Dog House engine cover - Latches and noise/heat insulation

Started by MSN Member, July 12, 2009, 03:36 AM

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Wasserhaus1

Sent: 8/12/2005

On my last trip I found out on Rt 80 that I need to replace the "make-do" latches that a PO had on the dog house.  It vibrated free and wanted to take off like a freesbie when I was whipping down the road doing 55mph.  The other motorists that passed by did a double take as they looked because they thought they saw a vision of Pope John in the Pope Mobile with the way I was holding the steering wheel while leaning to the right so I could keep my hand on it unitl I could pull over. 

Would anyone have a good picture I could view of what is needed to replace the latches.  In addition, I am wondering if there is insulation or such that is safe to use on the underside of the housing that I could use as a noise deadener.

Thanks

Jim 

denisondc

Sent: 8/12/2005

I have the little rubber items that hold the sides of the engine cover down.  They have a sort of Tee shaped head. There is a bulge in them halfway up, which fits into a matching steel "hangar" on each side of the engine cover. At the back of the engine cover is a latch like a double hung sash window has, which keeps keep the back end from lifting up. I would think that camper supply might have them, or a boat place, or a place handling parts for agricultural equipment. There are very similar to the latches holding the hood down on a 32 Chevy.
I haven't put anything on the inside of my engine cover, because I dont want anything to be coming unglued and drooping onto the motor, and I dont want to drill holes in it either.

Jlogue88

Sent: 8/13/2005

I used the noise and heat insulation found in jegs, its double foiled backed and you cant hear the motor any more. to install I used 5 small headed screws that I painted to match the carpet then used large washers on the other side.

papamgb1


Oz

Sent: 8/13/2005

JEGs and Summit are 2 of the most popular OEM and after-market parts and accessories automotive catalogs.  Go to the resources section in the Members' Area to get the direct links and find other valuable resources.
1969 D22, 2 x 1974 D24 Indians, 1977 27' Itasca

Wasserhaus1

Sent: 8/13/2005

Denison - thanks for the reference and explanation.  RVdude - thanks for the jegs reference and installation tip.  Papamgb1, I'm from NJ and I didn't know the jegs reference either.  Thanks for asking the question.


- Jim

ClydesdaleKevin

Sent: 8/14/2005

I have a two piece cover as a "doghouse" on the shroud.  The upside is that its huge and flat, the dogs and lay on it while we are traveling (taking turns, of course...lol), and with both pieces removed, I have incredible engine access from above.

The downside is that while Jeep style latches work great on the lower flat portion, the front panel leaks hot air unless I screw it down, which is what we are doing right now.  We thought of Jeep style latches for that, but they would interfere with my driving leg, which is tight against it while driving.  Anyone ever see a sort of a camming latch that is extremely low profile, similar to outboard motor cowling latches?  If I use a latch, which we want to do (its a pain unscrewing the panel each time I want to check power steering fluid or belt tightness), we need one that will cinch down the panel tight to keep hot air from blowing on my leg.  Any ideas?

Kev
Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

HAL

Sent: 8/15/2005

have you tried your local Winnebago dealer? My catalog shows their part numbers for the rubber latch is . 0091749-01-000 rubber latch 5-3/4", 009149-02-000 keeper. 023303-01-000 rubber latch 3" w/keeper.
  HAL

rlm98253

Sent: 8/20/2005

Jim:

The best product I have found for sound deadening the dog house is Sound Stop Foam. It is available from West Marine.

3M Fast Cure 5200 Polyurethane Adhesive/Sealant will securely hold the Sound Stop Foam in place. It, too, is available from West Marine.

The products are sold at most larger marine supply dealers.

Regards,

Dick

Oz

Sent: 8/20/2005

Thanks for re-iterating what I told Kevin at the Jam about using the common window latches for his dog house, Tom... I totally forgot to add that to my previous post.

I personally like Summit and JEGs because I've purchased many parts from them which are of superior quality, they ship very quickly, and their customer support is very good (although not perfect, they are 100% better than places like AutoZone and Advanced Auto).  They carry Mopar performance parts as well although they are quite pricey compared to the other after-market replacements.
1969 D22, 2 x 1974 D24 Indians, 1977 27' Itasca

Cooneytoones

Sent: 8/20/2005

I used a house water heater blanket...some 3 M high temp spray on glue, and the high temp (metal) tape that comes with the blanket.  I had to buy one more roll of the tape to fit it all the way around the outside, and a few across the center......cut the blanket to fit the underside of the doghouse...spray the inside and lay the blanket in, then tape to secure.....mine works great for both sound dampening and keeping the heat from the engine out.
I haven't decided on what type of latch to get yet...but I'm leaning toward some kind of large tool box latch....I need something that will pull down on the doghouse to seal it better....

Timmy

jbmhotmail

Sent: 8/23/2005

Kev,
Would aircraft cam-locks work for securing your doghouse?
Jerry

Wasserhaus1

Sent: 8/23/2005

Timmy,
Thanks for your solution.
Dumb question, but is there a concern with the house hot water blanket "taking" the heat from the engine without it degrading, melting or flaming ? 

Dick,

Thanks for the reference to the Sound Stop Foam AND links.  Exactly what I was looking for ...   I'm attracted to the hot water heater blanket as a cheaper alternative to this product but have concerns over safety. West Marines product is designed and tested for engine housing application while a hot water tank blanket mmm I would say has good chance of not being.

