Dodge 440 to 5.9 Cummins Diesel conversion

[Wantawinnie]

Wow that looks really good!  I need to pick myself up an arc welder one of these days and hone my skills on some scrap metal.  I used to be pretty good with a stick welder...way WAY back in high school shop class!  Anyone know if a 120 volt stick welder will weld anything worth welding, like projects like the one above, or parts on my Jeep frame, etc.?  The one I used was 220, but access to that voltage is VERY limited for us out here on the road.

Kev

Hey Kev,

Everything I've done on this swap has been with a cheap 110V wire feed from Harbor Freight. I've got a big Miller wire feed but this one does fine on lighter stuff. Don't know if it will penetrate enough for frame work though.

[ClydesdaleKevin]

Thats why I'm thinking stick welder.  More penetration.  I've used a 120 wire feed, and they suck for frame work...any thicker metal.  Wondering if the arc welder stick welders have the same problem in 120, or can dig deep enough with a slow hand.

Kev

[Wantawinnie]

Still working away on the details. Once I get the alternator wiring figured out that should conclude the adventures in wiring for the most part.

I've ran the Gear vendor wiring and mounted the control box under the dash.

Eliminated the 2 ammeters as they will not work with the 120 amp Cummins alternator. By rearranging the original dash layout I was able to use the extra space to install the Autometer gauges in the existing Winnebago dash. It really cleans up the area and it is neat seeing boost, pyrometer, and trans temp gauges in a factory dash. Turns out the original Voltmeter was broken from someone tightening it during installation. The entire face is broken away from the gauge and the readings are way off. I got a new Autometer Voltmeter ordered and will get some pics of the new dash setup.

I also decided to eliminate the electric fuel shutoff solenoid on the Cummins injection pump. This solenoid is what shuts down the engine. By removing the small spring and plunger inside the solenoid I now can manually shut down the engine with a pull cable.(just like a older tractor if any of you are familiar with the setup) I went this route because the solenoids can fail and leave you stranded, the constant power to elecric circuit may pose a problem with the older ignition switches, and new solenoids are over $150. The pull cable was $10 at Farm and Fleet and is pretty foolproof. When you want the stop the engine just pull the cable and shut off the ignition switch.

This is the port for the solenoid once it is removed. You can see the diesel fuel in there yet.



This is the spring and plunger that comes out. Just put the remaining plug back in the hole to seal it up.



Oil gauge and water temp gauges are hooked up and working.

The speedometer never worked so I took the cables out. Both were twisted off on the ends. I don't know if the cruise control failed and ruined them or what happened. Luckily my parts Winnie had a perfect main cable that was long enough to reach down under the rig to the Gear Vendor speed sensor cable that controls the overdrive electonics. Before hooking it up I tested the cable and speedometer with a drill and the speedometer works fine.

Today I started to tackle dropping the rear fuel tank. I need to make sure all the gas is out, check the inside of the tank, and the condition of the hoses. I also have to run a diesel return line back to it as well. I've got it all loosened and ready to come out but it is a tight fit and I didn't have time to finish tonight.

Hopefully, I am not too far away from trying to fire this thing up and check to see if anything leaks, moans, or groans.



 

[Froggy1936]

Hi wanna i need an opion on my 77 gas tank i eliminated the vent (a short hose with a check ball in it And ya it would leak if tank was filled to the brim ) Then i used this outlet wich i drilled out to full line size (was just a small hole in a plug in the metal fitting) For the fuel return from the TBI setup My Question is should i try to find a vented cap or do you think the return will handle it Also the generator fuel supply line should be empty as i shut off the small electric pump wich drains the carburator so no worries about carb gummy. Wich i just thought of what are you doing for Genny fuel ? Frank

[Wantawinnie]

I would go with a vented cap. Back in High School I converted a '82 Monte Carlo from diesel to gas and there was no vent in the tank.  Being young and broke I just turned the original cap out one turn and it vented fine.

I am using the front auxiliary fuel tank for the generator. My main tank is 50 gallons so it should be fine with the diesel for driving range.

[Wantawinnie]

Dropped the fuel tank yesterday in order to fully drain the gas and run the new fuel lines. I got an additional 5 gallons out of the tank after siphoning it dry from the pickup tube. There is a bend in the fill tube and some baffling in the tank so I couldn't siphon from the filler. It needed to come out anyway to check it over. The sending unit is to the left, the top tube was the engine feed, hole directly below was the carbon canister line, and the generator feed is on the right.



I will be using the 2nd pickup tube for the return line and plumbing the generator to the auxiliary fuel tank instead. Pickup tubes are 1/2" lines with the generator tube an inch shorter so it wouldn't run the tank dry.



