..and then roll on a rubber or other type of glue on roll roofing that you see all new and white..

I placed my rafters 16 on center..1/4 exterior ply..All glued and screwed..

I will stay tuned let me know hat you do in the front.

[RockwoodMike]

Maybe I am making a mistake telling you all about this taper roof scheme..

What if you rip the original roof off that has sagged ..instead of using tapered wood...you use 1.25 square steel tubing for the rafters..

Maybe doubled up at the air conditioner..You would have a flat roof again but very much sag resistant..

Top the 1.25 tubing with 1/4 ply and you would have a strong flat roof to match the front.

I am ripping everything..You are trying to preserve the interior..That might be a better way to go(going flat again but stronger)

[78chief]

Not a bad idea but I'm going to hopefully just do it once and for all and I think a taper is a better option. No issues with roof ac I no longer have one I have a mini split with the out door unit installed in the origional on board genorator location and the cooling unit above the bathroom.