Jim

denisondc

Sent: 8/25/2005

I don't have any noise problem either. Sure there is a good bit of fan roar if I am grinding up a long hill in 2nd, but I can still converse above that. We seldom travel with the windows shut, so the wind noise is Always predominant, and its not worth using the radio when going at highways speeds - but due to the wind, not the motor.
Lying down on the bed at the back of mine, I get to hear the rumbling of the differential in operation, but it doesn't stop me from falling asleep back there.

Wasserhaus1

From: Wasserhaus1
Sent: 8/25/2005

Tom,

Perhaps because mine is a 1968 there is a difference.  When underway, the noise is so loud that I cannot carry on a conversation with out shouting nor can I hear the radio. 

Jim

ClydesdaleKevin

Sent: 8/25/2005

A word about noise.

I still haven't gotten my procrastinating-arse to a home depot to get window latches to seal out the hot air, but the noise from our engine is minimal, even pushing uphill in 2nd gear.

With the cover off, the fan roars...with the cover on, its quiet as a kitten.  Driving with the windows open is much noisier than the engine could ever be...lol.  Note also that while my cover originally had some sort of black fibrous insulation glued to it, it was long-gone when we bought the rig.  The only thing insulating the 1/2 plywood cover is the carpeting, and like I said, its pretty quiet.

The generator box still has all its insulation, which appears to be the same type.

Kev
Kev and Patti, the furry kids, our 1981 Ford F-100 Custom tow vehicle, and our 1995 Itasca Suncruiser Diesel Pusher.

Cooneytoones

Sent: 8/25/2005
J
I'm that water heater blanket material is the same exact material they used inside car hoods for years, they use it in van, and truck doghouses and it is used in firewalls on several vehicles today.....thin metal foil over a fibered material.....won't even burn if a flame hits it.....that is the reason they are safe to use on Gas water heaters....I didn't put mine on so much for the noise, like Tom and Kev said, the window noise is louder than my engine noise too...I put it on to keep some of the heat off the doghouse... and out of my rig...and it is now much more tolerable now...once I get the dh to seal it, should be wonderful...if the engine doesn't burn that black.... correlated cardboard doghouse or your rugs...than there is almost zero change the blanket could even melt.....I've seen em melt, but it takes direct flame for several minutes.....I'll take a picture of mine and post it..doesn't make it any heavier or cumbersome to remove the dh...with the blanket in it....

Timmy

Wasserhaus1

Sent: 8/26/2005

Hey thanks for the response on the safety of the Hot Water Heater Blanket.  Who woulda thunk ....

I will revisit that product.  What I remember seeing was a dense insulation (spongy) in a plastic jacket.  That was before I bought this house, and have the water heated through the furnace.  I have to remember as I get older things change.  LOL ( Imagine Woodstock was 35 years ago this weekend!)

Regarding noise, I will also take a look under the MH on both the driver side and passenger sides between the front nose and the slant of the floor to see if it will take some Sound Stop Foam.  In the 68, the front grill does not swing out to access the radiator and engine. It's fixed and in addition to the doghouse has a small box configuration similar to LMAO Kevin's description that allows access to the radiator cap.  I suspect, a good deal of  noise is coming up from the floor.

kd4pbs-1

Sent: 8/28/2005

C'mon! Everyone knows you're supposed to use a big long bungee cord to hold the doghouse down! Jeez!

OldEdBrady

Sent: 8/28/2005

I REFUSE to go back to bungee cords for ANYTHING!

Wasserhaus1

Sent: 8/28/2005

Timmy (Cooney Tunes) thanks for the posting the pic of the your insulated dog house.  Good reference for us "visual" folks.

Woodstock 36 years ago not 35 ... what can I say ... the 70's were very good to me ... lost a year there somewhere.

Mr. Old Ed Brady - Never say never ... to bungee cords ... when in a pinch and you need to string up you Budweiser beer can lights on your campsite they can come to your aid and give you the extra length and right amount of tension that you need.
- Voice of recent experience

Cooneytoones

Sent: 8/29/2005

That photo didn't come out as good as I'd like , my camera batteries died right after taking....I'll post a better one on this board for the folks who can't get to the pictures........I think all of us from that generation lost a year or two, in fact, I've seen a few who are just getting back, and some that are still there..... I was there, from what I can remember. I still have my ticket...Cost was $24 for three days....of  rain, mud and freezing.

Timmy

JCMAC

Sent: 9/19/2005

  On my '72 D22C, I use "over center" latches in the rear corners and truck hood type-spring loaded "T" handle hold downs on the front corners.
  I hope you know what I mean?
John

DampDude007

Sent: 1/3/2006 7:56 PM

www.northerntool.com search for rubber hood catch to keep the doghouse down.
Dude

Wendell

Sent: 1/5/2006

When I first got my Winnie I had a lot of problems with wind noise, fan noise and heat and dirt and blowing into the Winnie, even with the doghouse securely fastened with T-handles. One thing I did recently that made a world of difference was to fabricate an air baffle out of sheet metal that blocks out most of the fan noise.  It's mounted to a bracket behind the radiator fan and deflects the air coming over and through the radiator down rather than letting it buffet the doghouse.  My rig had one originally as I suspect most of them did, but somewhere in the 32 years since it was manufactured  it got tossed away. 

I glued insulation to the doghouse too and now I can talk or listen to the radio or whatever and the doghouse doesn't try to levitate off the floor anymore.