Here is the nice and messy surprise tucked up in the framerail. Some little critters had a nice home in the past. There was a bunch on top of the tank as well. Most of it ended up on me when the tank came down. D:oH!





The tank is in good shape on the inside with no visible rust. I wired brushed and scraped the outside down, applied a coat of Rustoleum primer, and two coats of Rustoleum gloss black. I will be running new 3/8" steel lines up to the diesel, the old fuel supply line will feed the generator, and the emission line from the carbon canister will serve as the diesel return line.

[Wantawinnie]

Here is the new dash setup with the Autometer gauges. I removed the ammeter's and put the boost and pyrometer gauges in their place. Because I will only be using one fuel tank for the diesel I removed the auxiliary tank guage and moved the main fuel gauge up where the original broke voltmeter was. That left two open spaces along the bottom row where the trans temp and new volt gauge went. I am going to repurpose the fuel selector switch for reading the dual trans temp senders in the line and pan. Perhaps down the road I will replace the oil pressure, water temp, and fuel gauge with autometers to make everything the same. The originals work fine so not a top priority and the guages go pretty well together IMO.

BTW: you can see my engine shut off pull cable in the lower right corner. Took out the manual fan switch that I had there and will locate it somewhere else.

[ClydesdaleKevin]

I love the big "HALF" on the gas gauge!!!   :)rotflmao :)rotflmao :)rotflmao

Keep it comin'!

Awesome job so far!

Kev

[DaveVA78Chieftain]

Looking good.  Glad it is working out in your favor. - Dave

[Wantawinnie]

Thanks again for the help with the alternator wiring questions. 

[Wantawinnie]

The alternator wiring is finished. I used the factory wiring from the Dodge truck which included the correct fusible link for the application. I also separated the voltage regulator wiring out of the Dodge harness and used it. For mounting the voltage regulator I used the original Winnebago bracket that mounted on the rear of the 440. It mounted nicely on the frame of the engine compartment surround under the floor. I ran the wiring in plastic loom around the rear of the engine to keep it away from the exhaust and engine heat. It worked out well using U brackets insulated with rubber and screwed up into the floor. Nice to have that done. Thanks Dave!

Next was routing the fuel lines. I bought 20' of 3/8" steel brake line in 5' sections and 3 connectors. After looking things over it seemed easier to route it on the driver side frame rail instead of the passenger side. In order to mount it I bought a bunch of 3/8" rubber line clamps and some L brackets. Using existing frame holes the L brackets were bolted to the frame and the line mounted to them with the clamps. I did use a pipe bender to make a few bends at the tank and engine side. Everything in between was a fairly straight shot and the finished line ended up about 6" from the fuel pump line.

For the return line I marked out on the original passenger side carbon canister line where to bend the line and bring it over to the driver side. It had to be removed from the line mounts and slid back, then the 90 degree bend was made to jump over to the driver side and then another 90 degree bend to head forward to the engine fuel pump. The line was then put back in, mounted with some of the rubber clamps, and it came about 3" from the fuel return line on the engine.

Back on the tank side I had to buy a new 3/8" 90 degree brass fitting to screw in the pickup tube for the engine feed. The original fitting and pickup tube from the generator worked fine for the return side line.

For the generator gas feed I unhooked the fuel tank lines for the main and auxiliary tanks at the transfer valve and connected them together with a small run of rubber hose. The line going to the rear tank now serves as the gas feed line to the generator.

Here is a pic of the gas tank going back in. I slid it back under the rig on a piece of cardboard to keep from scratching up the paint and connected up the new fuel lines with rubber hose. After it was in the right spot I used some 2 x 2 wood blocking and lifted it up far enough to get the floor jack under it. The hardest part was hooking up the sending unit wire as I could barely reach it. Once the tank was lifted into place with the jack the tanks straps were tightened back up. Finally, the filler and breather hoses were hooked back up.



So, the list is pretty short on things to be done before firing it up. I have to fill the tank with diesel and prime the lines and pump, check over and secure any wiring to make sure it is safe, hook up and secure the wiring for the new gauges, fill the Gear Vendor with fresh fluid, install the air cleaner element, and hook up the factory overdrive wiring. With any luck I might get it running in a couple days and get the transmission fluid in to see if the old girl will move under its own power.

[LJ-TJ]

Man can't thank you enough for taking the time to bring us along on this amazing adventure. It's challenging enough doing the work without stopping every five minutes to take a picture. As has been stated before many have thought and wondered about doing a project of this magnitude. I'm sure you have inspired many wanting to fallow in your foot steps.

[ClydesdaleKevin]

Outstanding!!!   

