1984 454 Head gasket replacement

Stripe · July 18, 2014, 10:46 PM

New thread..

At any point will I have to turn the engine over when I replace the gaskets?

cncsparky · July 18, 2014, 11:20 PM

Fredric, how many miles on it? You might want to consider having the heads reconditioned while they are out. A good valve job, check guide clearance, etc. A good shop can also magnaflux the heads to check for cracks that can't be seen.

Rickf1985 · July 18, 2014, 11:22 PM

You are going to have to remove all of the brackets on the front of the engine since they are all bolted to the heads. I suggest you get a big box of the heavy duty zip lock freezer bags that you can write on. That way you can put all of the nuts and bolts from each component in a bag and label it.[/size]Here is what I had posted in the gear box. I didn't want it to go away. I will send you a pm with my phone number in case you have any questions.

DaveVA78Chieftain · July 18, 2014, 11:23 PM

Fredric, you do have the P30 service manual (available in members area) correct?[/size]Dave

Stripe · July 18, 2014, 11:23 PM

Dave, I do thanks.. Looking forward to putting my nose into it..Like I just posted on the toolbox, my fear is the rods n stretch, but dave and mike assure me no worries. So with that I am just going to make it fun.

This is the bit that makes it look intimidating...http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Victor-Reinz-Head-Gasket-Set/1984-Chevrolet-P30-Van/_/N-jcs6oZ8znn4?itemIdentifier=140763_208065_16652_

DaveVA78Chieftain · July 18, 2014, 11:27 PM

When you start it? W% Install the distributor?

QuoteThis is the bit that makes it look intimidating...

pfft - nuttin to it.

M & J · July 19, 2014, 08:47 AM

No Fred, you shouldnt turn the engine once begun.
Before you start, set the engine to Top Dead Center on the #1 cylinder and leave it.
It will make getting the dizzy back in very easy. Mark the location of the dizzy on the manifold and also the rotor position. That way you'll know where to put those bits back and will save time.

Rickf1985 · July 19, 2014, 08:55 AM

To answer your question on turning the engine it depends. Are you going to put in a new timing chain? You are going to have all of the brackets off of the front of the engine so now is the time to think about the water pump and timing chain. You will need to turn the engine to line up the timing gears. I usually clean out what I can out of the cylinders and then turn it over by hand to get the rest of the crap up to the top of each cylinder. I am guessing you are worried about top dead center for the distributor? That is not a big deal, you have everything you need right in front of you before installing the heads to get it set right. The piston is obvious, it will be at the top on two different strokes. You want the compression stroke. Watch the lifters for number one cylinder, when the piston is coming up they will be moving, you want them to both be in the down position. The other choice that you do not want is one lifter is on the way up and the other lifter is on the way down, they will both be up when the piston is up. This is the exhaust stroke. Once you have the piston at the top on the compression stroke then look at the timing mark which should be visible at this point facing up on the balancer wheel. If you do not have one there we will have to refigure this for #5 cylinder which I think is the cylinder for the mark on the bottom timing pointer.

Basically finding TDC for any cylinder is the same though. Piston up and valves closed.

GONMAD · July 19, 2014, 04:30 PM

Don't forget to take as many clear pics of everything related & defiantly change the timing chain! I've seen a scary amount of old 'PLASTIC' timing gear sets on these RV's for some reason. I NEVER trusted these or old worn linkbelt type setups. Also if you wind up removing the oil pan be sure to use a 'one piece' gasket & never have pan leaks again! I install them on everything I build now. Another thing regarding the timing, when the timing on the crank & cam gears dots are together the #1 piston is at the overlap cycle 180 degrees out from # 1 TDC firing position

cncsparky · July 19, 2014, 09:19 PM

A shop vac is helpful as it can suck up the old gasket material along with any fluids. It helps to clean out around the pistons, lots of old gasket will wind up in the oil valley and on top of the pistons. Use only the paper shop towels, lay a good layer in the lifter valley to ease cleanup.

Hahn007 · July 26, 2014, 08:18 PM

Doing a valve job only on a high mileage engine can lead to heavy oil consumption.

The piston rings that were once doing an adequate job of sealing will allow more blowby into the crank case and more oil up into the combustion chambers.

The reason is due to the fact that all of the engine parts gradually wear together. Doing a valve job without addressing the lower end will allow the valves to seal against there seats but the rings will leak.

MotorPro · July 28, 2014, 07:03 AM

Thats an old wives tail. Makes no sense what so ever.

Rickf1985 · July 28, 2014, 07:41 AM

I wouldn't say it is a wife's tale, I have seen it happen, but the motor is going to be giving symptoms of that problem before the heads are done. It is not going to just start smoking because of the higher vacuum.

MotorPro · July 28, 2014, 01:52 PM

unless you have burnt valve (at which time you are going to want to replace it) doing a valve job is not going to increase vacuum in a cylinder it will give better seat and decrease the chance of burning a valve. I have done several thousand valve jobs and not once has it ever caused an engine to burn oil. If an engine started burning more oil after a valve job it is because the people doing it screwed up the guides or seals when they did it and the tried to blame it on the fact that you didn't do the bottom end. As I said an old wives tail.

M & J · July 28, 2014, 03:40 PM

The kit he posted had valve stem seals but I'm not sure he's up to that (no offense my friend). Besides having to have a valve spring compressor fiddling with the keepers while holding tension on the springs can be daunting if you've never done it before, or had someone with you while it's being done. Those should be replaced since the gasket kit has them included.

Stripe · July 28, 2014, 04:04 PM

Quote from: oldrockandroller on July 28, 2014, 03:40 PM
The kit he posted had valve stem seals but I'm not sure he's up to that (no offense my friend).

None taken..

Stripe · July 30, 2014, 05:30 PM

Gasket set ordered, should be in today Wed, Jul 30th.

M & J · July 30, 2014, 06:54 PM

One small step for man. One giant leap for Stripe.

legomybago · July 31, 2014, 10:50 AM

Stripe will never surrender....

Stripe · July 31, 2014, 08:27 PM

It might be a long uphill fight, but no, I won't...

BTW, got the kit today, but in this heat, this job will be put off for a short bit.. Should cool off here in a week..

Rickf1985 · August 01, 2014, 08:30 PM

Rent a "C" type valve spring compressor. Then it is a one man job with no problems.

Stripe · August 03, 2014, 12:57 AM

Noted but not sure if I'm up to messing with springs.. Will look into it further..

M & J · August 03, 2014, 09:28 AM

You'll need to mess with the springs to change the valve stem seals - which is strongly recommended.

DaveVA78Chieftain · August 03, 2014, 11:28 AM

A short course in 454 valve work: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=igDKPVxPtccee

Dave

cncsparky · August 03, 2014, 12:36 PM

IMO, you will be ahead of the game if you take them to a machine shop to be refurbished while they are out. The shop can check for valve guide wear and the springs also.