I can't wait to hear how she runs and moves under her own power...and read about your maiden voyage!

SWEET!!!

Kev

[Wantawinnie]

Man can't thank you enough for taking the time to bring us along on this amazing adventure. It's challenging enough doing the work without stopping every five minutes to take a picture. As has been stated before many have thought and wondered about doing a project of this magnitude. I'm sure you have inspired many wanting to fallow in your foot steps.

Thanks LJ, it actually motivates me to document the process and have some moral and technical support. It hasn't been the easiest job and there are steps that could have been done differently or easier I am sure. Hopefully, in the end, it will be a realiable and efficient family adventure rig. 

[Wantawinnie]

Outstanding!!!   

I can't wait to hear how she runs and moves under her own power...and read about your maiden voyage!

SWEET!!!

Kev

Trust me, I am quite anxious for that day to come as well. 

[LJ-TJ]

The way you've gone about it is the right way and lets face it hindsight is always 20/20. Aside from a little tweeking once you get her up and running I think your going to be the envy of all us old gas pushers. Now step back take a look at all you've accomplished, have a couple of cold ones, take a deep breath duck your head,lean your shoulder into er and go for it and get-er-done.>GRIN<

[ssapmoc]

I'm a new member and just joined because of your taking on this project. I just bought a 1982 Itasca 30 footer with a chevy 454 and turbo 400 from a friend that has had it since new. It's my first RV and I want to do this on mine now. It only has 47,000 miles on it and I am following your thread every day for updates. You should be very proud of the vision you have and the commitment you have placed in it. WOW!!! I'm so impressed how you made this happen. I want to ask you like a million questions. I have a 1995 Dodge Ram 4X4 with a 5.9 and auto trans with 225,000. It may become my donor vehicle for this amazing project. I can't wait for you to start it up and give us the details. Thank You for sharing this with us. I may be pulling on your hear soon.

[Wantawinnie]

Welcome to the site!

Got some good news and some bad news

Good news is I got the fuel lines bled, finished a few wiring details, cranked over the starter and she came to life.    I tested the pull stop cable and it shut down immediately. Fired it back up and it was idling with 40 psi for oil pressure.

Bad news is I must be getting air in the line somewhere or possibly the fuel pump is weak as it quit after running nicely for a minute or so.     I am guessing it ran the fuel filter dry and shut down.  I've got to get fluid in the transmission before running it more so I might just try running it off a small fuel can and see if there is air getting in the lines going to the tank. It was late so I called it a day but it was sweet for about a minute.

P.S. Since it technically ran I changed my profile from 440 to Cummins.

[Froggy1936]

Congratulations!!  Houston We Have IGNITION !!! Frank

[LJ-TJ]

Hot Dam, Now ain't that SPECIAL. WOW! Are you going to be able to get your chest through the door. CONGRATULATIONS  She's going to need a little tweaking but that's to be expected. WOW fantastic.Well Done. :)rotflmao

[ClydesdaleKevin]

IT LIVES!!!  MUHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!

Had to add in the Frankenstein reference there... :)rotflmao

Now get it tweaked and let us know the road results already...

Kev

[ssapmoc]

Way to go. I bet that one minute of running time made it feel like you just landed on the moon. Congratulations " Cummins" you did it and I'm smiling from ear to ear for you. I think we all were holding our breath as you turned the key. Don't sweat the air leak it's gonna be something simple to find with a little soapy water in a spray bottle. I so excited for you I will not be able to sleep tonight. I think I crack open a beer to toast your victory. KUDOS to you!!! You Did it man.

[Wantawinnie]

Thanks guys, the feeling of joy is turning to frustration.

Pulled the feed line off the lift pump and it was bone dry. So I bought a new lift pump and running off a 5 gallon pail to isolate any air in the system. Still getting a bunch of air at the injectors and it won't fire. Hopefully, a mechanic friend of mine can come over to help this afternoon as it is hard to crank and crack injectors at the same time. Whatever you do don't run a diesel out of fuel. It sucks and is precisely what I was hoping to avoid.

I'll keep you posted.

[oilmaninpowell]

I didn't read the beggining of the story to closely. Are you familiar with this engine? Your probably more familiar than me. It does take a while to purge the air out of the pump and lines. Even when you prime the filter first. Once it hits that air bubble you just keep cranking steady. It takes about 26 seconds and then it will fire up.

[Wantawinnie]

Woo hoo, it's running again.

My friend came over and we bled it until nearly all the air was gone. Still wouldn't run but acted like it wanted to go. Turned out the idle adjustment was too low. Pulled back on the throttle lever and it finally fired off. Runs good but a little afraid to hook up the rear tank now. It won't run very far on a 5 gallon can though.